Margaret River Guide 2024

This eJournal explores the history and making of Margaret River with reviews for over 200 wines.

ANDREW CAILLARD MW & ANGUS HUGHSON

VINTAGE JOURNAL – REGIONAL FOCUS –

MARGARET RIVER 2024

CONTENTS

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Beginnings

1 3 3 5 6 8

Houghton Clone Gingin Clone Transmission The Way It Was

Ignition Take Off

10 11 13 13 15 20 21 22 22 24 25

Collectability New Standards Sustainability Accountability Authenticity People Power

Scale

Chardonnay

Cabernet Sauvignon / Blends

Shiraz

Tasting Notes

Digging soil pits at the Vasse Felix Karridale Idée Fixe vineyards

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Beginnings According to First Nations people, the Margaret River area, the Land of the Saltwater People (Wadandi Boodja), is one of the oldest places of human occupation on the Australian continent. Evidence suggests that people from the Noongar Nation were living at Devil’s Lair cave as far back as 48,000 years ago. The story of European settlement only begins in the early 19th century, and Margaret River first appeared as a place name in 1839, some 10 years after the foundation of the Swan River Colony, the nascent beginning of Western Australia. Cuttings from vines originally given to the Sydney Botanical Gardens by Gregory Blaxland and James and William Macarthur accompanied the first settlers in 1829 and were planted in a makeshift botanical garden. Over the following years, a small cottage wine industry emerged around the Perth township, which gained city status in 1859. The Swan River became an important wine-growing region after the 1860s with the influx of new settlers and wealth. The establishment of Houghton’s (1859), on the banks of the Swan River, began a more serious wine industry, which took advantage of new technologies and ambitions associated with the emergence of the British Empire and the development of the Western Australian economy. Throughout the first half of the 20th century, the State’s wine industry centred on the Swan River wine region. Although the modern Margaret River wine industry was only established in 1967 with the planting of the Vasse Felix vineyard by Dr Tom Cullity, the story of Margaret River wine predates this important landmark year. The success of the region is based on colonial vinestock material that can be traced back to the early 19th century. While it is true that some of this material arrived from the Cape Colony (South Africa), notably chenin blanc, vignerons, including Charles Ferguson of Houghton’s, looked at other sources to buy grapevines. During the 1860s, economic botany to sustain communities and create wealth was a major preoccupation for colonial administrations. By this

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time, the science of viticulture was in full swing, with some important books published, notably Jules Guyot’s Culture de la Vigne et Vinification , which was translated into English and published in Melbourne in 1861. Previously, Letters on the Culture of the Vine, Fermentation, and the Management of the Wine in the Cellar (1844) by Maro (the pen name of William Macarthur) was extensively published through the colonial press. Dr AC Kelly’s 1861 The Vine in Australia: Its Culture and Management was considered by many vignerons as a seminal work on growing and making wine in Australia. During the 1860s, Cape Colony wine was regarded by observers, including Kelly, as being inferior, and most vignerons with ambitions to make quality wine looked for better available vinestocks.

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Houghton Clone Among those was Dr John Ferguson of Houghton Vineyard, who reportedly sourced his vinestock from Leschenault and South Australia. In addition to his Swan River vineyard near Perth, his property on the banks of the Preston River, near present day Bunbury, comprised 14 acres and a large fruit garden. The Houghton clone of cabernet sauvignon, which has played a significant impact on the character and identity of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon; however, it is generally thought to be of South African origin. Although difficult to fully disprove, I think the provenance is quite different. There is enough anecdotal evidence to suggest the first cabernet sauvignon cuttings and Houghton material came to Western Australia from the east coast. There is also further mystery surrounding the original source of cuttings. Although it is certain they derived from 1950s plantings at Houghton Vineyard, Jack Mann said that this vineyard was planted with cuttings from the 1930s Frenchman’s Block vineyard. No one knows its whereabouts, or who the Frenchman was. Although the provenance is challenged, the Houghton clone of cabernet sauvignon has played a massive part in the development of the Margaret River. Every important estate in this wine region possesses this material, much of it sourced and shared between vignerons. Although Western Australia has larger plantings of SA125, and smaller plantings of newer French clones, the Houghton clone stands out as something quite special. I believe that it could derive from vinestock material originally planted by William Macarthur at Camden, via South Australia and Leschenault, or directly. Much like the Reynell Selection of South Australia, the Houghton clone is of low vigour and produces low-yielding fruit with very small berries. This translates to wines of beautiful aromatic complexity, very good density, fine-grained tannins, and tension. Gingin Clone Margaret River’s Gingin clone chardonnay is also steeped in 19th century origins and can be traced back to plantings in Meursault, via California. The Vintage Journal ’s Leeuwin Estate eJournal explores this story in more

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detail. Most winemakers in the region credit Trish and Denis Horgan for sharing their success with the Gingin clone by distributing cuttings to vignerons in the region. It is this type of generosity during the pioneering years, collaboration, and support of newcomers which underpins the regional provenance of Margaret River Chardonnay. The wines, in general, possess a shared expression that has truly shaped Margaret River’s identity. The grapefruit aromatics, wonderful fullness on the palate, al dente textures, and indelible fresh acidities are often easily noticeable in blind tastings; this soaring personality and precision are hallmarks of the regional style. Combined, both of these heritage clones can be traced back to 19th century New World aspirations and contribute significantly to Margaret River’s success as one of Australia’s key ultra- fine wine regions.

