Cabernet Sauvignon / Blends Margaret River Cabernet has been an important Australian ultra-fine wine style, almost from the very beginning. Moss Wood, Cullen, and Vasse Felix are reference styles, each bringing a different slant on the Wilyabrup terroir. Increasingly, Leeuwin Estate, Xanadu, Cape Mentelle, and Voyager Estate are becoming important, reflecting extraordinary investment in viticulture and winemaking on the southern fringes of Margaret River township. Ten years ago, the styles around here were quite sinewy, but tannin management and more intuitive winemaking have improved the quality to a much higher level. Deep Woods and Cloudburst have also added diversity and interest through their ground-breaking and high-profile successes. Howard Park’s impressive flagship Abercrombie Cabernet is increasingly based on its Leston Vineyard at Wilyabrup. Also, there are other producers making Cabernet at an extremely high level, particularly Amelia Park, Robert Mann’s Corymbia, Graylyn, Flametree, Forester Estate, Flowstone, Jilyara, Juniper, Lenton Brae, Moss Brothers, Oates Ends, Rosabrook, Thompson Estate, Robert Oatley, Passel Estate, the unusually named UMAMU, and Wills Domain. (Again, Woodlands and Pierro are not present here, but they both have very good reputations.) Although I am only newly acquainted with some of these producers, the tasting reviews reveal the strength and diversity of Margaret River Cabernet. The quality of the wines suggests significant investment in vineyards and winemaking. The increasing interest in sub- regional differences is bound to take centre stage in the coming years. Shiraz Margaret River Shiraz is less definable than Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Cape Mentelle, Vasse Felix, and Leeuwin Estate have been working with the variety for a long time and are achieving very good results. Windance, Forrester Estate, and Deep Woods are also achieving some good outcomes. SOURCES The Australian Ark Project (2022) Margaret River Wine Association (2022)
160 The Wine Journal – 2023
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