This eJournal explores the complete history of Penfolds Grange. For the first time ever, Andrew Caillard MW, the leading expert on Penfolds, has published his personal anecdotes, reviews and current tasting notes of every vintage from 1951 to 2019.
ANDREW CAILLARD MW
VINTAGE JOURNAL – VERTICALS –
PENFOLDS GRANGE
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CONTENTS
Penfolds Grange
1
Grange – A Storied History
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Grange Review
Tasting Notes
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The Ratings
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Grange as a Collectible Rare Grange (1951–1967) Vintage Grange (1968–present)
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Max Schubert with Grange
PENFOLDS GRANGE
Grange – a storied history Max Schubert’s quest to make a great and long lasting South Australian wine is one of the key foundations of the Australian wine industry. The story of Penfolds Grange captures the essence of post war ambitions, the cause of Australian fine wine and extraordinary persistency of vision. Against insurmountable odds, Max Schubert began a tradition that counterpoints the great First Growth wines of Bordeaux and beyond. Penfolds Grange is beloved by people from all walks of life, because it symbolises what is possible in Australia through imagination, hard work and collaboration. Max Schubert, Penfolds’ chief winemaker, was sent to France and Spain in 1950 to investigate sherry making practices and port production. Fortified wines still dominated the fine wine scene in Australia. On a side trip to Bordeaux, however, he visited many great vineyard estates, including the First Growths Château Lafite Rothschild and Château Latour. He was also given the rare opportunity to taste and evaluate Bordeaux wines that were 40 to 50 years old. Inspired and impressed by these cellaring style wines, he dreamed of making ‘something different and lasting’ of his own. On his long five-day return flight to Adelaide via the Middle East, India, Singapore, and Indonesia, he made plans to make a great Australian red wine that would cellar for at least 20 years. On his return to Adelaide, Max Schubert began looking for appropriate raw material. He sourced shiraz grapes from the Grange Vineyard at Magill, and from the privately owned Honeypot Vineyard, planted in 1920 by Samuel Wynn, the founder of Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate, just south of Adelaide at Morphett Vale. He said, ‘I had already observed that both vineyards produced wines of distinctive varietal flavour and character with a great depth of colour and body weight, and felt that by producing them together, the outstanding characteristics of both vineyards would result in an improved all-round wine eminently suitable for my purpose.’ Combining traditional Australian techniques,
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new ideas from Bordeaux, and precision winemaking practices developed at Penfolds, Max Schubert made his first experimental wine in 1951. Although it was never released commercially, he called it Grange Hermitage, after the house and vineyard established by Dr Christopher and Mary Penfold in 1844. Schubert’s choice of shiraz, also known as ‘hermitage’ or ‘red hermitage’ in Australia, was based on availability, quality, reliability and continuity of supply. Cabernet sauvignon was not widely planted in South Australia at the time. Although Penfolds had recently acquired the Barossa Valley’s Kalimna Vineyard, including the 1888 Block 42 Cabernet Sauvignon plantings, the yields and quality were inconsistent. Over the next five years, Max Schubert quietly and studiously deve loped the Grange style. Using ground-breaking technology developed by Penfolds scientist Dr Ray Beckwith, in which wine could be accurately
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The Vintage Journal – Verticals
controlled and stabilised, he established a unique wine based on warm climate shiraz fruit, barrel fermented at the end of vinification, and matured in American oak hogsheads. But this ground-breaking new style polarised opinions. In 1957, Max Schubert was asked to show his efforts in Sydney to top management, invited wine identities and personal friends of the board. To his horror and embarrassment, the Grange experiment was universally disliked. One critic observed, ‘Schubert, I congratulate you. A very good, dry port, which no one in their right mind will buy – let alone drink.’ Gladys Penfold-Hyland, the autocratic chairman of the Board, finally ordered Schubert to stop making Grange. ‘Stocky in build, but generally dressed in beautifully tailored suits’, she ruled the family business with an iron rod. Defiance of such an order meant certain dismissal and severe loss of face. Max Schubert’s Grange project was doomed. His ambitions
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‘The basic method adopted opened up a whole new concept of quality dry red production, in that fermentation was strictly controlled over a much more lengthy period than hitherto, maximum extraction was obtained by daily handling and maceration of juice and grape solids. When this had been achieved the partially fermented wine was separated from the skins and the fermentation was then completed in the (five untreated) new hogsheads where the wine remained until the time of bottling some 18 months later. The objective was to produce a big, full-bodied wine containing maximum extraction of all the components in the grape material used.’ Penfolds Chief Winemaker Max Schubert on 1952 Grange After Max Schubert returned to Adelaide, Penfold’s assistant general manager, Jeffrey Penfold Hyland, offered his commiserations and suggested that the project be continued in secret: with a distance of 1400 kilometres between Sydney and Adelaide, the senior management at Head Office would be none the wiser. With the help of his winemaking team, all experimental Grange was stashed out of sight in the underground cellars at Magill, and the Grange experiment continued, and the tradition of secrecy expected of every Penfolds employee was taken to a new level. From 1957 to 1959, the hidden Granges were made without the knowledge of the Penfolds Board; Max Schubert continued to source fruit and conduct his experiments in relative secrecy. But there were compromises made, because buying new oak would have attracted notice from the bean counters in Sydney. to make a great wine that Australians would be proud of were now officially shelved. The experimental Grange vintages, already bottled and binned, would be sold off to clubs as house wine, and any remaining stock would be blended into oblivion.