Gingin Chardonnay

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Transmission The transmission of vine stock during the 19th century forms a pillar of Australia’s fine wine story. Although South Australia’s rich heritage is well known through its ancient surviving plantings, vine cuttings were frequently shipped around the Australian continent throughout the 1800s, before phylloxera arrived on Australia’s east coast, around 1875. Western Australia also initiated strong quarantine regulations and, through luck and good management, has never been exposed to phylloxera. Although it does not have South Australia’s glorious living heritage of ancient vinestock, there are still descendent vineyards which are related to importations of material from South Africa (chenin blanc) and Australia’s east coast. Although Margaret River’s wine industry did not get going until 1967, it should be remembered that vineyards were planted in Western Australia’s South West more than 100 years before. When we talk about modern pioneers, their achievements are built on the work of generations before them. Comparatively, however, wine growing has a short history compared to the existence of the region’s first inhabitants and the traditional owners of the land. The Bussells planted grape vines in the 1830s. Sam Moleri grew grapes, made wine and sold it door-to- door in Margaret River in the 1930s – he lived about five kilometres north of Vasse Felix. Ephraim Clarke, Kevin Cullen’s maternal grandfather, grew grapes and had a commercial winery near Bunbury earlier in the century. The Duces had a vineyard and winery near Boyanup, planted after the First World War, and sold wine in wine shops in Manjimup and Bunbury. I have tasted a beautiful Hermitage, by courtesy of Bill Jamieson, that was made at Houghton’s by Jack Mann in the fifties, from Duce’s Boyanup grapes. Indeed the obvious quality of this wine was a practical support to me in deciding that the effort to make quality wines in the cooler regions of the South West was worthwhile. Tom Cullity, vigneron, Vasse Felix, 1987.

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The Way It Was Ray Jordan and Peter Forrestal’s book The Way It Was is a well-researched narrative of Margaret River’s modern pioneers and winemaking history. I have referenced the authors’ observations in the forthcoming history of Australian wine, The Australian Ark . Vigneron Dr Thomas Cullity, who established the region’s first ‘commercial-scale’ winery Vasse Felix, was modest in assessing his contribution to the early beginnings of Margaret River. Already, by 1965, he had imagined making wine in the South West of Western Australia. And in 1966 he planted a small patch of vines at his brother-in-law’s property, Tynedale, three miles east of Roelands, near Bunbury. But after reading a report by Dr John Gladstones in the same year, and with the encouragement of Bill Jamieson and Jack Mann, he looked for suitable land further south, in Margaret River. In his search for an ideal site, he was greatly assisted by Dr Kevin and Di Cullen, who already owned a cattle property at Wilyabrup and had ambitions to plant a vineyard. They introduced him to their circle of friends and contacts who ‘could tolerate an eccentric idea’. This was largely because they all believed in the potential of Margaret River wine as well. In his memoir, written in 1987, Tom Cullity acknowledged that Bill Minchin had planted a small plot (half an acre) of grapevines at Vasse in 1966 (and made wine in 1970). He also recounted that he and his friend Della Livorno had helped Geoff Juniper to plant a small 1/2-acre vineyard at Wilyabrup. According to Dr John Gladstones, Dr Kevin Cullen had provided ‘intellectual input’ in the early development of viticulture and winemaking in the region, including this project. Dr Bill Pannell, who planted his Moss Wood vineyard in 1969 and produced wine in 1973, was also an important early pioneer and enjoyed prime-time success for his Cabernet Sauvignon, especially during the late 1970s. Although Tom Cullity is recognised for planting Margaret River’s first commercial vineyard in 1967, it is the collective effort that ultimately made the difference. This is an important point to make, because there are quite a lot of people who made significant contributions to the region’s early beginnings, some well known and others barely remembered. Ultimately, the success and reputation of the region have been shaped

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by imagination, collaboration, and visions small and great. The story of Margaret River is much bigger than the detail of who did what, and when. The roll call of family names include the Baxter, Burch, Cullity, Cullen, Devitt, Gherardi, Gregg, Hohnen, Holmes à Court, Horgan, McHenry, Pannell, Peterkin, Tate, Tomlinson, Watson, and Wright families. There are others, of course, including individuals who have made a significant difference to the outlook of Margaret River’s fine wine scene from the 1970s onwards.

Vasse Felix Restaurant

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Ignition Credibility to the cause of Margaret River wine was first achieved at successive Perth Wine Shows, when 1972 Vasse Felix Riesling won a gold medal and 1973 Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon achieved a similar result. Margaret River Riesling, Semillon, and Sauvignon Blanc also made successful appearances in both the Canberra and Perth wine shows during the late 1970s. These achievements, through the prism of hindsight, were commendable for their times, but the references have changed significantly since then. Around 1978, there were only a handful of winemakers with oenology qualifications. Among them were Bill Jamieson and Tony Devitt of the Western Australian Department of Agriculture, Bob Cartwright at Houghton’s (later at Leeuwin Estate), Dorham Mann at Sandalford (who planted vines at Wilyabrup in 1970), and Mike Peterkin at Cullen’s (later at Pierro). Technical expertise was shared, because that’s how pioneering communities work. This pattern of collegial support is one of the foundations of practically all of Australia’s wine regions through the earliest beginnings to the present day.

