Recently, Andrew Caillard MW attended a special tasting and dinner of old Australian wine vintages in Hong Kong. No one expected such a memorable experience. It was a night of ‘Aussie Madness’!
ANDREW CAILLARD MW
VINTAGE JOURNAL – AUSTRALIAN WINE THROUGH 30 BOTTLES –
HONG KONG, MARCH 2026
A TATTERED HISTORY OF AUSTRALIAN WINE THROUGH 30 BOTTLES
FROM THE AVERY COLLECTION (UK) AND OTHER SOURCES
Recently, Andrew Caillard MW attended a special tasting and dinner of old Australian wine vintages in Hong Kong. No one expected such a memorable experience. It was a night of ‘Aussie Madness’!
A Tattered History of Australian Wine Through 30 Bottles Looking back at history for clues about the future is not nostalgia; it is a way of learning. Reputations, good and bad, are achieved through track record. For instance, when compiling the Canon of Australian Wine for The Australian Ark, I looked for wines that marked waypoints in the story of winemaking and viticulture, using both history and experience for guidance. Every wine on the list had to stand for something tangible or relatable. Vintage by vintage, The Canon threads together the ambitions and successes of past generations while clearly showing a progression in technology and outlooks from 1792 to the present day. Many of the wines on the list are a distant memory – remembered by previous generations – or recalled through living memory. A recent Australian wine tasting and dinner in Hong Kong highlighted the fragmented nature of history and how outlooks are forged by experience and relationships. Perspectives are established by curiosity, effort, and engagement. Bristol wine merchant John Avery MW (1941–2012) was a regular visitor to Australia and judged at many wine shows throughout his professional career. With an enlightened view, he championed the cause of many new world wines from California, New Zealand, and Australia, while distributing some of the finest European wines in the UK. This would lead to a peripatetic life and a network of friends all around the world. It would also translate to a cellar filled with treasures from all corners of the wine universe. According to John Avery’s son, Richard, “John was not a natural businessman. Like many in the wine trade, what he loved was the wine itself, and he was lucky enough to have been brought up with constant access to some of the world’s finest, including some legendary bottlings. The Averys were famous for blurring the line between the company’s stocks and their own personal cellars.” The June 2024 wine auction was headlined A Legacy Preserved: The Last Treasures of the Avery Collection . Christie’s wine auctioneer Noah May described John Avery’s stone-vaulted cellar in Somerset as ‘like a library
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The Vintage Journal – Australian Wine Through 30 Bottles
that documents changes in wine consumption over the past century’. The 2024 catalogue, the second tranche of the Avery Collection, comprised around 6000 bottles from all over the world, including Bordeaux, Champagne, Burgundy, California, New Zealand, and Australia. The Australian section, a rounding error when compared to the volume of French wine offered, was like reading an extra chapter to the 1987 Max Lake Auction sale in Sydney, which comprised a wonderful catalogue of Australian wines from a previous era. There was some overlap. One of the star listings was a bottle of 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Kalimna Shiraz (£6,875 sale price), arguably the most famous bottling in Australian wine history. A 12-bottle collection of 1990 Henschke Hill of Grace (£8,750) was also offered in the sale. But the winning lots for this evening were primarily off the beaten track, bringing another lens to the story of Australian wine. This special Australian wine gathering, organised by Chris Aarons (a patron of The Australian Ark ) was attended by a group of wine friends, including Adam Bilbey, David Wainwright, Linden Wilkie, Tim Tiptree MW, and Eddie McDougall, all of whom have an interest and curiosity in Australian wine. The very tatty-looking line-up of bottles was mostly sourced from the Avery Collection, with some extras being brought along as a contribution to the evening. This included a few bottles acquired from James Halliday’s cellar via Langton’s. The remarkably calm sommelier Jean Baptiste Copot prepared, uncorked, and served old bottles comprising the famous and obscure. Astonishingly, almost all of the wines were in good condition, with only two corked bottles and around three or four wines either oxidised or well past their best. While the damp conditions had slowly eroded labels, the cold temperatures and consistent humidity in John Avery’s cellar must have preserved the corks and prolonged the longevity of the wines. In addition, the fill levels in the bottles were mostly above very high shoulder or into the neck. The few bottles from Halliday’s cellar were in great condition, too. A brilliant hit rate.
