Although the frosts created mayhem and panic, other great challenges were faced during the cool growing season resulting in further crop losses. Although rainfall was generally average (believe it or not) and temperatures only lower by around 1°C (compared to the three previous vintages), it was the pattern of wet weather that really challenged vignerons. It was heavy rainfall in May (102mm) and June (166mm!) that made a difference. Usually, these two months are relatively dry, with no more than 60mm of rain during the same period. Vigorous growth was experienced throughout the region during a warm late spring and early June. A torrential storm on June 19th led to significantly humid conditions and disease pressure. Outbreaks of mildew were inevitable. From the outset, vignerons were on a high vigilance/ monitoring routine. Regular but prudent spraying of Bordeaux mixture (light copper-based) mitigated the spread of disease. Biodynamic producers, including Ch Pontet Canet in Pauillac or Ch Smith Haut Lafitte in Pessac-Léognan, employed natural preparations including horsetail herbal infusions and willow and alder decoctions, etc. This approach, if it proves to work well, will become more ever-present in Bordeaux. There is definitely a strong move towards sustainable practices and new ways of working. These mildew outbreaks caused great concern throughout the growing season. Typically, the downy mildew pathogen Plasmopara viticola attacks young shoots and forms “oil spots” on leaves. It is particularly virulent in cooler wet regions. A white downy “sporulation” accompanies these yellow blotches, causing the leaves to fall off and die, leaving the clusters of grapes exposed to the sun. The disease prevents the grapes from ripening and can create 100% crop losses in vineyards if the vines are not treated. Although budburst was relatively early, the cold weather in July (the coldest in 25 years) also delayed ripening. For a while, there were worrying signs that the vintage could be a write-off. The merlot grapes in many vineyards were also badly damaged by rain (causing coulure and millerandage). By mid-August, mostly dry summer conditions prevailed across the Bordeaux region during veraison (when the berries change colour).
Although rains were forecast in September and October, they were minimal. All the same, some vignerons picked earlier to avoid economic risk, but those who held out – like Ch Figeac – were rewarded by dry, warm weather and further ripening of the fruit and tannins. This made a crucial difference. The very best wines of the vintage are related to the maturity of phenolics (pips and skins). According to a story told by Pierre-Olivier Clouet of Ch Cheval Blanc, the great oenology professor Émile Peynaud observed that merlot and cabernet performed differently in the rain, merlot like a strawberry and cabernet like an apple. This analogy largely explains the challenge of the season and why many of the very top Saint-Émilions comprise unusually large proportions of cabernet franc in their blends. The threat of botrytis and more mayhem forced many vignerons to pick merlot a little earlier than expected. At Ch Palmer, the yields were modest, but the grapes were healthy; the tannins and fruit quality are excellent. At harvest time, it was experience (Ch Ducru Beaucaillou has been using the same picking team for 30 years), vigilance and technology that determined the final outcome of the growing season. Sorting and optical sorting machines – sometimes both in the vineyard and at the crusher – weeded out underripe or damaged berries. Some estates, like Ch Cheval
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The Vintage Journal – International Series
Bordeaux 2022
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Pomerol’s rising star – Château Séraphine
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