MARGARET RIVER Warm maritime/Mediterranean climate

Average Rainfall – 850–1200mm, mainly between May and September Latitude – 33º3’S to 34º22’S (Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin) Longitude – 114º58’E to 115º18’E (Cape Clairault to Gladstones Line) Surface Area – 27 x 100 kilometres = 2700 square kilometres Mean January Temperature – 20.6ºC Mean Growing Degree Days (Oct–Apr) – 1939 days Vintage takes place between the end of February and mid-April. A report published by scientist Dr John Gladstones in 1965 found that Margaret River had a similar climate to Pomerol or Saint-Émilion, with low frost risk, plenty of sunshine, and equable temperatures within seasons promoting even ripening.

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The climate is warm and maritime. The daily sea breezes during summer work like an air-conditioner and moderate temperatures. Extreme heat is very rare. An ancient crystalline bedrock formation sweeps down from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin, and is known as the Leeuwin Block. It is believed that this geological feature could be as old as 1,600 million years old. After the supercontinent Gondwanaland broke up through continental drift during the Cretaceous period (145–160 million years ago), an iron-enriched lateritic plateau formed over the bedrock, and the landforms were further shaped by weathering.

Soils Source Voyager Estate

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Take Off Interestingly, some wine producers from South Australia looked at possibly buying land in Margaret River in the 1970s and early 1980s. While researching material for Penfolds: The Rewards of Patience , I found correspondence and paperwork relating to the possible acquisition of land in the vicinity. Wolf Blass also famously investigated the region’s potential, after Cape Mentelle won the Jimmy Watson Trophy twice in a row. The region is, however, dominated by Western Australian family companies. That said, there is significant corporate interest in Margaret River, including LVMH’s acquisition of Cape Mentelle, and Treasury Wine Estate’s purchase of Devil’s Lair. Yalumba, no stranger to being involved in Western Australia – it established a winery in the Swan Valley during the 1930s – and Accolade Wines also produce Margaret River wines. The development of the region has been like a rolling stone. But it was during the 1980s that the fortunes of Margaret River Chardonnay In 1999 Dr John Gladstones proposed six sub-regions: Yallingup & Carbunup in the north, Wilyabrup and Treeton in the centre, Wallcliffe, which ribbons across the south, and Karridale in the far south. Vignerons and winemakers generally describe their vineyard locations in these terms. The well-draining soils derive primarily from granitic and gneissic ironstone, over which laterite has formed. Only 3% (6,000 hectares) of the 213,000 hectares of land that represent the Margaret River wine region is planted with vines. Around 46% is covered with native forest and the rest is mostly farmland and a few townships. Most of Margaret River’s vineyards lie on Forrest Grove type soils (with predominating iron stone gravels) or a combination of Forrest Grove and Mungite (sandy loams and gravels). The soils in Margaret River tend to merge, creating various transitional profiles and, as a consequence, vineyard sites all have their own individual characteristics. Vineyard elevations in the region range from around 3m to 140m. Most are found at elevations between 40m and 140m.

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and Cabernet Sauvignon truly gathered momentum. Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, the Jimmy Watson-winning Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon wines, and Moss Wood’s cult presence on the fledgling Australian secondary wine market established Margaret River as a new and exciting classic wine region. Much of this cut-through happened while I was working as a young wine auctioneer at Rushton’s, and then at Langton’s during the mid 1980s. The stock market crash of 1987, the weakening Australian dollar, and punitive import taxes also quarantined the wine industry from serious outside competition. More and more Australian collectors turned towards buying fine Australian wine. Trade in the secondary or re-sell markets, a very good indication of fine wine currency, showed consumer preferences. Although there were many emerging wineries (Tom Cullity suggests there were around 30 wineries in Margaret River in 1987), a few were beginning to attract significant attention. Collectability When we released our first Classification of Australian Wine in 1989, published in the 1990 Langton’s Wine Investment Guide , Margaret River featured quite prominently. (This was the prequel to the poster format, comprising 34 wines, that was released in 1991.) Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, and Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay [ sic ] were listed Grade A (later Outstanding). The first Classification listed ‘The Performers’ and included Leeuwin Estate reds as well, which highlights the secondary market popularity of Margaret River wines post 1986. Today, the first Classification looks imprecise, but it gives a very good idea of the sentiment at the time. Of course, while the market has changed over the last 30 years or more, these wines remain in the Classification, with Cullen Diane Madeline Cabernet (which became recognised in the 1990s), Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, and Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon sharing top ranking with Penfolds Grange, Mount Mary Quintet Cabernet Sauvignon, and others. In addition to these wines, other producers, including Cape Mentelle, Deep Woods, Howard Park (Lower Great Southern & Margaret River), Pierro, Vasse Felix, Voyager Estate, Woodlands, and Xanadu, are included in this

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Pierro 2020 Harvest Photo Credit Mark Boskell

benchmark listing of collectible Australian wines. There are also a few highly regarded Margaret River wines that probably have the potential for future listing or higher ratings. In this tasting review, I was impressed by many Margaret River wines that do not feature strongly on the secondary market. Larry Cherubino and Grayln Estate are very good examples of brands that have been successful in building their reputations elsewhere. Cloudburst recently launched its Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay on the prestigious La Place de Bordeaux and is one of a handful of Australian wines that are traded in the ‘Beyond Bordeaux’ category. This has not come unnoticed by collectors and observers of the secondary wine market. This type of positioning, pricing, and perceived success give significant brand momentum.