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The List 1954 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Old Paddock Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales (oxidised) 1954 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Old Paddock Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales 5 1958 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant P & OP Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales 4 1960 Penfolds Bin 49 Grange Hermitage South Australia 5 1963 Mildara Cabernet Shiraz Coonawarra – South Australia 5 1965 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Philip Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales 5 1966 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Philip Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales 5 1966 Tyrrell’s Vat 10 Dry Red (Shiraz) Hunter Valley – New South Wales (overdeveloped) 2 1969 Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon South Australia (corked) 1971 Leasingham Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec Clare Valley – South Australia 4 1972 Penfolds Bin 128 Shiraz Coonawarra – South Australia 4 1975 Leasingham Bin 49 Cabernet Sauvignon Clare Valley – South Australia 3 1975 Brand’s Laira Private Bin Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra, South Australia (volatile) 1978 Leasingham Bin 49 Cabernet Sauvignon Clare Valley – South Australia 3
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1978 Brown Brothers Koombahla Individual Vineyard Cabernet King Valley – Victoria (overdeveloped)
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1979 Hardy’s Nottage Hill Shiraz South Australia
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1980 Lindeman’s St George Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra – South Australia 1980 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River – Western Australia (corked) 1980 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River – Western Australia
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1982 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra South Australia
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1984 Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales
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1985 Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz Great Western – Victoria 1987 Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz Great Western – Victoria
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1987 Yarra Yering Dry Red No 1 Cabernet Sauvignon Yarra Valley – Victoria
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1998 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra – South Australia
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2000 Craiglee Shiraz Sunbury – Victoria 2008 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange South Australia
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2024 EJ McDougall Chardonnay Margaret River – Western Australia
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This was by no means an exhaustive list, but a fascinating postscript to Australia’s modern wine history. The story centres primarily on the Hunter Valley and Coonawarra, with cameo appearances from other parts. When the Second World War ended in 1945, it took a while for Australia to get back on its feet. A return of soldiers from theatres of war and the influx of European immigrants rapidly changed expectations and led to a more cosmopolitan lifestyle. A wine and food culture, previously confined to a small section of the community, became an increasingly important part of Australian life. On account of post First World War policy and an increasing reliance on fortified wine production, the Hunter Valley had become a centre of fine winemaking. Maurice O’Shea’s ramshackle Mount Pleasant winery, fully acquired by McWilliam’s in 1941, was getting back on its feet after running into severe financial difficulty. But the wines produced by Maurice O’Shea (1897–1956) had been highly valued by Melbourne and Sydney’s wine elite, who championed his genius throughout the 1930s, ’40s, and ’50s. Regarded by many as the father of the modern Australian wine industry, his wines, comprising single-vineyard, multi-vineyard, and multi- district blends, were at the forefront of experimentation and innovation. He labelled his fine wines after individual vats, vineyards, friends, and relations. O’Shea made a succession of beautiful wines, many of which were single-cask offerings and, therefore, of very limited production. The 1929 Grandmother, 1937 Mountain A, 1939 Mountain C, 1944 Mountain D, 1942 Henry I, 1945 Henry II, 1947 Henry III, 1942 Pinot Hermitage, 1952 Pinot Hermitage, 1952 Prince, and 1954 Richard all have been written about. Max Lake describes many of these wines as ‘great, beyond imagining’. By 1954, Maurice O’Shea was struggling with his health. The 1954 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Old Paddock Hermitage (Shiraz) represents one of his last bottlings. While not as famous as the 1954 Richard, it is an example of Maurice O’Shea’s single-vineyard, varietally labelled wines. The shiraz vines, which still survive as centenarians today on their own roots, were planted in 1921.
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Many of us around the table thought the 1954 Old Paddock Hermitage could be mistaken for a mature Grand Cru Burgundy. The vines were nearly 35 years old in 1954, and Maurice O’Shea was at the height of his powers as a winemaker. But perhaps most importantly, this wine shows just how spectacular Hunter Valley Shiraz can be, both in style and versatility. 1954 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Old Paddock Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales 5 Medium crimson in colour. Beautiful strawberry apricot aromas with hints of polished leather and geosmin. Supple and lacy in structure with ample strawberry, stone fruit, roasted walnut flavours, chalky textures, lovely mid-palate viscosity, well-integrated minerally acidity, and lovely light tannin plume. At the peak of its development, but remarkably fresh and complex. A single vineyard Shiraz. Aged in large oaken vats. By 1958, Maurice O’Shea’s successor, Brian Walsh, was making the wines at Mount Pleasant. In 1952, he had taken up a position as assistant chemist at McWilliam’s Sydney headquarters, but after receiving a diploma from Sydney Technical College in 1954, he transitioned to winemaking. In early 1956, Brian Walsh was tasked with helping the ailing Maurice O’Shea complete vintage. Given the role of Mount Pleasant winemaker later that year, he was supported by Don McWilliam over the next few vintages. Having been dumped into the deep end, Brian Walsh carried on the winemaking tradition at Mount Pleasant with great technical skill. Lying in the shadow of Maurice O’Shea, his light did not shine so brilliantly, but this sequence of wines between 1958 and 1966 show the fidelity of vineyard site, while highlighting the calibre of his winemaking. A cold, damp cellar has kept these wines in a remarkable state. Brian Walsh was always recognised locally, but his contribution to the story of Australian wine should be more widely recognised. The 1958 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant P & OP Hermitage would have comprised a parcel of pinot noir from the Old Hill Vineyard and shiraz from the Old Paddock Vineyard. The 1921 pinot noir and shiraz plantings can be directly traced back to James Busby’s 1832 importation. These are probably the oldest surviving pinot noir vines in the world as well. The genetic material was sourced from Clos Vougeot. Its proprietor,
