Frankland Estate Olmo's Reward eJournal

This eJournal explores the history and development of an emerging classic from Western Australia, Frankland Estate's Olmo's Reward.

ANDREW CAILLARD MW

VINTAGE JOURNAL – VERTICALS –

FRANKLAND ESTATE OLMO’S REWARD

Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward is an emerging classic from Western Australia’s Frankland River. The wine honours the contribution of viticulture expert Professor Harold Olmo (University of California), who visited the area in 1955. Olmo concluded that the Upper Frankland River region was ‘equivalent or better than areas, to be found in the present (day) quality districts of Australia or California’ . This opinion was also shared by vigneron Jack Mann, who encouraged Olmo to explore the potential of cool climate grape growing in Frankland River and Mount Barker sub-regions. Although it took a while to get the Lower Great Southern going, viticulture has become a feature of the landscape for nearly half a century. Frankland Estate features prominently in Frankland River’s recent history. The original 6.5-hectare vineyard was established by former real estate broker Barrie Smith and his wife former Radiotherapist Judi Cullam in 1988. Together they had become important wool growers and crop farmers in the district. Previously they had acquired three separate 1000-acre (405 ha) soldier settlement s during the seventies and conducted soil sampling on the properties, Rocky Ridge including the Isolation Ridge Vineyard showing the greatest potential for grapegrowing, particularly the Bordeaux varieties . Barrie also grew up on a vineyard in the Riverland , so wine had always been an important part of his life. Their combined interest was further primed by meeting Bill Hardy of Thomas Hardy & Sons, who took them through the wine regions of France during the mid-1980s. With this knowledge, they also travelled to Bordeaux and worked several vintage s at Château Senejac with the New Zealand winemaker Jenny Dobson. Their intention was to make a classic Western Australian claret style based on the traditional Bordeaux varieties. Frankland Estate lies on rolling countryside and comprises pastureland, 34 hectares of vineyard and large stands of Marri (Red Gum) and Jarrah forest. The original vineyard block runs

Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward

along an isolated ridge (on north- and east-facing slopes) peppered with ironstone gravels and loam over red clay. First plantings comprised cabernet franc, shiraz cabernet sauvignon and riesling. In 1991 further plantings of merlot, petit verdot and malbec took place. Although there were plans to make a claret-style red wine, Frankland Estate Estate made its name with its well-regarded Isolation Ridge Riesling. Throughout the 1990s, Judi Cullam was a prominent ambassador for the cause of fine wine (and riesling particularly). In 2018, she was recognised for these efforts by winning the Len Evans Award for Leadership.

The Vintage Journal – Verticals

Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward

Since 2010 second-generation siblings Hunter and Elizabeth Smith have acquired the expanded vineyard property and carried on the pioneering work of their parents. Although Frankland Estate has achieved great success with its Riesling wines and other releases, the claret project had not taken off in the same way, despite the initial promise. Winemaker and Elizabeth's husband, Brian Kent, who arrived on the scene in 2010 , nonetheless played a crucial role in evolving the Olmo’s Reward style. This has been achieved through collaboration, trial and error (in both the vineyard and winery) and meticulous selection. This tasting review shows great progress has been made in achieving the team’s goals. It is also fascinating to see how cabernet franc has become the driving force behind the wine. The combination of terroir, varietal character, and winemaking techniques bring a distinct singularity of style. The purity of fruit, ferruginous minerality and gentle vigour are all neatly aligned.

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According to Hunter Smith, the original vine stock was sourced from Leeuwin Estate and neighbouring properties, including the Justin Vineyard. Although cabernet franc was brought into Australia during the 19th century, the material planted in Western Australia’s southwest more recently is likely sourced from newer clones. In 1988 not much was available. While there is a large amount of research on the development of the Houghton clones, there are fewer references to cabernet franc. During the 1950s, Penfolds brought out a selection from France (Pen58), which eventually found its way into Western Australia. Malbec was brought into the state much earlier; probably during the mid-1800s. Merlot is also of newer provenance, but its contribution to the Olmo’s Reward style is becoming negligible. Cabernet franc has become the dominant variety with malbec and cabernet sauvignon providing complexity, roundness and colour. The vineyard is farmed organically (accredited in 2009), and sustainable principles are increasingly employed. The vines are typically trellised using the Scott Henry design. Vertical shoot positioning during the ripening period optimises exposure to the sun. Under-row mulching and inter-row natural grasses protect soil moistures and promote healthy vine growth. Seaweed and fish emulsions are also applied to promote more balanced pH in the soil. In addition, grape marc is composted and spread under the vines to replenish soil nutrients and reduce weeds. Guinea fowl run free throughout the year to reduce weevils and other bug populations, and sheep are regularly moved into the vineyard to mow the grass down – especially during spring to minimise frost damage. Vineyard and regenerative soil management techniques are classical for this part of the world with the objective of producing low-yielding, healthy, and flavourful grapes. Winemaking at Frankland Estate is retro-modern and borrows from traditional winemaking techniques. Fermentation typically takes place in small open fermenters with regular plunging to extract colour and flavour. At completion of vinification, the wine is racked into a combination of new and seasoned puncheons or larger format oak for maturation. Earlier vintages of Olmo’s Reward were initially aged in a higher proportion of new oak for nearly two years.

Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward

But over the last several years, the maturation time has been wound back to around 14-15 months. This has promoted better freshness and tannin balance in the wines. The volume produced each year has also been reduced to around 300–500 dozen, depending on the year. All of these small adjustments have made a big difference to the evolution of the Olmo’s Reward style. The increasing age of the vineyard has also clearly helped. The 2014 and 2018 are benchmark vintages in the series, but the consistency across vintages highlights a thoughtful, empathetic and precise approach to winemaking. Red fruit characters and a strong tannin presence are found in almost all vintages. This is generally offset by very good inky density and maturation complexity. A firm bittersweet finish lengthens the palate. The elegance, energy, rusty/ sturdy textures and vinosity are standout features of the style. Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward is one of few Australian cabernet franc-driven blends and promises to become a benchmark example. Ambitions for it to become ‘a top echelon Western Australian cabernet blend’ are well on track.

The Vintage Journal – Verticals

2019 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia

G 94

Medium deep crimson. Inky red currant, red cherry aromas with graphite, herb garden notes. Redcurrant pastille, hint black olive flavours, fine loose knit bittersweet textures, some vanilla roasted chestnut notes and pronounced minerally acidity. Finishes chalky firm with cola/ chinotto notes. A lighter claret style with attractive fruit sweetness, mid- palate density and animation. Should build more volume with age. 67% cabernet franc, 17% malbec, 13% cabernet sauvignon, 3% merlot blend. Screwcap. Drink now–2030. 14.5% alc 2018 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia G 95 Medium deep crimson. Fresh red cherry, redcurrant, cassis, vanilla aromas with graphite/ violet notes. Well concentrated blackcurrant, red currant, musky plum fruits, fine looseknit/ al dente textures, very good mid-palate volume, some vanilla/ marzipan notes and integrated fresh acidity. Finishes chewy firm and minerally with redcurrant pastille/ chinotto notes. Similar in character to 2017 with a touch more power, fruit density and length. 57% cabernet franc, 24% merlot, 19% malbec blend. Screwcap. Drink now–2034. 14.5% alc

Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward

2017 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia

G 94

Medium deep crimson. Intense red cherry, mulberry, cassis aromas with hint vanilla sage notes. Well concentrated with pure red cherry, mulberry fruits, hint musky notes, fine loose knit supple/ velvetine tannins, attractive viscosity and underlying savoury textures. Finishes leafy firm with bittersweet/ chinotto notes. Medium powered but expressive and delicious to drink. 69% cabernet franc, 14% merlot, 11% cabernet sauvignon, 6% malbec blend. Screwcap. Drink now–2030. 14% alc 2015 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia G 91 Medium crimson. Fragrant red cherry, redcurrant, cranberry, hint vanilla aromas with herb garden aniseed notes. Medium weighted wine with red cherry, redcurrant, salted liquorice flavours, fine lacy firm textures and pronounced mineral acidity. Finishes grippy/ rusty with tobacco, hint marzipan notes. Lighter style with dominating tannin structure. 72% cabernet franc, 19% cabernet sauvignon, 9% malbec blend. Screwcap. Best to drink soon Drink now–2028. 14% alc 2014 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia G 96 Medium deep crimson. Pure blackcurrant, mocha sage aromas with graphite notes. Beautifully concentrated, inky deep and impactful with plentiful cassis, dark plum fruits, fine loose knit chocolaty textures, well integrated mocha, roasted chestnut notes and persistent quartz acidity. Builds up gravelly firm with ample sweet fruit notes and some cedar complexity. A very well-balanced wine with the density, generosity and torque for long-term cellaring. A landmark vintage for Frankland Estate. 58% cabernet franc, 27% cabernet sauvignon, 10% malbec, 5% petit verdot blend. Screwcap. Drink now–2036. 14.2% alc 2013 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia G 93 Medium deep crimson. Fresh red cherry, cassis herb dried rose aromas with vanilla, hint marzipan notes. Smooth, supple and inky textured with plentiful redcurrant, red cherry, chinotto graphite notes, fine al-dente, leafy tannins and fresh long juicy acidity. Finishes firm and bittersweet. Well-balanced but medium-powered wine with attractive complexity and vinosity. 66% cabernet franc, 27% malbec, 7% cabernet sauvignon blend. Screwcap. Drink now–2030. 13.5% alc