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New Standards All the same, we are now living in a period of tremendous change, where provenance has become more complicated. It is no longer just associated with bloodlines, ownership, and place. Sustainability, regenerative farming, and environmental accountability are becoming vastly important in Australia’s fine wine category. Although there is some flexibility today, consumers seem to be aligning to the values of sustainability and circularity at a rapid rate. Nearly 20 years ago, it was predicted that low-input (at a minimum), organic, and biodynamic principles would become defining features of Australian fine wine. Now, I think the fine wine community anticipates more. The anxieties associated with climate change, inheritance, living standards, and wellness have filtered into consumer decision making. Sustainability is the number one issue right now and, consequently, consumer expectations for a green future will almost certainly frame the fine wine agenda for years to come. Margaret River has been at the forefront of environmental awareness and sustainable agricultural practices for a long time though. The local population, comprising a large proportion of alternative lifestyle and greenie types, has played an important role in evolving ways of thinking. Traditional farmers in the region were slow off the mark, but the wine industry, which typically employs young people, was, at first, more enlightened and imaginative. Margaret River’s benign growing season, often free of disease pressure, also lends itself to low-input vineyard management. Netting, to protect the crop from bird damage, however, is a necessity, especially when it is a poor year for karri and marri blossoms. Sustainability Typically, approaches to viticulture and winemaking differ, but there is an increasingly strong focus on sustainable practices across Margaret River. The use of chemicals is declining considerably, as more and more vignerons adapt their ways of managing vineyards. The Margaret River Wine Association describes this movement as ‘light touch viticulture’. For some observers this trend is not going fast enough, but, realistically, the transition towards meaningful sustainable practices is happening.

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Ultimately, nature conservation, land care, and sustainable living have become a community issue, where people of all ages and walks of life are encouraged to participate. There are many wine producers who are demonstrating amazing leadership and foresight. Vanya Cullen is a leading pioneer and protagonist of biodynamic viticulture. She was early to adopt these practices developed by Rudolf Steiner. Her commitment to this way of growing grapes, once seen as extreme, could now be described as visionary. There seems to be a correlation between life in the vineyard and energy in Cullen wines. Although this cannot be proven by science (yet), the wines emit a feeling of place. But care of the land and ways of working towards sustainability cannot be defined by a single philosophy. The nature of learning and innovation promotes adaptation and new ways of thinking. Vasse Felix is on the way to becoming wholly organic, and the Lilliputian Cloudburst has taken its own hands-on approach to sustainability, borrowing from almost every book on the subject.

Cape Mentelle Photo Credit Russell Ord

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Cape Mentelle has taken another approach by embracing science, technology, and AI machine learning. Laser sensors are attached to machinery to chart biomass in the vineyard and ascertain bud numbers, potential canopy growth, and grape crop weight. Soil mapping, climatic data, ‘Growing Degree Days’, and block-by-block analysis are all overlain to establish patterns of vine growth. Data is run through an algorithm to provide a vineyard performance dashboard. It can be accessed by iPhone or iPad in the field and used to plan or direct vineyard operations throughout the vineyard cycle. Areas of poor vitality can be composted, while more vigorous vines can carry a heavier crop load. Vineyard blocks with low soil moistures can be given supplementary water while preserving this limited resource. Herbicides are not needed, and compaction of soils is limited through less vineyard pass-throughs. This also leads to a significant reduction in diesel fuel costs and increased attention to biodiversity and regenerative practices. Voyager Estate is also trialling similar technologies and practices, including the use of Go- Pro cameras and machine learning to predict yields and identify growing patterns in their vineyards. At Leeuwin Estate, regenerative agriculture is a strong focus. Of note, also, is its commitment to sustainability and conservation. The previously neatly managed vineyards have become a ‘mess’ of vine health, biodiversity, and energy, but the quality of fruit, as the wines attest, has progressed. Similar regenerative work at Howard Park has also led to positive results. Accountability Many producers are members of Margaret River Organic Wine or Sustainable Winegrowing Australia. The latter is supported by industry bodies Australian Grape and Wine, Wine Australia, and The Australian Wine Research Institute. Certification is a means of monitoring practices, ensuring fidelity of nurture and guaranteeing the integrity of the final product. Ultimately, membership or participation in these organisations is about accountability, but it does not mean that others are not taking a sustainable approach. Some vignerons may prefer to avoid certification because it doesn’t suit their ways of working. All the same, accreditation will eventually become an obligatory compliance in the fine wine

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market. Supermarkets and chain stores around the world are already moving in this direction and community expectations will continue this momentum. Many vignerons are transitioning towards certification through Sustainable Winegrowing Australia. At present, certified members account for 17% of the region’s vineyards, and this is expected to increase significantly over the next few years. SUSTAINABLE WINEGROWING AUSTRALIA – MEMBERS AND CERTIFIED MEMBERS, FEBRUARY 2024 3 Oceans Margaret River Vineyard Certified Member 2023 467 Twenty Four Road Certified Member 2021 Abbey Vale Certified Member 2023 Alan Rock Certified Member 2020 Altair Estate Certified Member 2021 Bantry Bay Certified Member 2012 Bramley Certified Member 2022 Brash Vineyard Certified Member 2020 Brushwood Brook Certified Member 2020 Bullant Estate Certified Member 2023 Calneggia Family Vineyards Certified Member 2009 Cape Mentelle Certified Member 2010 Celestial Bay Certified Member 2021 Churchview Estate Certified Member 2022 Corymbia Calgardup Vineyard Certified Member 2022 Credaro Family Estate Certified Member 2021 Deep Woods Estate Certified Member 2020 Devil’s Lair Vineyard Certified Member 2010 Domaine Naturaliste Wines Winery Certified Member 2010 Domaine Naturaliste Wines Vineyard Certified Member 2022 Forrest Vineyard Certified Member 2020 Georgettes Vineyard Certified Member 2020 Grace Farm Certified Member 2022

