Penfolds Grange, 1976 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1978 Lindeman’s Limestone Rodge Cabernet Shiraz. Also, Wolf Blass won the Jimmy Watson Trophy three times in a row for his 1974, 1975, and 1976 Black Label Cabernet Shiraz wines. In the Clare Valley, Leasingham, Leo Buring, Sevenhill, and Quelltaler were probably the most renowned commercial names, although the historic Wendouree winery and its 19th-century plantings were well known to insiders. Jim Barry (notwithstanding a history going back to 1959), Taylors Wines, and Tim Adams – arguably the best-known brands in the Clare Valley today – were yet a feature in the early 1970s market. According to wine writer James Halliday ( The Australian Wine Compendium , 1984), the 1971 Leasingham Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec was regarded by many as ‘among the top dozen Australian red wines made in the period 1966 to 1976’. The series had been introduced as a result of a visit to the winery after the 1970 vintage by Max Schubert, who purchased large amounts of bulk wine on behalf of Penfolds from Leasingham. Impressed by the Malbec, he had chastised Mick and Tim Knappsetin with the comment, ‘The trouble with you blokes is you don’t blend enough; you don’t experiment enough’. The 1971 Leasingham Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec was the second release from this series and coincided with a very high-quality Clare Valley vintage. 1971 Leasingham Bin 56 Cabernet Malbec Clare Valley – South Australia 4 Deep crimson. Blackberry, dark chocolate, graphite wax polish aromas with leathery, farmyard notes. Still buoyant and supple with ample dark berry, dark chocolate, some advanced leathery/walnut notes and loose-knit, touch gravelly. Dries out a touch at the finish with some spicy/leafy notes. Very much a claret style. In 1984, James Halliday noted that ‘undoubtedly it will not improve, but equally undoubtedly it is still at its peak’. While definitely past its best, the wine was still holding up and attractive to drink. Surprising. 75% cabernet sauvignon, 25% malbec. Despite the soiled label, the 1972 Penfolds Bin 128 Shiraz was in great condition. In the latest ROP 9th edition, I wrote, ‘Comparable to Bin 28, it is a popular, collectible wine and often out-performs expectations as a medium-term drinking wine. The wine is a singular Penfolds style because of its regional transparency derived from vine age, classic terra
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The Vintage Journal – Australian Wine Through 30 Bottles
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