1984 Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales 4 Medium-deep crimson. Polished leather, choco-berry aromas with herb garden earthy lift. Medium-bodied and grainy/savoury with strawberry, blackberry earthy flavours, some wet bitumen notes. A lacy tannin plume at the finish. Very nice. From James Halliday’s cellar. Seppelt Great Western in Central Victoria was best known for its sparkling wine production during the 1970s and 1980s, despite its offering of high- quality table wines, especially St Peter’s Vineyard Shiraz. Its 1984 Salinger was a ground-breaking release, but its Sparkling Burgundies, rebadged Sparkling Shirazes, were a beloved, albeit eccentric staple enjoyed by Australian wine lovers. At the time, Ian McKensie, known by everyone as Macca, was chief winemaker. These two Show Sparkling Shirazes, served at the beginning of dinner, were in exceptionally fine condition. From James Halliday’s cellar and brought along by David Wainwright. 1985 Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz Great Western – Victoria 5 Deep crimson. Beautiful pure black cherry, dark plum, sweet fruit, earthy aromas with wax polish, leather tones. Richly flavoured and generous with ample dark berry, dark chocolate, touch early flavours, supple lacy textures and attractive mineral length – carried by a light persistent effervescence. Slight sweetness at the finish. Very good. 1987 Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz Great Western – Victoria 4 Medium-deep crimson. More developed than the 1985, with red cherry, earthy, leafy aromas and flavours, and plentiful peppery nuances. Generous and well concentrated but more rigid on the palate, giving a sense of tightness. Finishes leafy firm at the finish. Fine bubbles give creaminess and lengthen the palate. Seems drier than the 1985. Still delicious and refreshing to drink. While not remembered as a great vintage, the 1987 Yarra Yering Dry Red No 1 Cabernet Sauvignon was exemplary, highlighting Dr Bailey Carrodus’ meticulous and quirky style. According to Adam Bilbey, who worked vintage some years back, this wine included some parcels of merlot and malbec. In a wine show setting, a wine of this calibre would be sidelined because of the wine tending to be a touch green and sappy. But I found it very evocative and charming.
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The Vintage Journal – Australian Wine Through 30 Bottles
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