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Gunyulgup Estate Harmony Forest

Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member

2022 2020 2021 2010 2021 2017 2020 2020 2011 2023 2020 2021 2020 2023 2022 2020 2020 2020 2020 2021 2014 2020 2013 2021 2023 2022

Heytesbury Wine Group Vineyards

Howard Park - Margaret River Vineyards Jindawarra Vineyard Juniper Estate Vineyard

Kaards Vineyard

Karridale

Leeuwin Estate Vineyard

Lionel’s Vineyard Maggie’s Farm

Montgomery Vineyard

Oakfield Estate

Oldlands Vineyard Paganin Vineyard

Passel Estate Peccavi Wines Ridge Farm Rivenleigh Roje Estates

Rosa Park Vineyard

Saracen Estate

Sewards Vineyard Sirens Vineyard

Slab Hut

St Johns Vineyards - Yelverton Starcastle Investments - Ironstone, Yallingup Protea Farm, Bridgelands & Clairault

Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member

2009 2022 2020

Stella Bella Wines

The Gravels Vineyard

Margaret River

Thompson Estate

Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member Certified Member

2020 2013 2010 2010 2022 2012 2022 2012 2011 2012 2023 2020 2022 2023 2020 2021

Timber Creek Vineyard Victory Point Wines

Voyager Estate

Wayfinder Were Estate

Wildberry Springs Estate Woodman Vineyards

Xanadu Vineyard Dawson Wines

Member Member Member Member Member Member Member

Fermoy Estate Vineyard

Gibindee

Grand Vin Estate Hazels Vineyard Island Brook Estate

Jilyara (Willyabrup Estate)

Burnside Organics Photo Credit Russell Ord

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Little Creek Farm Redbrook Estate

Member Member Member Member Member Member Member Member

2023 2021 2022 2020 2020 2021 2020 2023

Rowe Rd

Septimus Vineyard Stormflower Vineyard Swings & Roundabouts

Wildberry Farm

Wylco

PUNCHING ABOVE ITS WEIGHT Only 12.3% of the vineyard area (720 hectares out of 5,840 hectares) in Margaret River is certified as organic or biodynamic. Many producers are in transition, and this percentage is expected to increase at an exponential rate. Also, there are other wineries employing initiatives to reduce their carbon emissions and improve their environmental footprint. Landcare and environmental stewardship are increasingly becoming an important

Jimmy Watson Trophy Winners Photo Credit Lauren Trickett

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feature of Australia’s fine wine agenda, and Margaret River is a leading protagonist for a sustainable future. This also includes recognition, collaboration, and support of local Wadandi people. Despite all of this, Margaret River is a small cog in the wheel, and only accounts for roughly 2% of the Australian grape crush, yet it punches well above its weight with the amount of show awards and trophies it achieves on the national wine circuit. According to wine merchant John Jens, one of Western Australia’s most distinguished wine experts, ‘Since 2014, the West has won 41 of the past 51 Best Cabernet Trophies. From memory only one of these Cabernet Trophies was from Great Southern – the rest being from Margaret River.’ Margaret River Chardonnay, up against a wealth of outstanding styles from eastern States, has also notched up some impressive results, accounting for almost half (49%) of trophies at national wine shows since 2014. In addition, there have been six (Melbourne Royal Wine Show/Awards) Jimmy Watson Trophy winners, all based on Cabernet Sauvignon.

JIMMY WATSON WINNERS 1982 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 1983 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 1997 Flametree Cabernet Merlot, Margaret River

Authenticity Margaret River’s reputation ultimately hinges on Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Although there are various selections and clones planted in the region, by far the most plentiful are based on Gingin chardonnay and Houghton Selection cabernet sauvignon. These special selections, based on 19th-century provenance, lead to wines of exceptional authenticity and an easily recognisable identity. The ripe grapefruit aromatics, generous mid palate, al dente textures, and precise fresh acidity are common features found in Margaret River Chardonnay. 2009 Joseph River Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 2014 Deep Woods Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 2016 Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River

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Equally, Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon evokes a keen scent of place. The fresh pure blackcurrant aromas, superb inky density, and vigorous structure are typical. Although medium-bodied, the flavours fill out the mid palate with varying levels of new oak, bringing nuanced complexity. Sub regional differences also bring further interest, particularly from a tannin structure point of view. (The cooler sites tend to be more vigorous in style.) People Power Individual viticulturalists and winemakers also play an important part in the Margaret River story. Although it is impossible to mention everyone, there are some prominent identities leading the fine wine agenda. Tim Lovett and David Winstanley, at Leeuwin Estate, are successfully building on the work of previous teams. Vanya Cullen sets a very high standard at Cullen, with her staunch biodynamic philosophies and green ambitions. Paula Holmes à Court, at Vasse Felix, has empowered Virginia Willcock to take Vasse Felix to the next level, and is also pushing forward his Idée Fixe project with the highly capable Mick Langridge. Julian Langworthy has been immensely effective in building the Deep Woods brand with his superb winemaking skills and uncanny success at wine shows. Glenn Goodall, at Xanadu, has also enjoyed astonishing success. In this forum, Will Berliner, at Cloudburst, is the classic disrupter, and is taking his own pathway of nurture and winemaking. Recently, his wines were launched through La Place de Bordeaux, highlighting the strength of his personality, purpose, and wines. In this tasting review, I was impressed by the consistency of Larry Cherubino wines, which are perfectly pitched for the fine wine market. The team at Cape Mentelle are harnessing technology and sustainability with great effect. The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, which was not in this particular review, as it is not yet released, looks magnificent as a barrel sample. Voyager’s Estate wines have also come up a notch, highlighting leadership in vineyard management and sustainability. Although not everyone is mentioned, the blend of vignerons and ambitions in Margaret River is remarkable. The special can-do attitude and collaborative spirit give the region exceptional potential.