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Monsieur Ouvrard, was also the owner of the Romanée-Conti vineyard. In addition, this vineyard is the originator (via the CSIRO Merbein) of the famous MV6 clone, which is the foundation of many of Australia’s great contemporary pinot noir wines. The Old Hill Vineyard also comprises shiraz plantings that were established by a previous owner, Charles King, in 1880. While the Old Paddock Vineyard is four decades younger, the two neighbouring vineyards comprise some of the oldest surviving pre-phylloxera shiraz vines in Australia. 1958 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant P & OP Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales 4 Medium-deep colour. Attractive redcurrant, apricot, polished leather, wet bitumen, slightly oxidised aromas with a hint of volatility. Slinky- textured and generous with remnants of primary fruits (but mostly tertiary, savoury in taste), loose-knit chalky tannins, very good mid- palate volume, and underlying roasted walnut/toffee notes. A touch past its best, but still drinking well. At the inaugural Maurice O’Shea Award ceremony in 1990, Max Schubert said, ‘Maurice O’Shea did so much to convince us who followed him that it was possible to make an internationally competitive table wine and a lasting one at that’. By 1960, the Penfolds Grange project was back on track. Over the previous three years (1957, 1958, and 1959), chief winemaker Max Schubert had been making Grange in secret. Influential advisors to top management at Penfolds had criticised the style as being port-like and a step too far. From a historical perspective, it had been a collision of generational forces. Max Schubert’s ideas were innovative and advanced, reflecting observations of European practices and the successes of other winemakers, including Maurice O’Shea. While table wine consumption was growing, Penfolds was still predominantly making fortified and sparkling wines at the time. But the success of the 1955 Grange, which appeared on the Australian wine show circuit during 1959, proved that outlooks and opportunities were rapidly progressing in new directions. Underpinned by ground-breaking science, particularly the use of pH meters to monitor wine stability, Max Schubert incorporated traditional winemaking techniques (i.e., submerged cap fermentation) with
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Emerging from 10 years of experimentation, Grange Hermitage began its fully fledged commercial journey with the release of the 1960 vintage, which was labelled variously as Bin 45, Bin 49, and Bin 95. Typically, Max Schubert would incorporate a soupçon of cabernet sauvignon to add phenolic torque. At the time, the plantings of cabernet sauvignon were extremely limited in South Australia, much less than had been available in the 1890s. But in 1945, Penfolds had acquired the valuable Kalimna Vineyard on the western edge of the Barossa Valley, including the now famous 1888 Block 42 plantings. The 1960 Grange Hermitage comprises around 8% of this material. Most of the parcels of shiraz grapes come from vineyards that have since been pulled up because of expanding populations and urban development. Morphett Vale, once belonging to the Southern Vales, is now a suburb of Adelaide, and Magill Estate, the home of Penfolds, is now a postage-stamp vineyard compared to its glorious past. 1960 Penfolds Bin 49 Grange Hermitage South Australia 5 Deep crimson in colour. Lovely complex espresso, choco-berry aromas and flavours with panforte, roasted almond, wax polish notes, plentiful chocolaty textures, superb mid-palate volume, and fresh, persistent quartz acidity. All the elements are in perfect symmetry, highlighting both the beginning and the endurance of a timeless signature style. Based on Magill Estate, Morphett Vale, and Kalimna Vineyards. Bottled 10/11/1961. Foil capsule over metal capsules. Embossed shoulder ‘Penfolds’. Very badly bin-soiled labels, fragile, damaged. Levels base of neck. 12.8% alc The story of Max Schubert’s ‘secret’ or ‘hidden’ Granges created a wine industry fable of overcoming the odds that would propel Grange Hermitage into the fine wine stratosphere. innovative new practices, including completing fermentation in new American oak hogsheads. But after the project was officially terminated by top management in 1956, improvisation and the use of seasoned oak barrels was required.
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1963 was a memorable South Australian vintage, but overshadowed from an historical perspective by the previous year’s success. The 1962 Penfolds Grange Hermitage and the legendary 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A attracted enormous attention within the wine community and beyond. But the latter wine, and its sister Bin 60, a reverse blend, helped put Coonawarra on the map. While the region was established in 1890, its progress was hampered by distance and economic headwinds. Owen Redman, who should be credited for the region’s survival, once said, ‘From 1890 to 1945 you can write failure across the face of Coonawarra’. New investment during the 1950s and 1960s and a trend to cooler expressions of red wine led to significant plantings of cabernet sauvignon on terra rossa soils. Wynns Coonawarra Estate, created by David Wynn in the early 1950s, made its first Cabernet wine in 1954. The release of the Woodley’s Treasure Chest series of wines, combined with the beautiful packaging design by Wytt Morro, further garnered interest in the potential of the region. Lindeman’s, Penfolds, Mildara, and others acquired land and existing vineyards during the early 1960s. The 1963 Mildara Cabernet Sauvignon became one of the most famous wines of the period, winning the nickname Peppermint Pattie on account of its minty aromas and flavours. The exact provenance of the wine is meant to be 100% Coonawarra, but various recollections suggest that other material from McLaren Vale or Reynella was included. Even so, the wine – apparently aged in seasoned Limousin oak hogsheads – blitzed the Australian wine show circuit. Having tasted the wine on various occasions, I have not seen a good example in many years. Christie’s catalogued 1963 Mildara Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz as the more famous Peppermint Pattie, but this is a lesser-known sister wine, which has probably outlasted its sibling by a considerable distance. Having been stored in cold conditions, the wine was preserved very well. The minty notes, common to both releases, were still clearly present but the density and character of the fruit, not to mention the overall freshness, made a much better marriage. Being a touch cynical, I would not be surprised if the wine was bolstered with some McLaren Vale shiraz, as the mid-palate possessed a generous chocolaty roundness. Coonawarra Shiraz was typically lighter and more claret-like at the time.
