1963 Mildara Cabernet Shiraz Coonawarra – South Australia 5 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh, minty cassis, herb garden aromas with roasted walnut notes. Fine-grained and buoyant on the palate with ample blackcurrant, praline, herb garden flavours, some cedar-like notes. Finishes chalky and minerally. Beautiful richness and flow with mintiness giving extra length and freshness. In very good condition. While Coonawarra was on the cusp of an investment boom, the Hunter Valley was also enjoying momentum. A run of good vintages had primed demand, while relatively small quantities available contributed towards profitability. In 1963, Dr Max Lake planted his Lake’s Folly Vineyard, describing his adventure as opening a Pandora’s box. Vineyard plantings were accelerating at pace. Increasingly, wineries were bringing in wine from other parts to supplement their production, sometimes not labelling origin correctly. This state of affairs would not last, but for now, this Wild West economy offered optimism and excitement. Nineteen sixty-five was a particularly important Hunter Valley vintage and best remembered by the fabulous 1965 Lindeman’s Bin 3100 and Bin 3110 ‘Hunter River Burgundies’, so described because of their suppleness and velvety textures. (A bottle of Bin 3110 appeared in the Avery sale, but not at our table!) The fame of these two wines overshadowed the imaginative work of other winemakers, particularly McWilliam’s and Tyrrells. In addition, New South Wales was experiencing a second year of drought. Increasing plantings and variable expertise would also lead to mixed results. McWilliam’s was increasing its production of red wine and relying increasingly on its vineyards along Broke Road. The 1946-planted Rosehill Vineyard and Hundred Acre Vineyard were an important part of its expansion. The 1965 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Phillip Hermitage, a multi-vineyard blend comprising roughly 5% pinot noir, was one of the early releases of this series. Showing their patriotic deference to the Mother Country, and reflecting society’s attitudes of the time, McWilliam’s labelled their wines after members of the Royal Family (Elizabeth Hunter River Riesling and Phillip Hermitage were the most famous, but Margaret, Anne, and Charles also made an appearance. Mercifully, no Andrew.). The label
14
The Vintage Journal – Australian Wine Through 30 Bottles
Powered by FlippingBook