While reviewing the wines, I was surprised at the number enclosed under cork. Around 30% of the shiraz bottlings were sealed under traditional or technical cork types. This may have been a result of the timing of my review, the fact that some wines destined for China never left the quay-side, or there is an increasing view that the best red wines, made for the long term, should be sealed with cork. Having spent every year in Bordeaux to taste the grand cru wines since the early 2000s, I can see the benefit of cork-aging, but on the other hand, screw cap and vino-lok seals guarantee freshness and taint-free wines. The argument on each side has validity, and in the end it should be up to the winemaker to decide how they wish to frame their wine. Barossa Cabernet and Cabernet blends are often seen as a supplementary offering, but in great years they really do shine. They have an intensity, richness of flavour, and torque that are massively appealing. While Henschke and Rockford (and occasionally Penfolds) are benchmarks, the region can boast many others which show great character and definition. Elderton, Kaesler, Whistler, and Wolf Blass come to mind. Barossa Grenache and Rhône-style blends are increasingly in vogue. Styles vary, highlighting different approaches to winemaking and benchmark referencing. On our visit to the Barossa, we visited Alkina and enjoyed the results of their quest to make wines of singularity and character, but others, like Kalleske, Murray Street, Planta Circa, Schwartz Wine Company, and Z Wines, show that this whole genre is kaleidoscopic and offers wide appeal. The resonating and beautifully made Cirillo Grenache wines, based on the oldest known surviving Grenache vines in the world, are on track to become one of the region’s star single-vineyard wines. Not least are the Barossa’s Eden Valley Rieslings, which are generally magnificent. Although Henschke, Pewsey, and Orlando’s Steingarten epitomise the genre, Riesling Freak is a story of our times, offering great expressions of the variety while standing for everything that makes the Barossa region such an appealing place to grow and make wine. For several years now, the Barossa has aimed to develop its reputation in both the Australian and international wine markets. It is without question the most well-known of our wine regions. Its potential is also
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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