The 1980 Lindeman’s St George Cabernet Sauvignon was one of the most successful show wines of the era. Together with the success of 1976 Limestone Ridge Cabernet Shiraz, it spearheaded the reputation of Coonawarra as Australia’s premium Cabernet Sauvignon region during the 1980s. But it also marked the end of cane pruning at Lindeman’s and the beginning of a lacklustre period. The 1980 vintage was subsequently criticised for its shaded fruit character, although the leafy characters still give remaining bottles a real character of place, and it remains a great wine of the time. In contrast, 1980 Chateau Reynella Coonawarra Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon scored more highly than the 1980 St George in the preliminary classes of the Jimmy Watson Trophy, yet no one remembers it today. The last time I enjoyed the 1980 St George was with the late and great Stephen Spurrier, who came around for dinner one night in Sydney with his lovely wife, Bella. He described it in his memoirs as ‘rich and spicy with a long way to go’. Although it has received mixed reviews during its show career (from rooster to feather duster), I think this is one of the very great wines of the era. The capsicum notes pervade throughout, but it adds freshness and an out of this world complexity. The bottle looked in terrible condition, but the wine was glorious and exactly as remembered. And, of course, I thought of Stephen, who was always brilliant company and seemingly completely unaware of his fame. 1980 Lindeman’s St George Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra – South Australia 5 Medium-deep crimson. Beautiful pure cassis, capsicum, hint marzipan aromas and flavours with walnut praline notes and hints of herb garden, classical fine-grained slightly al dente /leafy tannins, very good mid-palate volume and a long finish. A classic, beautiful Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. Included in The Australian Ark ’s Canon of Australian Wine. A brace of 1980 Margaret River Cabernets (Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon and Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon) was served next, with the Cullen being corked and completely out of condition. But judging by the colour and sheen of the liquid, it would have been darned good. The 1980 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon was still in fine condition. This series of single estate Cabernet Sauvignon has been a star performer in the Australian wine auction market and continues to attract significant support from
Hong Kong, March 2026
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