to the 1888-planted Kalimna Block 42 vineyard and c1890s Woodlands Zimmerman Vineyard, highlighted visions for claret-type wines, which were also popular in England. As the wine market changed with social expectations and living standards, so too did wine styles. The evolution of Barossa Shiraz over the last 40 years, for instance, highlights a compounding rate of knowledge in all aspects of viticulture, winemaking, and wine trade. When I recently tasted a series of Hill of Grace vintages dating back to 1958, I was struck by the continuity of quality, the impact of the growing seasons, and the fidelity of the vineyard site. On a more subliminal level were the topics of sustainability, winemaking techniques, oak maturation, and heritage. The natural sovereignty of the local Aboriginal community was also respectfully acknowledged. Not all of these things intrinsically change the biochemistry of wine, but ultimately the experience of fine wine is all about a voice of place. The taste of Hill of Grace Shiraz hasn’t really changed that much in 60 years, but the feeling about the wine – what it stands for and its place in the pantheon of fine wine – has transformed immeasurably. The experience is, therefore, massively different today than 25 years ago.
Ultimately, the experience of fine wine is all about a voice of place.
Barossa Shiraz is one of Australia’s most important wine types, and it is unsurprising that this review is overwhelmingly dominated by this genre. Over the last 40 years, the secondary wine market has also acknowledged Barossa Shiraz as the leading collectible wine at auction. Barossa Valley Estate, Glaetzer, Grant Burge, Elderton, Greenock Creek, St Hallett, Henschke, Kaesler, Kalleske, Langmeil, Peter Lehmann, Charles Melton, Pewsey Vale, Chris Ringland, Rockford, Penfold’s Seppeltsfield, Standish, Torbreck, Turkey Flat, and Yalumba are all strongly associated with the Barossa’s fabric and reputation. This is a credit to the region’s community, who have built remarkable credibility by creating authentic wines with impressive backstories. Among those
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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