Lafitte in Pessac-Léognan, employed natural preparations including horsetail herbal infusions and willow and alder decoctions, etc. This approach, if it proves to work well, will become more ever-present in Bordeaux. There is definitely a strong move towards sustainable practices and new ways of working. These mildew outbreaks caused great concern throughout the growing season. Typically, the downy mildew pathogen Plasmopara viticola attacks young shoots and forms “oil spots” on leaves. It is particularly virulent in cooler wet regions. A white downy “sporulation” accompanies these yellow blotches, causing the leaves to fall off and die, leaving the clusters of grapes exposed to the sun. The disease prevents the grapes from ripening and can create 100% crop losses in vineyards if the vines are not treated. Although budburst was relatively early, the cold weather in July (the coldest in 25 years) also delayed ripening. For a while, there were worrying signs that the vintage could be a write-off. The merlot grapes in many vineyards were also badly damaged by rain (causing coulure and millerandage). By mid-August, mostly dry summer conditions prevailed across the Bordeaux region during veraison (when the berries change colour). Although rains were forecast in September and October, they were minimal. All the same, some vignerons picked earlier to avoid economic risk, but those who held out – like Ch Figeac – were rewarded by dry, warm weather and further ripening of the fruit and tannins. This made a crucial difference. The very best wines of the vintage are related to the maturity of phenolics (pips and skins). According to a story told by Pierre-Olivier Clouet of Ch Cheval Blanc, the great oenology professor Émile Peynaud observed that merlot and cabernet performed differently in the rain, merlot like a strawberry and cabernet like an apple. This analogy largely explains the challenge of the season and why many of the very top Saint-Émilions comprise unusually large proportions of cabernet franc in their blends.
68 The Wine Journal – 2023 Pomerol’s rising star – Château Séraphine
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