of regional style. In hindsight, it is probably a conflation of characters derived from basalt soils and/or Brettanomyces . Although Max Schubert was experimenting with new (and widely available) American oak by this time, most Australian winemakers and drinkers found the taste of new oak in wine unpalatable. It was typical for new oak flavours to be ‘treated’ and neutralised before being used as a maturation vessel. The release of 1965 Philip Hermitage was met with some controversy, with many followers believing it ‘not to have the flavours of the Hunter Valley’. But Len Evans was adamant that this abundantly tannic wine harked back to some of the great Hunter vintages – especially 1947: ‘not a wine to drink now and one that will last years’. Well, he was not wrong. Sixty years later, it was looking very good. 1965 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Philip Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales 5 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh evolved black cherry, praline, hint of marzipan, wax polish. Inky textured with sinuous black cherry, dark chocolate, leathery flavours, attractive mid-palate richness and supple fine chalky/lacy tannins. A light velvety finish with persistent sweet fruit notes. Still showing primary fruit definition and buoyancy. The tannins have filigreed down to a lacy structure. 95% shiraz, 5% pinot noir. Aged in a combination of vats and seasoned oak hogsheads for two years. Remarkable. When released, the 1966 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Philip Hermitage also garnered conflicting reviews, with one writer describing its ‘sweaty saddle’ characters. From experience, I wasn’t expecting anything special, but the wine was completely transcendent. I would rate it alongside Bin 3100 as one of the greatest Hunter reds of the era, despite Phillip not being regarded at the time as a top-of-the-line wine. According to Len Evans ( The Wine Buyer 1968–1971 ), the 1966 was even bigger than the 1965. Predicting its future, he wrote, ‘I am quite confident that it will become one of the classic wines of Australia ... it will undoubtedly live for twenty years.’ Sixty years on, this bottle was in perfect condition, no doubt aided by previous cellaring conditions.
16
The Vintage Journal – Australian Wine Through 30 Bottles
Powered by FlippingBook