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The Vintage Journal – Verticals
Although management was kept away, friends and associates, who believed in the cause of Grange, were occasionally brought in to taste the wines. Some bottles were even given away. Although considered uncommercial in 1957, good news began to filter out about Schubert’s unique Grange Hermitage. The Penfolds Board generously ordered production of Grange to restart, just in time for the 1960 vintage. In 1962, the 1955 Penfolds Grange won the first of 50 gold medals and many trophies. The Grange legend was born. It is Australia’s most famous and respected wine, with a reputation for superb fruit complexity, richness of flavour and longevity. Grange is now proven to last more than 50 years, further enhancing this timeless story of personal triumph and extraordinary vision.
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Grange Review
FIRST VINTAGE
1951 EXPERIMENTAL; 1952 COMMERCIAL
Primarily shiraz with a small percentage of cabernet sauvignon in most years (usually less than 5%, but never above 14%) Usually, but not exclusively, a multi-district blend, South Australia. Significant shiraz contributions from the Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, McLaren Vale and Magill Estate; cabernet sauvignon from Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, and McLaren Vale, Padthaway and Robe 10-tonne stainless steel tanks with header boards at Nuriootpa. 3–7-tonne open fermenters with wax lined/ wooden header boards at Magill Estate. All components complete fermentation in barrel.
Variety
Origin
Fermentation
18–20 months in new American oak hogsheads (300 litres)
Maturation
Named after the Grange Cottage built in 1845 at Magill Estate, and itself named for Mary Penfold’s family home in England. Labelled Grange Hermitage until the 1989 vintage; Grange since the 1990 vintage. Made at Magill until 1973, Nuriootpa, Barossa Valley until 2001 and partially returned to Magill Estate in time for the 2002 vintage. 1979 first vintage available in magnums. Packaged in laser-etched bottles with identification numbers since the 1994 vintage. Limited availability in all Penfolds markets.
Comments
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TASTING NOTES These tasting notes are drawn from my collection of Grange notes taken while working on the Penfolds: The Rewards of Patience books and collection releases. I have seen all of these vintages on more than one occasion at various events, dinners and clinics over the years. Although the Grange style has never really changed, it has gone through an evolution where sourcing, technology and experience have all allowed an overall improvement in style. Were, for instance, a winemaker to edge the quality forward by 1% per year, the overall result after 70 years would be substantial! But in the case of Grange, the development of style is greatly nuanced by vintage conditions, vineyard sourcing and generational succession. When referencing these tastings notes, it’s also worthwhile to understand that perspectives change through the years. When looking back at older vintages, it is always through the looking glass of the present. Scoring is always fraught, because wine is always a moving target. The aromas and flavours change with its exposure to air, and noise can also alter perceptions. Under cork seal, bottles invariably age at a different pace. Nonetheless, through the experience of the Penfolds recorking clinics, I have always been impressed at the resilience of Grange, (stored in warmer conditions in Queensland or Western Australia, or in cooler climes like Tasmania). But there are differences. Recorked bottles with a dash of newer vintage Grange are often refreshed by this process and take a few years to settle back down. When reading these notes, it is worth understanding the concept of reputation versus individual scores. The former is usually a very good barometer and the latter a more detailed review of the vintage. As you will see below, they don’t always align. The notes in grey scale are lifted from The Rewards of Patience , but these are my notes and based on experience. Wines that are now considered as past their prime are not given scores, because there is no point. But, remember, there are always bottles that could be better. Except for experimental in-house bottlings, Penfolds Grange has always been sealed with cork. Although Grange was profoundly different, some of the vinification techniques were traditional and based on the discoveries and advances during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. But they also represent major advances in fruit sourcing, wine making technology, oak maturation and
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outlooks. The progress through the ages highlights the generations of effort associated with over seven decades of winemaking. The 1950s are mainly experimental wines, but they also highlight a very high level of technical knowledge and expertise. The 1951 vintage was never meant to be released, and bottles were stored in the cellars at Penfolds Magill for over 30 years before the vintage was rediscovered. Previously, 1952 was considered to be the first vintage. However, 1951 was really a disappointment, as it never had the fruit power, structure or complexity to last the distance. It is somewhat ironic that 1951 Grange commands such a massive price at auction. On the other hand, it represents an important fragment of Australian history. When Max Schubert was deprived of resources, he still carried on with his Grange project, but the secret vintages, with the exception of 1959, never had the fruit power, the volume, or the oak integration to go the distance. But all things considered, including the wisdom of hindsight, 1952, 1953 and 1955 were simply outstanding examples of highly skilled winemaking. Grange became well known in the 1960s with some stellar vintages and show results, but the last few vintages of the decade were average, reflecting the challenges of the growing seasons. By this time some younger members of the winemaking team believed that Grange had an unacceptable level of volatile acidity. Max Schubert saw it as a way to achieve more lift and complexity, but this could become accentuated with age. During 1970s this feature disappeared, and the wines were better for it. Also, maturation and bottling times were adjusted to bring more freshness to the style. By the 1980s the wines showed more clarity and polish. While still ethereal and buoyant, Grange enjoyed increasing stature. Vineyard sourcing and tannin management saw the wines improve, with increasing pure fruit definition and chocolaty textures, effectively lifting the transparency of the vintage and evening out lesser years. By the 1990s Grange became recognised as an international First Growth. This was helped by a more visible multi-media and rapid forms of communication. The combination of improved sourcing, classification, winemaking and oak maturation during this decade elevated the style even further, giving the wines more complexity, density and integration.