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1963 Mildara Cabernet Shiraz Coonawarra – South Australia 5 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh, minty cassis, herb garden aromas with roasted walnut notes. Fine-grained and buoyant on the palate with ample blackcurrant, praline, herb garden flavours, some cedar-like notes. Finishes chalky and minerally. Beautiful richness and flow with mintiness giving extra length and freshness. In very good condition. While Coonawarra was on the cusp of an investment boom, the Hunter Valley was also enjoying momentum. A run of good vintages had primed demand, while relatively small quantities available contributed towards profitability. In 1963, Dr Max Lake planted his Lake’s Folly Vineyard, describing his adventure as opening a Pandora’s box. Vineyard plantings were accelerating at pace. Increasingly, wineries were bringing in wine from other parts to supplement their production, sometimes not labelling origin correctly. This state of affairs would not last, but for now, this Wild West economy offered optimism and excitement. Nineteen sixty-five was a particularly important Hunter Valley vintage and best remembered by the fabulous 1965 Lindeman’s Bin 3100 and Bin 3110 ‘Hunter River Burgundies’, so described because of their suppleness and velvety textures. (A bottle of Bin 3110 appeared in the Avery sale, but not at our table!) The fame of these two wines overshadowed the imaginative work of other winemakers, particularly McWilliam’s and Tyrrells. In addition, New South Wales was experiencing a second year of drought. Increasing plantings and variable expertise would also lead to mixed results. McWilliam’s was increasing its production of red wine and relying increasingly on its vineyards along Broke Road. The 1946-planted Rosehill Vineyard and Hundred Acre Vineyard were an important part of its expansion. The 1965 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Phillip Hermitage, a multi-vineyard blend comprising roughly 5% pinot noir, was one of the early releases of this series. Showing their patriotic deference to the Mother Country, and reflecting society’s attitudes of the time, McWilliam’s labelled their wines after members of the Royal Family (Elizabeth Hunter River Riesling and Phillip Hermitage were the most famous, but Margaret, Anne, and Charles also made an appearance. Mercifully, no Andrew.). The label
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blurb also erroneously claims that Hermitage originally came from Persia and that the variety was known as petite syrah in the Rhône Valley! From a historical perspective, durif, also known as petite syrah, was probably first brought into Australia by François de Castella in 1908 and widely planted in Rutherglen, Victoria. According to a 1969 article in The Bulletin, the Mount Pleasant wines were increasingly extremely hard to find, with the company keeping a backlog of vintages to further prolong ageing prior to release. While Maurice O’Shea’s legacy was assured, a shortage of Hunter Valley reds was probably engineered to maintain the mythology and currency of Mount Pleasant. The newly minted 1965 Philip Hermitage, a general blend, derived from estate parcels as well as material from the Hundred Acre and the 1946-planted Rosehill Vineyard. Described as ‘big wines’ at release, they have evolved into medium-bodied and expressive Hunter Valley Reds. At the time ‘sweaty saddle’, a phrase coined by Len Evans (hard to imagine him ever riding a horse), was a popular description
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of regional style. In hindsight, it is probably a conflation of characters derived from basalt soils and/or Brettanomyces . Although Max Schubert was experimenting with new (and widely available) American oak by this time, most Australian winemakers and drinkers found the taste of new oak in wine unpalatable. It was typical for new oak flavours to be ‘treated’ and neutralised before being used as a maturation vessel. The release of 1965 Philip Hermitage was met with some controversy, with many followers believing it ‘not to have the flavours of the Hunter Valley’. But Len Evans was adamant that this abundantly tannic wine harked back to some of the great Hunter vintages – especially 1947: ‘not a wine to drink now and one that will last years’. Well, he was not wrong. Sixty years later, it was looking very good. 1965 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Philip Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales 5 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh evolved black cherry, praline, hint of marzipan, wax polish. Inky textured with sinuous black cherry, dark chocolate, leathery flavours, attractive mid-palate richness and supple fine chalky/lacy tannins. A light velvety finish with persistent sweet fruit notes. Still showing primary fruit definition and buoyancy. The tannins have filigreed down to a lacy structure. 95% shiraz, 5% pinot noir. Aged in a combination of vats and seasoned oak hogsheads for two years. Remarkable. When released, the 1966 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Philip Hermitage also garnered conflicting reviews, with one writer describing its ‘sweaty saddle’ characters. From experience, I wasn’t expecting anything special, but the wine was completely transcendent. I would rate it alongside Bin 3100 as one of the greatest Hunter reds of the era, despite Phillip not being regarded at the time as a top-of-the-line wine. According to Len Evans ( The Wine Buyer 1968–1971 ), the 1966 was even bigger than the 1965. Predicting its future, he wrote, ‘I am quite confident that it will become one of the classic wines of Australia ... it will undoubtedly live for twenty years.’ Sixty years on, this bottle was in perfect condition, no doubt aided by previous cellaring conditions.
