This was by no means an exhaustive list, but a fascinating postscript to Australia’s modern wine history. The story centres primarily on the Hunter Valley and Coonawarra, with cameo appearances from other parts. When the Second World War ended in 1945, it took a while for Australia to get back on its feet. A return of soldiers from theatres of war and the influx of European immigrants rapidly changed expectations and led to a more cosmopolitan lifestyle. A wine and food culture, previously confined to a small section of the community, became an increasingly important part of Australian life. On account of post First World War policy and an increasing reliance on fortified wine production, the Hunter Valley had become a centre of fine winemaking. Maurice O’Shea’s ramshackle Mount Pleasant winery, fully acquired by McWilliam’s in 1941, was getting back on its feet after running into severe financial difficulty. But the wines produced by Maurice O’Shea (1897–1956) had been highly valued by Melbourne and Sydney’s wine elite, who championed his genius throughout the 1930s, ’40s, and ’50s. Regarded by many as the father of the modern Australian wine industry, his wines, comprising single-vineyard, multi-vineyard, and multi- district blends, were at the forefront of experimentation and innovation. He labelled his fine wines after individual vats, vineyards, friends, and relations. O’Shea made a succession of beautiful wines, many of which were single-cask offerings and, therefore, of very limited production. The 1929 Grandmother, 1937 Mountain A, 1939 Mountain C, 1944 Mountain D, 1942 Henry I, 1945 Henry II, 1947 Henry III, 1942 Pinot Hermitage, 1952 Pinot Hermitage, 1952 Prince, and 1954 Richard all have been written about. Max Lake describes many of these wines as ‘great, beyond imagining’. By 1954, Maurice O’Shea was struggling with his health. The 1954 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Old Paddock Hermitage (Shiraz) represents one of his last bottlings. While not as famous as the 1954 Richard, it is an example of Maurice O’Shea’s single-vineyard, varietally labelled wines. The shiraz vines, which still survive as centenarians today on their own roots, were planted in 1921.
Hong Kong, March 2026
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