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By the 2000s Grange reached a zenith. Winemaking advances slowed and vineyard management and sourcing became the key to evolution. Still, the vintages of the 2010s are massively impressive and highlight that Grange is a work in progress, continues to improve and remains a lasting reference of Australia’s ultra-fine wine scene. Although it is hard to predict the future, I think that most advances in viticulture and production will relate to precision management, sustainable practices, climate mitigation and circularity. The use of technology, artificial intelligence and data will inevitably lead to further improvements in quality and new horizons for Grange. Behind all of this is a first class winemaking team renowned for its esprit de corps, optimism and wonderful collaborative spirit.
The Ratings REPUTATION
MY SCORES
★★★★★ Exceptional ★★★★ Very Good
95–100 points 91–94 points 87–90 points
Good
★★★
Not showing its best
<86 Past
★★
Past
★
There are some vintages in this review where scores are marked with a #. These are suggested marks based on recent but not formal tastings and should be seen as a guide. Every bottle has its own cellaring life. Some lesser vintages, beautifully cellared, can result in something special. Poorly cellared examples of star vintages can land up with disappointment. Cork issues, oxidation, etc., can also play a part in the condition of the wine. As an auctioneer and an ‘adjunct ‘of the Penfolds Red Wine Clinics for many years, I learned that you could more or less tell whether a bottle was going shape up, just by the sheen of the bottle, the ullage levels and condition of capsules.
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1951 Penfolds Bin 1 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★ Bottled 12/2/1952
The first experimental Grange; never released commercially and extremely rare. A valuable collector’s item because of its historical significance. Rare hand-blown bottles. The wine itself is past its peak, although some bottles still have fruit sweetness and flavour length. Typically, a dull tawny colour, skeletal palate structure, virtually no fruit or flesh, and fading tannins. 100% Shiraz. Past. 50% Magill Estate, 50% Morphett Vale (Adelaide environs). 100 cases/ 3 hogsheads made. Released as Bin 1. 1952 Penfolds Bin 4 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★★ Bottled 1/5/1953 G 100 Medium-deep brick crimson. Beautiful waxy polished leather vellum roasted walnut panforte aromas with dried apricot sous bois notes. Supple and sweet with roasted walnut, panforte redcurrant, apricot, forest floor, roasted coffee flavours, fine lacy dry tannins, superb mid-palate richness and viscosity and beautiful lacy fine acidity. Perfect, beautiful wine with mineral length and feathery plume. A great Australian wine of impressive magnitude, both as a wine and as a legend. Could last another 50 years. 100% Shiraz. Drink now–2060, 13.6% alc Magill Estate/Morphett Vale. Around 100/150 cases made and retailed at less than $1 a bottle at release. Some half-bottle ‘pints’ were also produced. Released as Bin 4 and Bin 4A. The first ‘commercial’ release. 1953 Penfolds Bin 10 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★★ Bottled 22/2/54 G 96 Medium-deep brick crimson. Intense dark chocolate, sandalwood, touch musty at first but clears out, vellum, walnutty, polished mahogany, espresso touch VA (volatile acidity). Well-concentrated wine, slightly soapy with leathery, ground coffee, dried plum, bitter chocolate flavours, fine loose-knit chalky dry tannins, roasted walnut sandalwood, amontillado nutty flavours and persistent acidity. Lighter bodied than the 1952 with fine chalky residue and inky minerally complexity but beginning to dry out. Still, a great experience. Could hold for a while. 87% Shiraz/13% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–soon, 12.8% alc Magill Estate/Morphett Vale (Adelaide)/Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa). 260 cases made. Some half bottles (375 ml) were released. First vintage – and then uninterrupted – use of Kalimna fruit; hence the term ‘mother vineyard’. Released as Bin 2 (also Bins 10, 86C and 145). A Jancis Robinson, MW 20-20 wine.
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1954 Penfolds Bin 12 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★ Bottled 11/11/54
G 95
Medium-deep brick crimson. Superb old mature wine with tertiary miso- soup, orange rind, demi-glace, meaty apricot aromas with fragrant star anise notes. Well concentrated supple and sinuous wine with beautiful developed demi-glace, cola, gamey flavours with orange cola, espresso notes, integrated soft minerally acidity and superb long flavourful finish. Complete, complex and composed with lovely flowing and harmonious structure; note the early bottling date. From the cellars of Chris Aarons. A curio now. Very rare. 98% Shiraz, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now– soon, 13.2% alc Magill Estate (Adelaide)/Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley). Internal criticism of Grange led Max Schubert to lighten the style slightly. Only nine months in oak. Released as Bin 11 and Bin 12.
