Cullen
G 97
Kevin John Chardonnay 2020 Pale colour. Intense lemon curd, grapefruit, nectarine, roasted cashew/ hazelnut aromas with vanilla notes. Ripe expressive wine with pineapple, grapefruit, lemon fruits, plentiful grilled nut notes, underlying vanilla, hint of marzipan notes and long indelible acidity. Gloriously seductive wine with lovely creamy textures, density and torque. 2022-2030 Howard Park G 97 Allingham 2020 Pale colour. Fragrant grapefruit, lemon curd aromas with vanilla butterscotch notes. Superbly concentrated with grapefruit glacé, lemon curd, nectarine fruit, fine chalky textures, superb mid-palate creaminess and fresh indelible acidity, Finishes chalky with persistent yellow fruits. Very seductive with lovely fruit definition, complexity and mineral length. 2022–2030 Cherubino G 96 Pedestal Elevation Chardonnay 2020 Pale colour. Pure grapefruit, nectarine, flinty aromas with grilled nut notes. Creamy textured wine with ample stonefruit, marzipan, grilled nut flavours, some crème brûlée notes, lovely mid-palate viscosity, al dente/lacy textures and fresh persistent crisp acidity. Textbook Margaret River chardonnay. 2022–2026 Cloudburst G 96 Chardonnay 2019 Pale gold colour. Intense lime, grapefruit, apricot aromas with grilled hazelnut, vanilla notes. Gorgeously seductive wine with ripe apricot, nectarine, grapefruit flavours, marzipan, light pastry, honey nuances, fine slinky/chewy textures, superb mid-palate viscosity and fresh linear acidity. Finishes minerally and long. Quite forward and mouthfilling. Delicious to drink now and will probably keep for a while. (Screw cap will preserve it.) Idiosyncratic and unusual, but great. There is a hint of botrytis, but this adds another layer of complexity. Typically, the grapes are whole bunch pressed into barrel, where both primary and secondary fermentation take place. Will Berliner practices marginal battonage while the wine is being matured in barrel for around 10–11 months. Only 2,288 bottles made. 2022–2026
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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