Many of us around the table thought the 1954 Old Paddock Hermitage could be mistaken for a mature Grand Cru Burgundy. The vines were nearly 35 years old in 1954, and Maurice O’Shea was at the height of his powers as a winemaker. But perhaps most importantly, this wine shows just how spectacular Hunter Valley Shiraz can be, both in style and versatility. 1954 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Old Paddock Hermitage Hunter Valley – New South Wales 5 Medium crimson in colour. Beautiful strawberry apricot aromas with hints of polished leather and geosmin. Supple and lacy in structure with ample strawberry, stone fruit, roasted walnut flavours, chalky textures, lovely mid-palate viscosity, well-integrated minerally acidity, and lovely light tannin plume. At the peak of its development, but remarkably fresh and complex. A single vineyard Shiraz. Aged in large oaken vats. By 1958, Maurice O’Shea’s successor, Brian Walsh, was making the wines at Mount Pleasant. In 1952, he had taken up a position as assistant chemist at McWilliam’s Sydney headquarters, but after receiving a diploma from Sydney Technical College in 1954, he transitioned to winemaking. In early 1956, Brian Walsh was tasked with helping the ailing Maurice O’Shea complete vintage. Given the role of Mount Pleasant winemaker later that year, he was supported by Don McWilliam over the next few vintages. Having been dumped into the deep end, Brian Walsh carried on the winemaking tradition at Mount Pleasant with great technical skill. Lying in the shadow of Maurice O’Shea, his light did not shine so brilliantly, but this sequence of wines between 1958 and 1966 show the fidelity of vineyard site, while highlighting the calibre of his winemaking. A cold, damp cellar has kept these wines in a remarkable state. Brian Walsh was always recognised locally, but his contribution to the story of Australian wine should be more widely recognised. The 1958 McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant P & OP Hermitage would have comprised a parcel of pinot noir from the Old Hill Vineyard and shiraz from the Old Paddock Vineyard. The 1921 pinot noir and shiraz plantings can be directly traced back to James Busby’s 1832 importation. These are probably the oldest surviving pinot noir vines in the world as well. The genetic material was sourced from Clos Vougeot. Its proprietor,
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The Vintage Journal – Australian Wine Through 30 Bottles
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