1955 Penfolds Bin 14 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★★ Bottled 20/11/55
G 92
Medium crimson. Fresh polished leather herb garden roasted parsnip gamey aniseed slightly soupy miso demi-glace notes with a touch of VA crushed ant. Well concentrated slightly soupy wine with gamey, roasted walnut, roasted parsnip, dark chocolaty leathery flavours, fine loose- knit but slightly sinewy tannins and long fresh acidity, some dried roses, vellum notes. Has lost its freshness but better bottles should be lying around. A very famous Australian red wine, but many examples past their prime now. Rare. 90% Shiraz, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now- soon, 12.6% alc Magill Estate (Adelaide)/Morphett Vale (Adelaide)/Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/McLaren Vale. The most decorated Grange: winner of 12 trophies and 52 gold medals during its relatively short career on the Australian wine show circuit. Spent only nine months in oak. A favourite of Max Schubert’s, partly because it won a gold medal in the Open Claret Class at the 1962 Sydney Wine Show when some members of the judging panel had previously been vocally critical of the style. Chosen by US magazine Wine Spectator as one of the 12 ‘Wines of the Millennium’. Bin 95 is the most common bottling and commercially available following great show success. Also released as Bins 13, 14, 53, 54 and 148A).
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1956 Penfolds Bin 14 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★ Bottled 14/3/1957 Variable condition with the best still showing freshness, mature developed fruit and lacy firm textures. Most now curios and past their prime. Very rare. 96% Shiraz, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Past, 13% alc Magill Estate (Adelaide)/Morphett Vale (Adelaide)/Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley). The Grange style was lightened with only nine months in oak, to meet internal criticism. Also released as Bin 53. 1957 Penfolds Bin 50 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★ Bottled 11/2/1958 This wine has mostly faded now, with advanced age and extremely frail structure. Very rare. 88% Shiraz, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. Past, 12.6% alc Magill Estate (Adelaide)/Morphett Vale (Adelaide)/McLaren Vale. The first of the three ‘Hidden Granges’; the wine was made without the knowledge of Penfolds management, who had ordered Max Schubert to cease production. Matured in the previous year’s Grange barrels. 1958 Penfolds Bin 46 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★ Bottled 27/5/1959 Now overdeveloped with maderised/sherry-like aromas and flavours. Falling apart. Very rare. 94% Shiraz, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Past, 12.6% alc Magill Estate (Adelaide)/Morphett Vale (Adelaide)/Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale. The second ‘Hidden Grange’.
1959 Bin 46 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★ Bottled 1/3/1960
G 93 #
At the end of its optimum life. Some bottles holding up with advanced maturity but fine sinewy tannins. Very Rare. 90% Shiraz, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–past, 12.5% alc Magill Estate (Adelaide)/Morphett Vale (Adelaide)/Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley). The third and final ‘Hidden Grange’. Released as Bin 46 (also Bins 49 and 95). The Bin 95 bottling was the most commercially available.
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1960 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★
Fragile old wine showing developed fruit and lacy fine textures. Some good bottles lying around. Very Rare. 92% Shiraz, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. Past, 12.8% alc Magill Estate (Adelaide)/Morphett Vale (Adelaide)/Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley). Released as Bin 95 (also as Bin 45 & 49).
1961 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★
Beautiful old Grange showing fresh developed dark chocolate panforte tobacco leaf characters and fine persistent graphite tannins. Still has mid- palate richness and amplitude. Very Rare. 88% Shiraz, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–past, 12.7% alc Magill Estate (Adelaide)/Morphett Vale (Adelaide)/Modbury Vineyard (Adelaide)/Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Coonawarra. Released as Bin 95 and Bin 395.
1962 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★★
G 94
Medium-deep brick crimson. Intense complex roasted walnut, mahogany, praline earthy amontillado demi-glace aromas with a VA lift. Rich and voluminous with deep-set dark chocolate, blackberry, mocha. Hint leather, demi-glace ground coffee sweet fruity flavours, fine loose-knit slinky dry tannins, lovely mid-palate density and long fresh integrated mineral acidity. Finishes chocolaty al dente firm long and minerally. Lovely old wine with a hint of tawny port-like notes. Animal mineral and vegetable. Rare. 87% Shiraz, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now– soon, 12.2% alc Magill Estate (Adelaide)/Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Adelaide Hills. Barossa Valley fruit becomes leading component. Released as Bin 95 (also as Bins 59, 59A and 456). The Kalimna Vineyard, purchased by Penfolds in 1945, is now the mother vineyard of Grange. Regarded as one of the great Grange vintages of the era.
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1963 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★★
G 97
Medium-deep brick crimson. Intense dark cherry kirsch, praline, roasted walnut, smoky espresso mahogany liquorice aromas with apricot notes. Well concentrated beautifully balanced wine with redcurrant, liquorice leather, praline, chinotto, coffee, stone fruit flavours, fine persistent chalky almost lacy tannins, underlying warm bitumen, roasted chestnut sweet fruit notes. Finishes sweet, and long with lovely lacy plume and mineral acidity. In perfect condition. Wonderful mature wine with superb density, viscosity and length. 100% Shiraz. Classic Grange. Drink now–soon, 13.3% Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Morphett Vale (Adelaide)/Modbury Vineyard (Adelaide). Released as Bin 95 (also as Bin 65). A late developing Grange achieving its fame in the late 1980s. 1964 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★ Overdeveloped and fading fruit with drying textures. Rare. 90% Shiraz, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Past, 12.8% alc Magill Estate (Adelaide)/Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley. Released as Bin 95 (also as Bins 395, 66, 67 and 68).