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Scale There are now 200 wine producers crushing Margaret River fruit and 75 wineries in operation. Although the average crush is 158 tonnes, over 60% of producers crush less than 50 tonnes. Some are extremely small family- owned businesses, producing less than 1,000 cases per year. Interestingly, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot only make up around 41% of plantings, (17.3%, 19.5%, and 4%, respectively), yet dominate the fine wines scene. Shiraz (14.5%) tantalisingly shows promise with a few very successful wines, but the styles are still variable. Semillon (16.5%) and sauvignon blanc (18.2%) are often blended. Mike Peterkin at Cullen, and then Pierro, probably made the region’s first classic dry white style. This Vintage Journal review, however, focuses primarily on chardonnay, cabernet, and shiraz. Chardonnay The stature of the Gingin clone is fully on display in this tasting review. While Leeuwin Estate, Cullen, and Vasse Felix and such have a commanding position within the ultra-fine wine scene, there are other producers also making high-quality, precise Chardonnays with compelling regional identity. Cloudburst, Deep Woods, Howard Park, Juniper, McHenry, Hohnen, Voyager Estate, and Xanadu are making exquisite examples. Larry Cherubino’s portfolio of Chardonnays is bewildering, but there is an impressive and highly appealing consistency of character. There are other marques also worth following, notably Bruce Duke’s Domaine Naturaliste, Driftwood, Evans and Tate, Fraser Gallop, Flowstone, Joseph River, Hutton, La Kooki, Peccavi, and Robert Oatley. There are, of course, other producers who preferred not to submit their wines, and so there are gaps in these tasting notes. Pierro and Woodlands are the most obvious and, while not reviewed, are well respected in the collectible market. Nonetheless, the fidelity of fruit definition and regional character across this group of wines is extremely compelling. Although styles and attitudes differ, there is a common thread of authenticity and voice of place that weaves through Margaret River Chardonnay. The consistency, diversity, and creativity that bring these qualities into focus are hallmarks of a classic modern wine region.

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Margaret River Fraser Gallop Estate

Cabernet Sauvignon / Blends Margaret River Cabernet has been an important Australian ultra-fine wine style, almost from the very beginning. Moss Wood, Cullen, and Vasse Felix are reference styles, each bringing a different slant on the Wilyabrup terroir. Increasingly, Leeuwin Estate, Xanadu, Cape Mentelle, and Voyager Estate are becoming important, reflecting extraordinary investment in viticulture and winemaking on the southern fringes of Margaret River township. Ten years ago, the styles around here were quite sinewy, but tannin management and more intuitive winemaking have improved the quality to a much higher level. Deep Woods and Cloudburst have also added diversity and interest through their ground- breaking and high-profile successes. Howard Park’s impressive flagship Abercrombie Cabernet is increasingly based on its Leston Vineyard at Wilyabrup. Also, there are other producers making Cabernet at an extremely high level, particularly Amelia Park, Robert Mann’s Corymbia, Graylyn, Flametree, Forester Estate, Flowstone, Jilyara, Juniper, Lenton Brae, Moss Brothers, Oates Ends, Rosabrook, Thompson Estate, Robert

The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus Amelia Park

Oatley, Passel Estate, the unusually named UMAMU, and Wills Domain. (Again, Woodlands and Pierro are not present here, but they both have very good reputations.) Although I am only newly acquainted with some of these producers, the tasting reviews reveal the strength and diversity of Margaret River Cabernet. The quality of the wines suggests significant investment in vineyards and winemaking. The increasing interest in sub- regional differences is bound to take centre stage in the coming years. Shiraz Margaret River Shiraz is less definable than Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Cape Mentelle, Vasse Felix, and Leeuwin Estate have been working with the variety for a long time and are achieving very good results. Windance, Forrester Estate, and Deep Woods are also achieving some good outcomes. SOURCES The Australian Ark Project (2022) Margaret River Wine Association (2022)

Margaret River

Wine Regions of Western Australia 0 50 100 km

Darwin

Jurien Bay

NORTHERN TERRITORY

QUEENSLAND

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

75 mi

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Brisbane

NEW SOUTH WALES

Moora

Perth

Sydney

Adelaide

Melbourne VICTORIA

Cape Naturaliste

TASMANIA

Hobart

Geographe Bay

Yued

Dunsborough

Busselton

QUINDALUP

YALLINGUP

Balardung

Merredin VASSE

CARBUNUP RIVER

Swan District

Cape Clairault

Two Rocks

Northam

Wilyabrup

Bullsbrook

Margaret River

Caversham Ellenbrook

Swan Valley

Treeton

PERTH (Swan River Colony) Rottnest Is.