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1966 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Philip Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales 5 Medium-deep crimson. Beautiful apricot, crème brûlée, dried roses, leafy aromas and flavours with superb mid-palate viscosity and volume, fully resolved loose-knit/lacy textures, and well-integrated acidity. A classic peacock’s tail at the finish. Perfumed and still beautiful to drink. Described accurately by Adam Bilbey as ‘Autumnal’. No obvious sign of Brettanomyces , although a hint of rusticity. One of the most memorable wines in this line-up. About 96% shiraz, 4% pinot noir. The mystery and magic of aged wine. Tyrrell’s was also a significant name in the Hunter Valley. By the 1960s, Murray Tyrrell had taken over the family property Ashman’s and was stridently taking the family business into the modern era. Arguably, he would become the most famous vigneron in the region during the following years. His high profile, determination, and belief that every successive Hunter vintage was a great year brought him the reputation of being the ‘Mouth of the Hunter.’ Under his watch, Tyrrell’s became a reference for fine wine. Along with McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant, he pioneered the modern Semillon style. More famously, he introduced 1971 Vat 47 Pinot Chardonnay and began new directions for this variety (which was first brought into New South Wales in 1832). But in the early 1960s, red wine remained at centre stage. While its historic holdings were significant at the time, the family-owned Tyrrell’s now possesses the largest acreage of 19th and early 20th century direct-producing vineyards in the Hunter Valley. It owns some of the oldest surviving vitis vinifera vines in the world (shiraz: 1867, 1879, 1892, 1921, 1923, 1927; semillon: 1908, 1933; and chardonnay: 1908). In 1966, most of Tyrrell’s vineyards were ‘scattered over a square mile or so of the extinct volcanoes and outcrops in the foothills of the Brokenback and some on the alluvial flat on the north-east side of Broke Road’. Since the death of Dan Tyrrell in 1959, Murray Tyrrell had made efforts to improve and expand his white wines, with some critics believing he had neglected his reds. But the prolonged drought of 1964–1966 had, according to Dr Max Lake, ‘brought the wine full circle to the old round, soft flavour typical of the Tyrrell style’. Having read several narratives, it seems Hunter Reds from the early 1960s were more lightly framed, but the drought had led
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to much bigger and better wines. 1966 Tyrrell’s Vat 10 Dry Red was still holding up quite well, but was more advanced than the previous Mount Pleasant bottlings. Still, the concentration and depth suggested that the wine had been strong and flavourful at youth. Nonetheless, the sweaty saddle aromas and ‘Band-Aid’ characters were pronounced. 1966 Tyrrell’s Vat 10 Dry Red (Shiraz) Hunter Valley – New South Wales 2 Medium-deep crimson. Earthy, walnut, wet bitumen, leather, pondwater aromas with elevated medicinal/Band-Aid notes. Better in taste, but over-advanced and soupy. Not quite as bad as the notes suggest, but definitely past! From 1964 to 1969, Max Schubert was attempting to emulate his Grange success with Cabernet Sauvignon. With assets like Block 42 at Kalimna and vineyard blocks in Coonawarra, it was hoped that a breakthrough would be made. But 1969 was the last Bin 707 made, until the release of the 1976 vintage. While it was possible to make high-quality Cabernet, the performance of vineyards was quite variable. Unfortunately, the 1969 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon was corked. It was never considered a great vintage, but Chris Aarons had tasted another bottle some months before and thought it was terrific. In the latest Penfolds Rewards of Patience , Edition 9, I report ‘that it comes from a poor wet vintage and hasn’t lasted’. It just goes to show the lottery that comes with age and cellaring conditions! 1969 Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon South Australia Corked. A pity! Rated as a lesser vintage. The mid-to-late 1960s were golden years and saw a return of Australia’s fine wine scene (which had almost disappeared by the 1920s). Investment in new vineyards was beginning to flow across the country, with a fine wine scene rapidly emerging. Brown Brothers, d’Arenberg, Coriole, Henschke, Lakes Folly, Leo Buring, Lindeman’s, McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant, Moss Wood, Penfolds, Chateau Tahbilk, Tyrrell’s, Vasse Felix, Wirra Wirra, Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Yalumba, Yarra Yering, and others appeared as leading marques during the 1970s. But at this point of the tasting, we entered a purple patch. Yet the decade comprised many brilliant wines, including the famous 1971 and 1976
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Penfolds Grange, 1976 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1978 Lindeman’s Limestone Rodge Cabernet Shiraz. Also, Wolf Blass won the Jimmy Watson Trophy three times in a row for his 1974, 1975, and 1976 Black Label Cabernet Shiraz wines. In the Clare Valley, Leasingham, Leo Buring, Sevenhill, and Quelltaler were probably the most renowned commercial names, although the historic Wendouree winery and its 19th-century plantings were well known to insiders. Jim Barry (notwithstanding a history going back to 1959), Taylors Wines, and Tim Adams – arguably the best-known brands in the Clare Valley today – were yet a feature in the early 1970s market. According to wine writer James Halliday ( The Australian Wine Compendium , 1984), the 1971 Leasingham Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec was regarded by many as ‘among the top dozen Australian red wines made in the period 1966 to 1976’. The series had been introduced as a result of a visit to the winery after the 1970 vintage by Max Schubert, who purchased large amounts of bulk wine on behalf of Penfolds from Leasingham. Impressed by the Malbec, he had chastised Mick and Tim Knappsetin with the comment, ‘The trouble with you blokes is you don’t blend enough; you don’t experiment enough’. The 1971 Leasingham Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec was the second release from this series and coincided with a very high-quality Clare Valley vintage. 1971 Leasingham Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec Clare Valley – South Australia 4 Deep crimson. Blackberry, dark chocolate, graphite wax polish aromas with leathery, farmyard notes. Still buoyant and supple with ample dark berry, dark chocolate, some advanced leathery/walnut notes and loose-knit, touch gravelly. Dries out a touch at the finish with some spicy/leafy notes. Very much a claret style. In 1984, James Halliday noted that ‘undoubtedly it will not improve, but equally undoubtedly it is still at its peak’. While definitely past its best, the wine was still holding up and attractive to drink. Surprising. 75% cabernet sauvignon, 25% malbec. Despite the soiled label, the 1972 Penfolds Bin 128 Shiraz was in great condition. In the latest ROP 9th edition, I wrote, ‘Comparable to Bin 28, it is a popular, collectible wine and often out-performs expectations as a medium-term drinking wine. The wine is a singular Penfolds style because of its regional transparency derived from vine age, classic terra
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rossa soils and the swinging effect of the weather.’ Nonetheless, most wines from this era are past their best, but 1972 was a very good Penfolds year and prime cellaring conditions preserved the wine brilliantly. 4 Medium crimson. Typical red cherry, redcurrant aromas with roasted walnut, hint praline notes. Fresh, well concentrated and sweet-fruited with ample red berry fruits, some dark chocolate notes and plentiful chalky textures, medium-bodied claret style. In near-perfect condition. Looks much younger than its label date! 1972 Penfolds Bin 128 Shiraz Coonawarra – South Australia After seeing the Penfolds Bin 49 Grange, it was odd encountering another Bin 49 under the Leasingham label. The series first kicked off with the 1967 vintage and was varietally labelled as cabernet sauvignon even though it comprised malbec or shiraz in the blend. James Halliday (1984) described the multi-gold-winning 1975 (Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide, Perth) as rich, complex, and with strong American oak, and the 1978 as, ‘quite outstanding, with excellent varietal definition and form, cool/ varietal cabernet evident on a long palate with a lingering finish’. 1975 Leasingham Bin 49 Cabernet Sauvignon Clare Valley – South Australia 3 Medium-deep crimson. Lifted blackcurrant, black cherry, earthy aromas with bush garrigue notes. VA evident on the nose. Inky deep with ample evolved dark berry fruits, earthy, leafy complexity, fine chalky/grainy textures, superb mid-palate volume and richness. Finishes firm with saline notes, 90% cabernet sauvignon, 10% malbec. Flawed but holding. Past its peak. 1978 Leasingham Bin 49 Cabernet Sauvignon Clare Valley – South Australia 3 Medium-deep crimson. Well-developed wine with ample dark chocolate, stone fruit, aromas and flavours with mineral/graphite/ petrichor notes. Well advanced and claret in style with fresh, slinky, touch leafy textures, very good mid-palate volume and underlying bittersweet/ chinotto notes. Dusty dry finish. 95% cabernet sauvignon, 5% shiraz (imported by Averys & Co, of Bristol, on the label).