1965 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★
G 94
Medium-deep brick crimson. Intense roasted walnut panforte, hazelnut aromas with some apricot, stone fruit cedar floral notes. Generous and supple with roasted walnut, panforte, apricot flavours, fine sweet plentiful cedar tannins and underlying roasted walnut, grilled nut, vanilla oak complexity and integrated acidity. Finishes slightly leathery but chalky firm with attractive espresso, ground coffee notes and lovely mineral length. Just past its peak of development although the elements are aligned. Rare. Jimmy Watson Trophy Winner. 95% Shiraz, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Now–soon, 13.2% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Morphett Vale (Adelaide)/McLaren Vale. Released as Bin 95 (also as Bins 69, 70 and 71).
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The Vintage Journal – Verticals
1966 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★★
G 93
Medium-deep brick crimson. Intense but slightly muddy redcurrant, walnutty, polished mahogany, leather aromas with liquorice notes. Touch of VA. Well concentrated curranty wine with roasted walnut, liquorice all sorts, sweet fruit, leather polish herb sage flavours, fine slightly fractured chalky tannins, underlying sweet vanilla oak notes. Chalky firm slightly chewy sinewy finish. Beginning to fade. Rare. 88% Shiraz, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2028, 13.4% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Morphett Vale (Adelaide). Released as Bin 95 (also as Bins 71 and 72).
1967 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★
G 92
Deep crimson. Intense dark chocolate, dark cherry, roasted walnut vanilla aromas with nutmeg spice, polished leather notes. Generous, inky and supple with roasted walnut redcurrant, dried mushroom, leather spice tawny amontillado crème brûlée flavours, fine sinewy dry chalky tannins, attractive mid-palate richness and long integrated mineral acidity. Finishes chalky al dente firm with long supple lacy inky graphite plume. 94% Shiraz, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2028, 12.7% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Clare Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide). Won the Jimmy Watson Trophy at the Melbourne Show in 1968, the second time in three years. Released as Bin 95 (also Bin 74). 1968 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★ Some bottles holding but mainly past. Drink up. 94% Shiraz, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Past, 12.1% alc. Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Clare Valley/Adelaide Hills/Coonawarra. Released as Bin 95 (also as Bin 826). 1969 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★ Never a great Grange year and well past its best. Drink up. 95% Shiraz, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Past, 12.4% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Clare Valley/Morphett Valle (Adelaide)/Coonawarra. Released as Bin 95 (also as Bin 826).
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1970 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★
Lived in the shadow of the 1971 vintage and never achieved a big reputation. Starting to maderise and lose freshness. Drink up. 90% Shiraz, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Past, 11.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide). Penfolds standardises Grange bottlings to the single designation of Bin 95.
1971 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★★
G 98
Deep crimson. Lovely fresh roasted walnut praline, earthy waxy leather aromas with nutty vanilla espresso spicy oak salted liquorice notes. Superbly concentrated inky deep wine with deep-set dark chocolate espresso/ground coffee roasted walnut vanilla spice waxy leather flavours, fine persistent chalky but supple tannins, superb sweet fruit/ oak complexity and long fresh integrated acidity. Finishes chalky firm. Superb old wine with wonderful complexity, richness and vigour. Will last. 87% Shiraz, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2030+, 11.8%/12.3% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Clare Valley/Coonawarra. ‘If you had to point to a wine which fulfilled the ambitions of Grange, it would have to be the 1971.’ (Max Schubert, 1993) Topped the Gault-Millau Wine Olympiad in Paris in 1979, beating some of the best Rhône wines and creating a sensation. This vintage was used as an alternative investment indicator by Australia’s Deloitte Access Economics during the 1990s. 1972 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★ G 91 Some bottles still holding, but most past their best now. Drink up. 90% Shiraz, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–soon, 12% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Modbury Vineyard (Adelaide)/Coonawarra. A very good Grange vintage. Reportedly, a batch was unintentionally oxidised during bottling, resulting in significant bottle variation.
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1973 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★ Mostly past, with the structure now overtaking the fruit. Drink up. 98% Shiraz, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Past, 12.4% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Modbury Vineyard (Adelaide). Last vintage entirely vinified in open wax-lined concrete fermenters (before barrel fermentation) at Magill Estate.
1974 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★
The wine has mostly faded now, with only a few bottles still drinking moderately well. 93% Shiraz, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. Past, 12.1% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide). Winemaking is transferred to Nuriootpa; typically, vinification in small stainless steel fermenters, and fermentation completed in new oak hogsheads. 1975 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★ A sturdy Grange with surprising richness and muscular frame. Barnyard notes are beginning to dominate, but some good bottles around. 90% G 94 Shiraz, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–soon, 13.4% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Coonawarra. 1976 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★★ Deep crimson. Fresh dark chocolate liquorice leather spice apricot, orange peel spice nutmeg aromas with black olive/kirsch-like notes. Generous dark chocolate, panforte liquorice, sweet leather, roasted walnut, herb garden notes, fine animated chalky firm sinuous tannins, chocolaty mocha spice nuances and fresh mineral persistent acidity. Finishes chocolaty dry with savoury grilled nut notes. 89% Shiraz, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2045, 13.9% alc 1977 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★ G 93 G 97 Now looking overdeveloped; the fruit richness has faded, revealing drying tannins and marked acidity. Drink up. 91% Shiraz, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon . Drink now–past, 13.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Clare Valley. The last Grange to be entered into the Australian Wine Show System.
