A handful of white wines showed that when a winemaker really focuses on well-suited white-grape varieties, the results can be outstanding. The Tscharke Wines Gnadenfrei Grenache Blanc 2020, aged in terracotta amphorae, was stunning, showing both the delicacy and understated power in the best wines made from this variety. Hayes Family Wines Estate Grenache Blanc 2021 was a little bit more restrained, but also showed good texture and grip. The John Duval Wines Plexus Marsanne Roussanne Viognier 2021 also stood tall, although it is still quite tight and needs some time to blossom. One surprise was the Stage Door Wine Co Eden Valley Grüner Veltliner 2021, which had good varietal typicity and is well pitched for early drinking, illustrating that the cooler Eden Valley may have good potential with this Austrian variety. Pewsey Vale’s benchmark Prima Riesling from 2021, with its 9% alcohol, also showed the potential of Eden Valley to successfully dabble in sweeter riesling styles. For alternative reds there were two disparate styles on display. Some winemakers have opted to create rich, unctuous wines that are in many ways clones of the classic Barossan shiraz. These were often less successful, as the regional influences overwhelmed their unique varietal typicity and personality. The best examples managed to balance the two, with region and variety front and centre, such as the Soul Growers Single Vineyard Graciano 2020. This wine had a real Spanish appeal to it, with delicious savoury layers of fruit while retaining density and muscular tannins. The Langmeil Winery Della Mina Sangiovese Barbera 2020 was also worth noting, with its mix of vibrant fruits and juicy acidity making for a very attractive early drinking style. Clearly the Barossa has potential with alternative red styles with grapes indigenous to France, Italy and Spain. Overall, the quality of the wines in the tasting showed that there is genuinely plenty to be excited about in alternative varieties and styles for the Barossa. Already some winemakers are crafting exceptional wines and there is no reason why the Barossa cannot build its reputation far beyond the big, bold red wines styles that are prevalent today.
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T he V intage J ournal – Regional Focus
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