GRENACHE – ARE WE THERE YET?
Grenache has an image problem, not only in Australia but also around the world. Grenache is seldom mentioned as the hero grape variety, even though it lies at the heart of great Châteauneuf-du-Pape and plays a significant role in the wines of Southern France, Rioja and Priorat. The ethereal qualities of grenache, similar to pinot noir, are increasingly recognised around the world. The Barossa’s old vine heritage and wide plantings of old vine grenache are unique and promise a new golden age for this grape variety. In the Barossa, Grenache is the third most planted red-grape variety, with 686 hectares back in 2018 compared to 1930 hectares for cabernet sauvignon and 8000 for shiraz. In recent years, it has certainly punched well above its weight, in terms of interest and discussion around the variety. For long champions for grenache, such as Charlie Melton, Turkey Flat and Marco Cirillo, it must give them great pride that their efforts and investment are finally paying off. The success of the variety, particularly in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Priorat, and the prices that the best international wines can achieve certainly show there is potential for Barossan grenache to potentially compete with the local shiraz. But with a head start of decades, it will not be an overnight success, and while Grenache is certainly gaining favour among high-interest consumers, it is largely yet to gain a strong foothold amongst mainstream consumers. Among the major Barossan grape varieties, grenache does have an ace up its sleeve, thanks to a high proportion of old vineyards, with 18% of grenache vines planted in the Barossa before 1946. Shiraz, comparatively, is under 3%. It’s an important distinction and provides grenache with a strong array of vineyard resources on which to launch its unique local wines into the global fine- wine market. Over 80 different grenache were submitted to the tasting and in every conceivable style, from Provençal-styled rosé through to full- throttle, luscious mouth-filling reds. The quality of the best wines was
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T he V intage J ournal – Regional Focus
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