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1978 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★★
G 96
Deep crimson. Roasted chestnut, apricot, sesame, dark chocolate, tawny ground coffee aromas with leather spice notes. Lovely richly complex wine with deep-set, roasted chestnut, espresso liquorice, dark fruits, fine plentiful chocolaty tannins, malty vanilla/mocha oak complexity and long mineral acidity. Finishes chalky/slightly drying firm and inky long with espresso/soy demi-glace notes. In really good place right now. Lovely mature Grange. 90% Shiraz 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2035, 13.3% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ McLaren Vale/Clare Valley/Coonawarra. The first vintage-dated ‘Grange Hermitage’ corks are introduced.
1979 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★
G 94
Not a classic Grange, but still showing fresh dark chocolate cedar, dark fruits and fine-grained lacy tannins. Should last for a while longer. 87% Shiraz 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2025, 12.9% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Clare Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/McLaren Vale. Magnums first released. Last vintage using bottles with off-white foil capsules.
1980 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★
G 90
Richly concentrated with dark chocolate, panforte hint mint notes, fine persistent powdery tannins. Still has density and richness but the energy is flagging. Drink up. 96% Shiraz, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now, 12.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Clare Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/McLaren Vale/Coonawarra.
1981 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★
G 95
A sturdy Grange with plentiful dark chocolate, dark berry, dried fruits, graphite characters and dense powerful firm tannins. Will continue to hold. 89% Shiraz, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2025, 12.7% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Modbury Vineyard (Adelaide)/Clare Valley, Coonawarra.
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The Vintage Journal – Verticals
1982 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★
G 93
Medium-deep crimson. Fresh red cherry, blackberry herb garden aromas with roasted walnut panforte chinotto notes. Generous supple wine with deep-set red cherry, blackberry redcurrant fruits, fine roasted chestnut vanilla notes and fine chalky dry tannins. Finishes minerally and long with attractive tannin plume. Still looking fresh with unusual cherry stone raspberry kirsch notes. 94% Shiraz, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2040, 13.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Modbury Vineyard (Adelaide)/Clare Valley.
1983 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★★
G 94
Medium-deep crimson. Intense dark chocolate, blackberry shellac, hazelnut herb garden aromas with some cola dust graphite notes. Inky- textured wine with developed dark chocolate, blackberry hazelnut crème brûlée flavours with some red liquorice notes, plentiful fine chalky lacy textures, attractive inky complexity on the mid-palate and long fresh extra-fine acidity. Finishes chalky dry with apricot graphite notes. Supple and sweet fruited. Bushfire year. 94% Shiraz, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2045, 13.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Modbury Vineyard (Adelaide).
1984 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★
G 93
Not a classic Grange but still showing dark berry roasted walnut mocha aromas, attractive richness and firm persistent tannins. 95% Shiraz, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink soon, 14.2% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ McLaren Vale/Clare Valley/Coonawarra
1985 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★
G 90
The tannins are now dominating the palate, although there is some fruit richness and mocha oak complexity. 99% Shiraz, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now, 13.1% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Clare Valley/Modbury Vineyard (Adelaide).
Penfolds Grange
25
1986 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★★★
G 96
Deep crimson. Fresh evolved blackberry dark chocolate aromas with mocha, roasted chestnut, liquorice notes and herb garden nuances. Richly concentrated, dense and powerful with pronounced dark chocolate, mocha, blackberry liquorice flavours, fine muscular dry tannin, meaty dried herb complexity and underlying roasted chestnut, vanilla oak notes. Very firm chocolaty graphite finish with attractive inky plume. 87% Shiraz, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2050, 13.9% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Clare Valley/McLaren Vale/ Modbury Vineyard (Adelaide). Don Ditter’s last Grange.
1987 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★
G 92
A strongly tannic Grange with concentrated dark chocolate, dark fruit, herb, mint flavours and sappy leafy textures. 90% Shiraz, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–soon, 13.8% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale.
1988 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★
G 94
A rich and voluminous wine with plentiful dark fruits, dark chocolate, raisin and mocha, vigorous firm tannins and attractive sweet fruit finish. 94% Shiraz, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2028, 13.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Padthaway/McLaren Vale.
1989 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Hermitage – South Australia ★★★
G 94
Medium-deep crimson. Fresh dark chocolate, dark cherry, plum, panforte aromas with herb garden sage notes. Well concentrated wine with deep-set fleshy raspberry, dark plum dark cherry fruits, beautiful fine chocolaty but vigorous tannins, mocha coconut oak complexity notes, attractive sweet fruit viscosity and soft but persistent acidity. Finishes chocolaty firm with blackcurrant pastille leafy notes. 91% Shiraz, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2040, 13.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale. The last vintage labelled as ‘Grange Hermitage’; future vintages are release as ‘Grange’.