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Brown Brothers Koombahla Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon became a well-known fine wine around Australia and overseas during the 1970s and 1980s. The vineyard, owned by the Darling family and located at Whitfield in the haunches of the Australian Alps (Upper King Valley), was named after a magnificent heritage-listed Koombahla tree ( Eucalyptus mannifera ssp mannifera , also known as a Brittle Gum). This spectacular corner of north-eastern Victoria is one of the most beautiful landscapes in the world. Brown Brothers continues to be one of Australia’s most important family wine companies, with an enlightened generation of women in leadership roles. Meanwhile, the 1970-established Koombahla Vineyard continues to yield fruit for the Darling Estate Wines and other local wineries. 1978 Brown Brothers Koombahla Individual Vineyard Cabernet Upper King Valley – Victoria 1 Medium-deep colour. Lifted, slightly prickly red cherry, black olive, meaty aromas and flavours. Voluminous, chocolaty and leafy with the volatility becoming more pronounced in the glass (imported by Walter Siegel, London, UK). Disappointing. I was surprised to find a commercial Hardy’s Nottage Hill Shiraz in this line-up and hardly expected it to perform. During the 1970s, Hardy’s moved away from the bottom end of the market to concentrate on the more premium sector. This wine was probably made primarily at Hardy’s Tintara winery in McLaren Vale. The bottle was clearly a sample, brought in by the Australian Forwarding Agency, so presumably this belonged to a stash of bottles for assessment by Averys of Bristol. In any other cellar, this wine might have fallen over already, but this was not the case. (This belonged to a lot comprising the above Koombahla Cabernet and a 1975 Laira (Coonawarra) Private Bin Shiraz Cabernet (which was poured but had turned to vinegar!). 1979 Hardy’s Nottage Hill Shiraz South Australia 4 Medium crimson. Surprising fruit-driven wine with strawberry, red cherry/kirsch/Black Forest-like aromas. Moderately concentrated but smooth and unbroken with attractive fruit development and slinky long textures. Very good freshness, complexity and flow. Who would have thought?
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The Vintage Journal – Australian Wine Through 30 Bottles
The 1980 Lindeman’s St George Cabernet Sauvignon was one of the most successful show wines of the era. Together with the success of 1976 Limestone Ridge Cabernet Shiraz, it spearheaded the reputation of Coonawarra as Australia’s premium Cabernet Sauvignon region during the 1980s. But it also marked the end of cane pruning at Lindeman’s and the beginning of a lacklustre period. The 1980 vintage was subsequently criticised for its shaded fruit character, although the leafy characters still give remaining bottles a real character of place, and it remains a great wine of the time. In contrast, 1980 Chateau Reynella Coonawarra Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon scored more highly than the 1980 St George in the preliminary classes of the Jimmy Watson Trophy, yet no one remembers it today. The last time I enjoyed the 1980 St George was with the late and great Stephen Spurrier, who came around for dinner one night in Sydney with his lovely wife, Bella. He described it in his memoirs as ‘rich and spicy with a long way to go’. Although it has received mixed reviews during its show career (from rooster to feather duster), I think this is one of the very great wines of the era. The capsicum notes pervade throughout, but it adds freshness and an out of this world complexity. The bottle looked in terrible condition, but the wine was glorious and exactly as remembered. And, of course, I thought of Stephen, who was always brilliant company and seemingly completely unaware of his fame. 1980 Lindeman’s St George Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra – South Australia 5 Medium-deep crimson. Beautiful pure cassis, capsicum, hint marzipan aromas and flavours with walnut praline notes and hints of herb garden, classical fine-grained slightly al dente /leafy tannins, very good mid-palate volume and a long finish. A classic, beautiful Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. Included in The Australian Ark ’s Canon of Australian Wine. A brace of 1980 Margaret River Cabernets (Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon and Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon) was served next, with the Cullen being corked and completely out of condition. But judging by the colour and sheen of the liquid, it would have been darned good. The 1980 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon was still in fine condition. This series of single estate Cabernet Sauvignon has been a star performer in the Australian wine auction market and continues to attract significant support from
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fine-wine aficionados and collectors. The 1980 Special Reserve, the same wine with extra barrel ageing, won the Montgomery trophy at the Adelaide Wine Show and a trophy for the best local red at the Perth Wine Show. The 1980 vintage marked a transition period at Moss Wood. It was the second year that Keith Mugford worked for Dr Bill Pannell as winemaker at the estate. This would lead to Keith and Clare Mugford acquiring Moss Wood in 1985. 1980 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River – Western Australia Corked. 