that documents changes in wine consumption over the past century’. The 2024 catalogue, the second tranche of the Avery Collection, comprised around 6000 bottles from all over the world, including Bordeaux, Champagne, Burgundy, California, New Zealand, and Australia. The Australian section, a rounding error when compared to the volume of French wine offered, was like reading an extra chapter to the 1987 Max Lake Auction sale in Sydney, which comprised a wonderful catalogue of Australian wines from a previous era. There was some overlap. One of the star listings was a bottle of 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Kalimna Shiraz (£6,875 sale price), arguably the most famous bottling in Australian wine history. A 12-bottle collection of 1990 Henschke Hill of Grace (£8,750) was also offered in the sale. But the winning lots for this evening were primarily off the beaten track, bringing another lens to the story of Australian wine. This special Australian wine gathering, organised by Chris Aarons (a patron of The Australian Ark ) was attended by a group of wine friends, including Adam Bilbey, David Wainwright, Linden Wilkie, Tim Tiptree MW, and Eddie McDougall, all of whom have an interest and curiosity in Australian wine. The very tatty-looking line-up of bottles was mostly sourced from the Avery Collection, with some extras being brought along as a contribution to the evening. This included a few bottles acquired from James Halliday’s cellar via Langton’s. The remarkably calm sommelier Jean Baptiste Copot prepared, uncorked, and served old bottles comprising the famous and obscure. Astonishingly, almost all of the wines were in good condition, with only two corked bottles and around three or four wines either oxidised or well past their best. While the damp conditions had slowly eroded labels, the cold temperatures and consistent humidity in John Avery’s cellar must have preserved the corks and prolonged the longevity of the wines. In addition, the fill levels in the bottles were mostly above very high shoulder or into the neck. The few bottles from Halliday’s cellar were in great condition, too. A brilliant hit rate.
Hong Kong, March 2026
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