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The Vintage Journal – Verticals
1990 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★★★
G 100
Medium-deep crimson. Intense decadent blackberry, dried plum, grilled nut, shellac, walnut panforte cherry liqueur chinotto aromas with roasted chestnut vanilla notes. Blackberry dark chocolate, panforte, grilled nut, shellac flavours, chocolaty tannins and mocha vanilla spice oak notes, completely balanced acidity. Firm chocolaty sweet finish with plenty of mineral length. Generous dense supple wine with extraordinary fruit density and attack. One of the greatest. 95% Shiraz, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2060, 13.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Clare Valley/Coonawarra. Voted Red Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator magazine in December 1995.
1991 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★★★
G 99
Deep colour. Intense complex black cherry, blackberry, dark chocolate aromas with roasted walnut, liquorice aromas. Dense and spectacularly balanced wine with black cherry blackberry fruits, some apricot notes, plentiful supple chocolaty tannins, lovely mid-palate generosity and underlying fresh acidity. Finishes chalky firm with superb apricotty, vanilla, mocha notes. Beautifully balanced wine with all elements in perfect balance. A great Grange vintage. 95% Shiraz, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2050, 13.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale. A worthy sparring partner to the more famous 1990.
1992 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★★
G 94
Deep crimson. Intense blackberry, cherry, mulberry aromas with dark chocolate vanilla spice oak with graphite notes. Concentrated blackberry dark cherry dark chocolate grilled nut flavours with malty vanilla oak notes, fine loose-knit but dense chalky tannins, some smoky, leafy, fresh tobacco notes, pronounced acidity and firm dry slightly leafy inky finish. A sturdy Grange built for the long haul. 90% Shiraz, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2050, 13.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Coonawarra/McLaren Vale.
Penfolds Grange
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1993 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★
G 93
Deep crimson. Attractive forward raspberry strawberry red cherry black forest panforte dried rose aromas with some mocha vanilla notes. Generous supple sweet-fruited wine with seductive red cherry, raspberry, dark cherry liqueur fruits, fine ample slightly al dente leafy textures and underlying mocha, vanilla marzipan oak complexity. Finishes sweet and long with lovely balanced acidity. Generously flavoured wine with lovely viscosity, opulence and dried roses, herb garden sage notes. Not a great vintage, but pleasurable! 86% Shiraz, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2030, 13.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Coonawarra. Contains the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in Grange Hermitage/Shiraz history.
1994 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★★
G 95
Deep crimson. Fresh dark cherry, mulberry, blackberry aromas with espresso mocha dark chocolate notes. Expressive wine with dense fleshy mulberry blackberry graphite, espresso flavours, fine dense persistent tannins and integrated vanilla, roasted coffee, mocha oak complexity. Finishes chocolaty firm, long and sweet. Muscular and dense with plenty of sweet fruit and richness for further ageing. Regarded as a classic Grange vintage. 89% Shiraz, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2045, 13.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale/Coonawarra.
1995 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★
G 92
Deep crimson. Intense graphite herb garden mulberry blackberry fruits with dark chocolate, mocha liquorice notes. Generous and supple with blackberry mulberry sage flavours, fine plentiful gritty muscular tannins and mocha dark chocolate oak notes. Finishes brambly gravelly firm with attractive sweet fruit. The structure is the dominant force in this wine but the fruit is still clinging to the bones. Not a great vintage. 94% Shiraz, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2040, 13.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide).
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The Vintage Journal – Verticals
1996 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★★★
G 98
Deep crimson. Fresh smoky coffee, mocha, blackberry graphite aromas with liquorice herb garden complexity. Generous and supple with dark cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, dark plum fruits, fine plentiful chalky tannins, sweet mocha vanilla oak, superb mid-palate density and salted liquorice grilled nut complexity, Finishes grainy firm and dry with persistent sweet apricot, mulberry fruit. One of the great vintages of the 1990s. 94% Shiraz, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2050, 14.2% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale/Magill Estate (Adelaide). Maturation of Grange temporarily discontinued at Magill.
1997 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★
G 90
Deep crimson. Meaty, leafy red cherry, redcurrant graphite tobacco tawny aromas with herb garden aniseed, iodine/seaweed/soy notes. Well concentrated redcurrant, red cherry mocha flavours with soy demi-glace amontillado notes, fine lacy al dente sinewy tannins and underlying coconut vanilla oak nuances. Finishes sinewy firm dry with soupy demi-glace meaty soy notes. 96% Shiraz, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2035, 14% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale/Limestone Coast.
1998 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★★★
G 98
Deep crimson. Intense dark plum mulberry, blackberry, roasted chestnut, tobacco with chinotto, negroni liquorice notes. Beautifully balanced wine with mulberry black cherry blackberry dry chinotto fruits, fine loose-knit chalky textures, attractive density on the mid-palate with dark chocolate, mocha oak complexity. Finishes chocolaty with a superb long tannin plume. A superbly balanced Grange with sweet ripe fruit, perfect attuned oak and integrated tannins and acidity. Supple and seamless in structure. 97% Shiraz, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2055, 14.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/Magill Estate (Adelaide)/ Padthaway
Penfolds Grange
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1999 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★★★
G 100
Deep crimson. Lifted black cherry blackberry, black olive aromas with grilled nut coconut, mocha spicy oak notes. Well concentrated blackberry, dark cherry mulberry black olive, liquorice flavours, fine vigorous but dense chalky tannins, lovely generous mid-palate viscosity and underlying grilled nut, mocha vanilla marzipan oak complexity. Finishes chocolaty firm with lovely sweet fruit. A substantial Grange framed by strong persistent tannins. Should overhaul the 1998 in years to come! 100% Shiraz. Drink now–2065, 14.5% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale/Padthaway
2000 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★
G 92
Attractive redcurrant, mocha, tobacco-leaf notes, and fine bitter-sweet tannins. Still has viscosity but only medium weighted. Atypical rather than classic, but still shows Grange resilience. Controversial when released, but this vintage illustrates the strength of Penfolds sourcing and classification of fruit. 100% Barossa Valley Shiraz. Drink now–2028+, 14% alc Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/Barossa Valley.
