is Yalumba’s The Octavius Shiraz, which will be launched through La Place de Bordeaux in September with the 2018 vintage. The inclusion of 1854 shiraz material in the wine is mindboggling to the Bordeaux négociants who live their lives through the prism of the 1855 Bordeaux Classification. Other labels also show wonderful promise as regional stalwarts. Chateau Tanunda has impressively pushed forward the Barossa’s old vine agenda. Soul Growers is also making wines of beautiful complexity and character. Alex Head, once my auction manager at Langton’s, has shown great fortitude and persistence in creating modern classics. An embarrassment of riches would be the best way to describe Barossa Shiraz. Few disappoint, most are pleasing, and many are exceptional. Among the standout performers are Arila Gardens, John Duval Wines, Gibson, Michael Hall Wines, Hare’s Chase, Laughing Jack, St Hugo, Max & Me, Orlando, Paulmara, Planta Circa, Poonawatta, Rosenvale, Sons of Eden, Tarrawatta, Thistledown, and Thorne-Clarke. The shiraz wines tasted in this review were, in general, very well made and possessing indisputable regional characteristics. The superb aromatics, buoyancy of fruit, and chocolaty textures reflect a place where the variety has found a perfect home. While winemakers inevitably are trying to find a style that suits their own source blocks and vineyards, the best examples are the shirazes that show varietal definition, richness of flavour, and suppleness. These come in all sorts of guises, but ultimately there is a uniformity in quality, reflecting skill, experience, and the benefits of technological breakthroughs over the years. There are of course outliers: some which are picked early or made with Burgundian- type techniques. Wine enjoyment is much like music, and if made well, will always find a fan base. The 2018 vintage, some released this year, has proved exceptional, and has been followed up by a very decent 2019 vintage. Very good wines were made in 2020, but the cool-to-mild and longer growing season leading up to the 2021 vintage contributed significantly to the lovely gloss, buoyancy, and freshness of these wines. Many will have very good ageing potential.
Barossa 2024
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