Chardonnay
Leeuwin Estate
G 98+
Art Series Chardonnay 2019 Preservation of pristine fruit characters through vinification and maturation remains at the heart of the winemaking of Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay. This, of course, starts in the vineyard, where observations, reaction and mitigation of environmental patterns are key to vineyard management practices. The vineyard blocks have north-facing aspects and the rows run in an east–west direction. The morphology of the Gingin clone sees the berries ripen differently. Vintage takes place in mid-February to early March and the grapes (about 2–3 kilos per vine) are hand harvested when they have reached a point of ‘energy, bone and pop!’ This translates to intense pure fruit aromas, richness of flavour, fine al dente textures and fresh indelible acidity. These are the hallmark qualities of Gingin clone chardonnay. I have often wondered at the clone’s provenance and passing resemblance to Meursault. Pale colour. Intense lemon curd, grapefruit, peach, tropical fruit aromas with underlying roasted cashew/hazelnut notes. Lovely grapefruit, lemon curd, tropical fruits, fine persistent chalky textures, attractive mid- palate volume and fresh long indelible acidity. Finishes al dente, with savoury oak note. Still elemental, but wonderfully balanced with the fruit density and torque to last the distance. 2022–2036 Cullen G 98 Legacy Series Fruit Day Kevin John Chardonnay 2020 Pale colour. Expressive grapefruit, ginger, honey, lime aromas. Supple, sweet-fruited and minerally wine with grapefruit, lemon curd fruits, hints of honey, fine touch grippy/al dente tannins and underlying toasty/roasted almond notes. A long core of pristine but powerful mouthwatering acidity drives across the palate. Vanya Cullen wrote, “Harvested on a fruit day, the first pick for Chardonnay for the year. Pressed to concrete egg for ferment before maturation in a new Biodynamic Flower puncheon.” 2024-2032 Cherubino G 97 Gingin Willows Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 Pale colour. Lemon curd, white peach, nectarine, grapefruit aromas with expressive flinty notes. Beautiful lemon glacé, white peach, apricot, grapefruit flavours, fine loose-knit al dente textures, superb mid-palate richness and underlying grilled nut, vanilla notes. Finishes crispy with stone fruit notes. All of the elements in perfect symmetry. 2022–2030
Margaret River
47
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