The Wine Journal 2023

while many vineyards were exposed to the black frosts of 6th–8th April, more than a few châteaux avoided the disaster altogether. Ch Pontet Canet, Ch Montrose, Ch d’Issan and others exposed to the warming effect of Gironde Estuary were spared. Ch Troplong Mondot’s elevated vineyards in Saint-Émilion experienced normal yields. Yet at nearby Ch Quinault L’Enclos, early bud burst and stagnant air (promoted by a walled environment) led to half of its crop lost overnight. Nature can be cruel. Although the frosts created mayhem and panic, other great challenges were faced during the cool growing season resulting in further crop losses. Although rainfall was generally average (believe it or not) and temperatures only lower by around 1°C (compared to the three previous vintages), it was the pattern of wet weather that really challenged vignerons. It was heavy rainfall in May (102mm) and June (166mm!) that made a difference. Usually, these two months are relatively dry, with no more than 60mm of rain during the same period. Vigorous growth was experienced throughout the region during a warm late spring and early June. A torrential storm on June 19th led to significantly humid conditions and disease pressure. Outbreaks of mildew were inevitable. From the outset, vignerons were on a high vigilance/ monitoring routine. Regular but prudent spraying of Bordeaux mixture (light copper-based) mitigated the spread of disease. Biodynamic producers, including Ch Pontet Canet in Pauillac or Ch Smith Haut

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