The Vintage Journal – Verticals

2012 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia

G 93

Medium deep crimson. Lifted red plum, redcurrant, liquorice aniseed aromas with dark chocolate notes. Fresh developed red plum, redcurrant, roasted chestnut, hint vanilla flavours with fine grainy/ al dente textures, attractive mid-palate richness/ density and integrated minerally acidity. Vigorous finish with cedar/bush garrigue notes. Very good energy, fruit complexity and torque. 70% cabernet franc, 19% cabernet sauvignon, 11%

petit verdot blend. Screwcap. Drink now–2030+. 14.5% alc 2010 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia

G 95

Medium deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, black olive, graphite aromas with brambly, mocha notes. Well concentrated palate with developed black olive, graphite, chinotto, leafy flavours, fine bittersweet/ hint rusty textures, dark chocolate, mocha notes and fresh long mineral acidity. Finish cedar firm with tobacco, dried herb notes. Complex and refined. 58% cabernet franc, 35% merlot, 4% cabernet sauvignon, 3% malbec blend. Screwcap. Drink now–2034. 14% alc

Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward

2009 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia

G 93

Medium deep crimson. Roasted coffee, redcurrant, cedar wood, roasted walnut aromas and flavours with graphite notes. Buoyant and expressive palate with ample developed red berry fruits, fine supple al-dente/ hint brambly tannins, attractive cedar, roasted walnut, tobacco leaf complexity and some saline minerally notes. Finishes claret firm and tight with hint sappy notes. 70% cabernet franc, 13% merlot, 10% malbec, 7% cabernet

sauvignon blend. Screwcap. Drink now–2030. 14% alc 2008 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia

G 94

Medium deep colour. Fragrant red currant, cranberry, red plum aromas with espresso herb garden notes. Developed and integrated wine with ample red currant pastille, cranberry, plum fruits, fine loose knit chalky textures, very good mid-palate viscosity, some roasted chestnut/ cedar notes and persistent fresh acidity. Finishes claret firm with red berry tobacco leaf nuances. Supple, expressive and classically structured. Should keep going for a while. 62% cabernet franc, 17% merlot, 16% malbec, 5% cabernet sauvignon blend. Screwcap. Drink now–2032. 14% alc 2007 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia G 93 Deep colour. Developed red plum, cassis, mocha sage aromas with hint shellac notes. Generous and round with ample red plum, red cherry fruits, fine loose knit chalky textures and underlying mocha/ vanilla notes. Finishes chewy firm with attractive mineral length. Drinking well now with the fruit and vigorous structure in balance. 46% merlot, 45% cabernet franc, 9% malbec blend. Screwcap. Drink now–2030. 14% alc 2003 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia G 90 Medium crimson. Attractive roasted walnut, wax polish, choco-berry aromas with dried dates/ marzipan notes. Fully developed wine with expressive roasted walnut, choco-berry, tobacco leaf flavours, some mid- palate density, fine loose knit grainy/ sappy tannins. Finishes grippy/ leafy at the finish. 59% cabernet franc, 16% merlot, 14% malbec, 11% cabernet sauvignon blend. Screwcap. Drink now. 13.5% alc

The Vintage Journal – Verticals

1998 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia

G 87

Medium crimson. Tobacco, cassis, black olive bush garrigue aromas with menthol/ balsamic notes. Advanced tobacco, black olive tapenade, amontillado flavours, fine chalky/ hint sappy textures and fine long acidity. Cedary finish. Just holding on. Very crumbly cork. Not in the best of condition. 48% merlot, 43% cabernet franc, 4% malbec, 3% cabernet sauvignon, 2% petit verdot blend. Drink now. 12.6% alc 1994 Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River Western Australia G 94 Medium deep crimson. Well-developed wax polish, dark chocolate, espresso, cassis aromas with hints of cedar/ tobacco. Inky and complex with developed cedar, dark chocolate, blackcurrant fruits, fine grainy textures and fresh long acidity. Finishes firm with persistent tangy notes. Very attractive wine showing plenty of fruit sweetness and bottle age complexity. At its peak but should hold depending on the condition of the cork seal. 47% merlot, 34% cabernet franc, 10% cabernet sauvignon, 7% malbec, 2% petit verdot blend. Drink now–soon. 13.4% alc

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Frankland Estate Olmo’s Reward

About the Author Andrew Caillard MW is the author of several books including Penfolds The Rewards of Patience (six editions), Imagining Coonawarra, A Travel Through Time (the history of leading Spanish winery Marques de Riscal) and co-authored educational books Australian Wine and A Taste Around The World of Wine . The Essence of Dreams (the history of the Mornington Peninsula’s wine industry) will be published in 2022. Andrew has also written a definitive history of Australian wine with plans for publication in 2023. The Vintage Journal draws on research, experience and tasting expertise gathered during over 40 years working in the secondary market, the corporate retail world, the wine media, film and painting

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