Bordeaux En Primeur 2021

Pauillac Blackcurrant aromas, fine-grained tannins, mid-palate richness and cedar complexity feature in many of the wines. The first growths performed extremely well, with Ch Latour slightly ahead of the pack. Nonetheless, both Ch Mouton Rothschild and Ch Lafite Rothschild are exemplary wines, showing definition and stature. I particularly liked Ch Batailley, Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Ch Pichon Comtesse de Lalande, Ch Pichon Baron, Ch Pontet-Canet and Ch d’Armailhac. Saint-Julien Classical styles, many with blackcurrant aromas, dark chocolate/ espresso notes and vigorous/ animated textures. The wines are a touch more phenolic than Pauillac, but the grippiness/ firmness give the wine presence and carry the flavours to the finish. Ch Gruaud-Larose was a standout wine this year. Ch Ducru-Beaucaillou, Ch Léoville-Las Cases, Clos de Marquis, Ch Léoville-Barton and Ch Beychevelle all made stylish wines. Alcohols mostly hovered around 12.5–13.3%. Margaux Gentle wines with very good density and suppleness. Ch Margaux, Pavillon Rouge, Ch Palmer, Alter Ego de Palmer and Ch Rauzan-Ségla were defining wines of the sub region. Pessac-Léognan Inky dense wines with dark cherry/ elderberry fruits and vigorous tannins. Ch Haut-Brion, Ch La Mission Haut-Brion, La Clarté de Ch Haut-Brion, Ch Haut-Bailly and Ch Smith Haut Lafitte are all strong performers. Saint-Émilion Ch Angelus, Ch Ausone, Ch Cheval Blanc, Ch Figeac, Ch Belair Monange and Ch Trottevieille all show outstanding potential. Their pure fruit definition, chalky structures and precision are impressive. Ch Tertre

Roteboeuf is idiosyncratic and beautiful. Ch Canon, Ch La Dominique, Ch Troplong Lalande and Ch Pavie Macquin are very classical in style. Ch Pavie continues to run its own race. The structure is extremely assertive, but over time the tannins may settle down. Pomerol Rigorous management led to some very smart wines being produced in Pomerol. Ch Petrus, Ch Lafleur, Vieux Château Certan, La Conseillante. L’if, Le Pin and Ch L’Évangile showed great promise. The Lilliputian estate Ch Séraphine, Ch Gazin and Ch Le Bon Pasteur also produced exemplary vintages. Sauternes–Barsac I didn’t travel down to Sauternes this year. But having tasted several examples at the media tasting in Bordeaux, I think it is generally quite an average year. Botrytis did arrive, but many wines were based on the first selection. Ch Suduiraut cropped at only 0.9hl/ha, which shows the dismal economic results. Ch Coutet and Ch La Tour Blanche are excellent.

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The Vintage Journal – International Series

Bordeaux 2022

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First light in Pomerol

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