2001 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★
G 92
Deep crimson. Blackberry bloody meat charcuterie redcurrant red cherry aromas with chinotto, cola notes with hint of mint/sage. Well concentrated but medium bodied Grange with redcurrant red cherry cola flavours, fine vigorous but slight leafy bitter-sweet tannins, mocha oak complexity and pronounced acidity. Finishes muscular firm but long and sweet. A substantial Grange with strong firm slightly sappy/fur-ball tannins. 99% Shiraz, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2050, 14.5% alc 50% Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/50% Barossa Valley. One of the hottest growing seasons since the 1920s. McLaren Vale had its highest mean January temperature since 1915. The Sydney Morning Herald named Max Schubert in its top 100 most influential Australians of the 20th century.
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The Vintage Journal – Verticals
2002 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★★★
G 97
Deep crimson. Fresh dark cherry, blackberry, graphite aromas with some dark chocolate, herb garden chinotto notes – a hint of sage and violets. Inky sweet wine with supple dark cherry, mulberry, blackberry praline espresso flavours, fine persistent chalky velvet tannins, attractive roasted meat, chinotto, dried herb notes, mid-palate richness and persistent long slinky finish. Lovely wine with superb fruit complexity and mineral length. Elegance and power. 98.5% Shiraz, 1.5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2050, 14.5% alc 50% Kalimna Vineyard (Barossa Valley)/50% Barossa Valley.
G 91
2003 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★
Deep crimson. Dark fruits earthy, silage, forest floor aromas with graphite dark chocolate notes, nutty notes. Well concentrated but atypical Grange with black cherry fruits, dark chocolate espresso sous bois silage flavours, fine soupy firm textures, mocha roasted nut oak and integrated long acidity. Finishes chalky al dente powdery cocoa firm but minerally. Moderate year for Grange. Medium potential. 97% Shiraz, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2030, 14.5% alc Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale/Langhorne Creek/Coonawarra/Magill Estate (Adelaide).
G 98
2004 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★★★
Deep crimson. Attractive blackberry boysenberry, mulberry aromas with dark chocolate, mocha notes. Rich ripe blackberry, boysenberry, liquorice flavours, fine dense chocolaty tannins and underlying espresso vanilla creamy oak notes. Finishes chocolaty gravelly firm with superb flavour length. Developing some really lovely apricot stone fruit notes. This is a substantial well-balanced Grange where the tannins and fruit intertwine in perfect symmetry. 96% Shiraz, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2028– 2060, 14.3% alc Barossa Valley (including a substantial proportion of Kalimna Shiraz)/McLaren Vale/Magill Estate (Adelaide). A significant contribution of Block 42 Cabernet Sauvignon!
Penfolds Grange
31
2005 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★★
G 94
Deep crimson. Intense blackberry, dark chocolate liquorice panforte aromas with roasted nut star anise complexity. Generously proportioned wine with dark chocolate blackberry roasted coffee flavours, fine dense chocolaty tannins and underlying savoury roasted chestnut vanilla coconut oak notes. Finishes chocolaty/grainy firm with liqueur kirsch- like notes. Still surprisingly in parts. 96% Shiraz, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2028–2050, 14.5% alc Barossa Valley (including substantial proportion of Kalimna Shiraz)/McLaren Vale/Coonawarra.
G 99
2006 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★★★
Deep crimson. Deep blackberry, mulberry dark chocolate liquorice with herb garden. Beautifully concentrated and generous blackberry mulberry, liquorice flavours, fine plentiful rich persistent chalky tannins, attractive inky complexity and buoyancy on the mid-palate and fresh roasted walnut, mocha vanilla oak notes. Finishes chalky firm with long graphite tannin plume. A superb vintage. 100% Shiraz. Drink 2030–2065, 14.5% alc 98% Barossa Valley (including significant contributions from Kalimna and Koonunga Hill vineyards)/2% Magill Estate (Adelaide).
G 90
2007 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz – South Australia ★★★
Deep crimson. Intense cedar herb garden black cherry blackberry aromas with mocha, liquorice, grilled nut complexity. Rich and flavourful with black cherry, blackberry, cedar flavours, fine grained al dente cedary tannins, underlying core of sweet fruit and balanced mocha oak complexity. Finishes chalky gritty firm with herb cola chinotto notes. Sinewy wine with strong tannin whack. 98% Shiraz, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2030–2060, 14.5% alc Barossa Valley/McLaren Vale/Magill Estate (Adelaide).
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The Vintage Journal – Verticals
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