Saint-Estèphe This was a particularly successful year for many producers. Ch Cos d’Estournel, Ch Montrose, Ch Calon-Ségur, Ch Phélan Ségur, Ch Lafon- Rochet and Ch Tronquoy-Lalande were top performers. The wines show very good density and tannin richness. Although possessing only moderate, sometimes lowish alcohols, the structures are amazing. It will be fascinating to watch the development of the wines. I tasted many of the 2021 Grand Cru Classé wines at the Cité du Vin in Bordeaux (hosted by the Union des Grand Crus) and during the primeur week at various châteaux on the Left and Right Banks during late April 2022. It was great to see the international media and wine trade re-engaged with Bordeaux once again. Nonetheless, the task of tasting through the catalogue of Grand Cru Classé producers is increasingly difficult, as more and more châteaux insist the wines be tasted at their cellars. Although it is always best this way, it means more planning, more appointments, more driving and more chances of a traffic infringement! will increasingly reinforce reputations and drive fine wine consumer support. The impressive cellars at Ch Haut Bailly, for instance, highlight its sustainable values, sense of purpose, and ambitions.
“Whatever the terroir, the monitoring and anticipation had to be irreproachable. Unceasing watchfulness, omnipresence and absolute precision were required, from the moment the vines came out of their dormant period until the moment the wines were put into barrels” Jean Hubert Delon propriétaire Ch Léoville-Las Cases and Ch Nénin. Another trend is an increasing disconnect between established/ official hierarchies and market sentiment. The Saint-Émilion Classification, first introduced in 1953, has been embroiled in controversy for a long time with claims and counterclaims. Ch Angelus, Ch Cheval Blanc and to be experimenting with these classical vessels. Ch La Dominique, Ch Angludet, Clos Fourtet and Ch Trottevieille are examples. Other producers, like Ch Pétrus, are taking extra care to prevent over- extraction of new oak flavours by repeat-washing their barriques before maturation. (This particular practice was once commonplace, but became unfashionable during the 1970s, when the taste of new oak became popular. By the mid-2000s a more sotto voce approach began to take hold, and now winemakers are returning to the old ways.) All of these maturation techniques highlight a wish to optimise the transparency and identity of the vineyard. This trend, I think, will continue, regardless of vintage conditions in the future. Ch Ausone have recently dropped out of the Classification for various reasons. The 1855 Classification continues to play a historic influence over perceptions, but even so there are estates that have improved their standings over the years. Pomerol has sensibly never had a classification, and this has allowed the market to sort out the best estates. There is generally a correlation between investment and quality. While vineyard site is a key factor, improving technology and smart winemaking philosophies are bringing new perceptions. Sustainable credentials, inclusiveness, and a track record for quality, rather than entitled rankings,
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The Vintage Journal – International Series
Bordeaux 2022 Château Cos d’Estournel
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