York

GRACETOWN Cowaramup Point

W a j u k

Cowaramup

Perth Hills

Fremantle

ROSA BROOK

Margaret River

Cape Mentelle

Rockingham

Wallcliffe

Baldivis

PREVELLY

Mandurah

WITCHCLIFFE

Pinjarra

I N D I A N O C E A N

Pinjarup

Peel

Cape Freycinet

Waroona

Margaret River

Narrogin

W i l m a n

North Point

Subregions Others

KARRIDALE

Harvey

Binningup

KUDARDUP

Wagin Cape Hamelin Knobby Head

Hardy Inlet

Bunbury

Collie

Geographe

Augusta

Cape Naturaliste

Flinders Bay

Capel

Geographe Bay

Cape Leeuwin

Katanning

Dunsborough

Donnybrook

Busselton

30 km

Blackwood Valley

Margaret River

20 mi

Bridgetown

Margaret River

Manjimup

Great Southern

Manjimup

Frankland River

Cape Leeuwin

Flinders Bay

Pemberton

Mount Barker

Porongurup

Mount Barker

S O U T H E R N O C E A N

Albany

Denmark Denmark

Albany

The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus

Tasting Notes

Cabernet and Blends Vasse Felix

G 97

Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec 2019 Medium-deep crimson. Beautifully refined wine with cassis wax polish, mocha espresso aromas. Concentrated blackcurrant, blackberry fruits, plentiful fine chocolaty tannins and well balanced roasted chestnut, espresso notes. Finishes chocolaty and long. Lovely fruit definition, volume and torque. A standout wine. Drink 2026–2038 14.5% alc Forester Estate G 97 Forester Estate Yelverton Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Medium-deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant cedar aromas with hints of mocha and spice. Superbly concentrated wine with inky, cassis, mocha flavours, fine grainy from tannins, superb mid palate volume and well integrated fresh acidity. Finishes cedar firm with lovely dark berry fruits. A classic Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon with superb fruit and oak balance. Drink now–2035 13.7% alc Brown Hill Estate G 96+ Perseverance Cabernet Merlot 2021 Medium-deep crimson. Attractive dark plum, mulberry, roasted chestnut marzipan aromas. Beautifully balanced wine with inky dark plum, cassis, mulberry fruits, fine sinuous graphite tannins and underlying roasted chestnut, marzipan, hint cedar notes. Finishes grainy firm with star anise notes. An outstanding wine with superb fruit definition, flow and elegance in structure. Cabernet and Merlot in lovely harmony. Drink Rolling Stone Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec 2018 The very serious 2018 Margaret River Bordeaux blend focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec and, unsurprisingly for the year, delivers powerful aromas of just-ripe blackcurrant, graphite, dried herbs and granite with a strong backing of French oak. It then jumps out of the blocks with lashings of blackberry, blackcurrant and violets, before tightening up to a long, strong, well defined finish with exceptional tannins that are significant yet fine – a real feature. Don’t be tempted for at least another decade. 2032–2043 Facing: ‘Wine Regions of Western Australia’ from The Australian Ark by Andrew Caillard. www.australianark.com now–2032 14% alc McHenry Hohnen G 96

Margaret River

Deep Woods Estate

G 96

Single Vineyard Cabernet Malbec 2021 Medium-deep crimson. Classical blackcurrant cedar spice aromas with nutmeg notes. Generous and supple with pure sweet fruited cassis, dark chocolate, mocha cedar flavours and persistent fine grained tannins. Lovely volume and balance. Drink now–2030 14% alc Clairault Streicker G 95 Streicker Nysa Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Intense and lifted marzipan/roasted almond, cedar, dark fruited chinotto aromas. Voluminous and inky deep with rich blackcurrant fruits, praline, marzipan notes, fine loose-knit grainy/al dente/bittersweet textures and well integrated acidity. A touch of chinotto/leafiness at the finish with aniseed notes. A lot of presence. Drink now–2032 14% alc Deep Woods Estate G 95 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 Medium-deep crimson. Lifted cassis, blackberry aromas with herb garden/hint bush garrigue notes. Richly flavoured with ample dark berry fruits, mocha oak notes and fine loose-knit grainy tannins. Finishes chocolaty and long. Lovely volume, definition and torque. Drink now– Passel Estate Lot 71 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Medium-deep crimson. Attractive blackcurrant, sesame, praline, hint espresso aromas and flavours. Well concentrated and balanced wine with plentiful cedar-y firm tannins, mid palate volume and new oak. Lovely complexity and drive. Drink now–keep for a while. 14% alc Brown Hill Estate G 95 Ivanhoe Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 Medium-deep crimson. Attractive blackcurrant pastille, vanilla aromas with herb notes. Well balanced cassis, touch leafy flavours, fine sinuous graphite tannins and underlying savoury notes. Finishes long and minerally. Elegant and classical. Drink now–2032 14% alc Vasse Felix G 95 Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 Medium-deep crimson. Blackcurrant, dark chocolate aromas with espresso notes. Classically structured with ample blackcurrant fruits, persistent fine grained tannins, well integrated cedar/roasted marzipan notes. Claret-firm and long. A reference style. Drink now–2030 14% alc 2034 14% alc Passel Estate G 95