1980 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River – Western Australia 5 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh and evolved crème de cassis , praline, roasted chestnut, hint of tobacco leaf, sage aromas and flavours, lovely mid-palate richness/complexity, and underlying cedar/ al dente /firm tannins. Sturdy and claret-like with very good density and vigour. John Wade’s new ‘essence of Coonawarra’ vision, 1982 Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, was revolutionary for the time and set a new standard. This ground-breaking 1982 Cabernet Sauvignon created huge excitement when released. Based on older blocks of Coonawarra terra rossa vineyards, the wine possessed a concentrated richness of flavour and ripeness rarely seen before in Coonawarra wines. There was conjecture at the time that the wine had a high proportion of drainings, which accentuated volume and density. While the bottle looked disgracefully dishevelled, the contents were superlative, again highlighting past cellaring conditions. Winemaker John Wade had previously asked for more investment in new oak, and this wine was a beneficiary of 100% new-oak maturation. The ageing potential of this wine was immediately recognised and its performance to date has more than fulfilled those expectations. This style of winemaking foreshadowed ripe and generous expressions of Coonawarra Cabernet. This has been exquisitely implemented by longstanding winemaker Sue Hodder and her team in more recent times.
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The Vintage Journal – Australian Wine Through 30 Bottles
The 1982 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon is also included in The Australian Ark ’s Canon of Australian Wine. 1982 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra – South Australia 5 Deep crimson. Pure blackcurrant pastille, dark chocolate/praline, roasted chestnut aromas with herb garden sage notes. Beautifully concentrated, inky deep, and chocolaty with ample cassis, dark chocolate, espresso flavours, plentiful fine-grained tannins, superb mid-palate richness, and underlying cedar notes. Glorious and complete. When I saw the 1984 Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Hermitage being poured, I almost fell off my chair! While studying at Roseworthy Agricultural College, I worked as a cellar rat at Brokenwood in the Hunter Valley. For around 10 weeks, I lived and worked at the winery, renowned for its weekends of revelry. Looking back at the experience, I was steered into a direction that would eventually place me where I am today, but not without the snakes and ladders of life. Iain Riggs AM, who is now retired from Brokenwood, professionalised winemaking and established Brokenwood as a big Hunter Valley name. The winery was founded by lawyers James Halliday AM, John Beeston, and Tony Albert in the late 1970s. The partnership expanded, but James Halliday left around 1984 to pursue his dreams in the Yarra Valley. Recently, I was with Iain Riggs, in Macau, judging at the Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards. If I had known that this dinner was going to be so extra special, Iain would have been with us. When tasting the 1984 Graveyard Hermitage, all the memories flowed back: running through spider webs between vineyard rows, tractors getting bogged, picking grapes, stomping ferments, shovelling out grape skins, the cricket match against Rothbury, early morning bacon and egg rolls, and ‘seeing’ so many great vintages. What a life! I am completely into this. When I told Iain Riggs that we had opened a bottle of 1984 Graveyard Vineyard Hermitage, he assumed that it would be stuffed, as was mostly his experience. But it wasn’t! While it was well developed, the wine still had freshness and vitality. I think Iain would have been amazed too.
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1984 Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales 4 Medium-deep crimson. Polished leather, choco-berry aromas with herb garden earthy lift. Medium-bodied and grainy/savoury with strawberry, blackberry earthy flavours, some wet bitumen notes. A lacy tannin plume at the finish. Very nice. From James Halliday’s cellar. Seppelt Great Western in Central Victoria was best known for its sparkling wine production during the 1970s and 1980s, despite its offering of high- quality table wines, especially St Peter’s Vineyard Shiraz. Its 1984 Salinger was a ground-breaking release, but its Sparkling Burgundies, rebadged Sparkling Shirazes, were a beloved, albeit eccentric staple enjoyed by Australian wine lovers. At the time, Ian McKensie, known by everyone as Macca, was chief winemaker. These two Show Sparkling Shirazes, served at the beginning of dinner, were in exceptionally fine condition. From James Halliday’s cellar and brought along by David Wainwright. 1985 Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz Great Western – Victoria 5 Deep crimson. Beautiful pure black cherry, dark plum, sweet fruit, earthy aromas with wax polish, leather tones. Richly flavoured and generous with ample dark berry, dark chocolate, touch early flavours, supple lacy textures and attractive mineral length – carried by a light persistent effervescence. Slight sweetness at the finish. Very good. 1987 Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz Great Western – Victoria 4 Medium-deep crimson. More developed than the 1985, with red cherry, earthy, leafy aromas and flavours, and plentiful peppery nuances. Generous and well concentrated but more rigid on the palate, giving a sense of tightness. Finishes leafy firm at the finish. Fine bubbles give creaminess and lengthen the palate. Seems drier than the 1985. Still delicious and refreshing to drink. While not remembered as a great vintage, the 1987 Yarra Yering Dry Red No 1 Cabernet Sauvignon was exemplary, highlighting Dr Bailey Carrodus’ meticulous and quirky style. According to Adam Bilbey, who worked vintage some years back, this wine included some parcels of merlot and malbec. In a wine show setting, a wine of this calibre would be sidelined because of the wine tending to be a touch green and sappy. But I found it very evocative and charming.