The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus

Voyager Estate

G 95

Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Medium-deep crimson. Expressive dark cherry, dark chocolate, espresso aromas with herb cola notes. Appealing cassis cherry cola roasted coffee, hint vanilla flavours and fine lacy/grainy tannins. Finishes firm and long. Drinking beautifully. Drink now–2030 14.5% alc Peccavi G 95 Peccavi ‘The Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Medium-deep crimson. intense blackcurrant, smoked almond, chinotto aromas. Generously concentrated with ample dark berry fruits, fine chocolaty textures and well integrated vanilla notes. Amaro at the finish. A substantial wine with appealing density and definition. A classic iron fist in a velvet glove type of wine. Drink now–2030 13.5% alc Domaine Naturaliste G 94 Le Naturaliste Cabernet Franc 2020 This 2020 Cabernet Franc shows strong typicity as it radiates with a dense core of liquorice, blackberry and cedar-y tones with a touch of lift. It’s surprisingly structural, with rich chewy tannins around a core of well defined dark berry flavours providing a muscular texture before tightening up on the finish. Young and serious Cabernet Franc. Drink 2028–2040 Howard Park G 94 Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 A subtle change for Abercrombie in 2020, this vintage is exclusively sourced from Margaret River without any fruit from Mount Barker. It is quite a different expression, with powerful graphite and gravel aromas enriched by thick layers of blackberry with a touch of cocoa, and new French oak never far away, topped by a layer of dried herbs. Quite classic in style, with meaty/chewy tannins over blackberry flavours with a faint whisper of peppermint. There is a sinewy, angular side to this wine right now which, with obvious fruit power, sets it up well for the long haul, although it is far from peak. Drink 2025–2048 McHenry Hohnen G 94 Hazel’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 The finely tuned 2019 single vineyard Hazel’s Cabernet Sauvignon from the cooler southern McHenry Hohnen vineyards offers up impressive detail and poise with layers of gravel, turned earth and blackcurrant aromas, topped with cedar-y complexity. More earthy, mineral tones emerge on the palate well supported by a rich vein of tannins and vibrant acidity through to a composed finish. It is a bit of a sleeper and will be in prime condition after another decade in bottle. Drink 2028–2038

Margaret River

Miles From Nowhere

G 94

Miles From Nowhere Origin of Now Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 Medium crimson. Attractive red cherry, cassis aromas with some liquorice notes. Richly flavoured and inky textured wine with pure red cherry, cassis flavours, fine chalky/grainy tannins and underlying hazelnut, vanilla notes. Finishes chalky firm and long. Hint of black olive. Cork seal. Drink now–2030 14.5% alc Fraser Gallop Estate G 94 Palladian Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Medium-deep crimson. Blackcurrant, mocha, graphite aromas with hint of mint. Well concentrated blackcurrant, mocha flavours, fine al dente tannins and some minty notes. Finishes firm and tight. Drink now–2030 14% alc Forester Estate G 94 Forester Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh chinotto cassis aromas and flavours. Well concentrated and sweet fruited with ample dark berry fruits, fine slinky tannins and some vanilla, roasted almond notes. Very good. Drink now– 2028 14% alc Voyager Estate G 94 Voyager Estate The Modern Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh cassis, roasted coffee, herb garden aromas and flavours. Very appealing sweet juicy blackcurrant, blackberry fruits, fine supple/chocolaty tannins and well integrated roasted walnut notes. Chocolaty firm at the finish with touch of leafiness and liquorice. Lovely drinking. Drink now–keep for a while 14.5% alc Peccavi G 94 Peccavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Medium-deep crimson. lifted cassis black cherry aromas with chinotto notes. Supple blackcurrant, black cherry, parma violet flavours, fine chalky/graphite tannins, and well integrated roasted hazelnut. Delicious drinking. Drink now–2032 14.5% alc Clairault Streicker G 94 Streicker Ironstone Block Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Medium-deep crimson. Perfumed inky, violet, blackcurrant pastille, espresso aromas and flavours, fine grained/graphite tannins and well balanced vanilla/marzipan notes. Finish claret firm with aniseed notes. Drink now–2030 14% alc

The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus

Domaine Naturaliste

G 93

Morus Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 This 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is settling nicely at 4 years of age as it offers up a rich core of blackberry, blackcurrant and Wilyabrup gravels with a well weighted backbone of toasty oak. It is quite fleshy in style, the significant but pliable tannins well matched to layers of redcurrant with hints of chocolate. Good overall definition and solid length will see it continue to drink well over the medium term. Drink 2025–2035 Vasse Felix G 93 Filius Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 Medium crimson. Fresh black olive, cola, cassis aromas. Fresh and buoyant with ample dark berry fruits, sinuous textures and well integrated acidity. Finishes chocolaty firm with star anise notes. Drink now–soon 14% alc Flowstone G 93 Flowstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 Medium-deep crimson. Cedarwood, cassis vanilla aromas and flavours. Sweet fruited and compact with ample dark berry fruits, fine slinky dry tannins and well integrated vanilla notes. Racy firm finish. Drink now– 2030 14% alc Fraser Gallop Estate G 93 Parterre Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon blend 2020 Medium-deep crimson. Cedar, cassis, tobacco aromas and flavours and fine grained tannins. Gentle and chocolaty with attractive mineral length. Medium term drinking. Drink now–keep for while 14% alc Voyager Estate G 93 Voyager Estate Coastal Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh black olive, cassis, blueberry aromas with hints of cedar and spice. Well concentrated supple Cabernet with generous cassis, blueberry, chinotto flavours, fine sinuous tannins and persistent acidity. Build up firm at the finish with black olive, graphite notes. Drink now–keep for a while 14% alc Oates Ends G 93 Oates Ends Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Medium-deep crimson. Roasted coffee, blackcurrant aromas and flavours with cedar, herb notes. Chocolaty palate with ample volume and well integrated firm tannins. Espresso notes at the finish. Drink now–soon 13.5% alc

Margaret River

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