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The Vintage Journal – Australian Wine Through 30 Bottles
1987 Yarra Yering Dry Red No 1 Cabernet Sauvignon Yarra Valley – Victoria 3 Medium-deep crimson. Exaggerated cassis, Americano aromas with tea leaf, tobacco notes. Expressive palate with concentrated blackcurrant pastille, chinotto, green-pepper flavours and sappy textures giving density and vigour. Richly flavoured with lovely volume and character. Winemaker Sue Hodder has been the long-term custodian of Wynns Coonawarra Estate wines. She and viticulturalist Allen Jenkins, now retired, oversaw great changes in the vineyard during the 1990s and 2000s, with vineyard performance making a great difference to wine quality. 1998 was a classic growing season where the cabernet grapes ripened to perfection. 1998 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra – South Australia 5 Medium-deep crimson. Beguiling and youthful in this company. Classical blackcurrant pastille, praline aromas with hints of sage/herb garden. Generously concentrated and inky deep with lovely volume/ richness and underlying mocha, roasted almond marzipan notes. A sleek graphite finish. Wonderful. I haven’t tasted a Craiglee Shiraz for many years. The winery was first established in 1863, but winemaking stopped by the 1920s. A discovery of a bottle of 1872 Hermitage, hidden in the Bluestone winery walls, inspired Pat Carmody to replant and recommence winemaking. While 2000 is not remembered as a great vintage, I found the wine just wonderful. It was in absolute perfect condition, showing lovely purity and cool-climate expression. 2000 Craiglee Shiraz Sunbury – Victoria 5 Medium crimson. Pure blackberry fruits with white pepper, brambly notes. Buoyant, supple and sweet fruited on the palate with evolved dark berry hint demi-glace flavours with some chocolaty nuances, plentiful chalky textures, lovely mid-palate density/volume and underlying pepper notes. Lovely.
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Having worked on the 9th edition of the Penfolds Rewards of Patience book intermittently for over two years, I feel very familiar with the history and progress of winemaking. The 2008 vintage is a great year for Grange. I can see this wine cellaring for another 50 years at least, and perhaps enjoyed at a dinner somewhere, in Hong Kong, or London, or Sydney, by a new generation of wine people looking to the past for inspiration. 2008 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange South Australia 5 Deep crimson. Classical blackberry/blackcurrant/dark chocolate aromas and flavours with hints of wax polish. Chocolaty textured and dense with abundant dark berry/praline fruits and well-integrated new oak notes. Still unfolding, but an impressive vintage. 98% Shiraz, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, and Magill Estate (Adelaide). Last, but not least, was a bottle of 2024 EJ McDougall Chardonnay, based on the Gin Gin clone, from Margaret River, which was brought along by winemaker Eddie McDougall as a pre-quencher! I had recently seen it at a blind tasting some days before against some prominent white Burgundies in Macau, and it performed well. Sourced from a single vineyard down near Witchcliffe at the southern end of Margaret River, it can easily sit alongside some of the more famous names. Eddie McDougall has a great small team working with him, including the highly intuitive and 5 Pale colour. Classical pure grapefruit nougat aromas and flavours with lovely waxy complexity, superb volume, some mid-palate creaminess emerging and persistent al dente textures. Finishes crispy with tonic water notes. experienced winemaker Lilian Carter. 2024 EJ McDougall Chardonnay Margaret River – Western Australia As mentioned before, there were some wines that were disappointing. A first bottle of 1954 Mount Pleasant Old Paddock Hermitage was oxidised, a 1975 Brand’s Laira Cabernet Shiraz was volatile, and a 1980 Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon was corked. But the quality and condition of the wines, rather than the labels, turned out much better than anyone expected. The group described the evening as ‘Aussie Madness’. And it was.
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The Vintage Journal – Australian Wine Through 30 Bottles
The list of wines was not exhaustive, but it really showed how brilliant older vintages of Australian wines can be. I was especially astonished by the 1966 McWilliam’s Philip Hermitage as it has never been on my radar, even though it was well regarded at the time. I have heard the expression ‘Nostalgia is not a strategy’ (coined recently by the Canadian Prime Minister, Mark Carney) a few times over the past weeks within Australian wine industry circles. With a decline in consumption and some serious problems to resolve, it is timely to remember that looking back through history can create inspiration and cause reflection. It was a reminder that we have unique landscapes and a wonderful track record of ambition and great winemaking. The Hunter Valley and Coonawarra featured greatly in this line-up. While not as fashionable as they once were, this line-up of old vintages showed that both regions can produce wonderful and exciting age-worthy medium-bodied red wines. Andrew Caillard MW March 2026
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Bibliography Caillard, A. (2025). The Australian Ark , Vols 2 & 3. Longueville Media & The Vintage Journal Caillard, A. (2026). Penfolds Rewards of Patience, 9th Edition . Longueville Media & Penfolds Halliday, J. (1985). The Australian Wine Compendium . Harper Collins, Sydney Evans, L. (1968–1971). The Wine Buyer (bound monthly publications). Self-published Lake, M. (1966). Classic Wines of Australia . Jacaranda Press, Sydney Lake, M. (1970). Hunter Winemakers . Jacaranda Press, Sydney Cellarmaster column, Bulletin Magazine (2nd August 1969), Sydney Christies.com
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