The Wine Journal 2023

environmental footprint. Landcare and environmental stewardship are increasingly becoming an important feature of Australia’s fine wine agenda, and Margaret River is a leading protagonist for a sustainable future. This also includes recognition, collaboration, and support of local Wadandi people. Despite all of this, Margaret River is a small cog in the wheel, and only accounts for roughly 2% of the Australian grape crush, yet it punches well above its weight with the amount of show awards and trophies it achieves on the national wine circuit. According to wine merchant John Jens, one of Western Australia’s most distinguished wine experts, ‘Since 2014, the West has won 41 of the past 51 Best Cabernet Trophies. From memory only one of these Cabernet Trophies was from Great Southern – the rest being from Margaret River.’ Margaret River Chardonnay, up against a wealth of outstanding styles from eastern States, has also notched up some impressive results, accounting for almost half (49%) of trophies at national wine shows since 2014. In addition, there have been six (Melbourne Royal Wine Show/Awards) Jimmy Watson Trophy winners, all based on Cabernet Sauvignon.

JIMMY WATSON WINNERS 1982 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 1983 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 1997 Flametree Cabernet Merlot, Margaret River 2009 Joseph River Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 2014 Deep Woods Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River 2016 Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River

Authenticity Margaret River’s reputation ultimately hinges on Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Although there are various selections and clones planted in the region, by far the most plentiful are based on Gingin chardonnay and Houghton Selection cabernet sauvignon. These special selections, based on 19th-century provenance, lead to wines of exceptional authenticity and an easily recognisable identity. The ripe grapefruit aromatics, generous mid palate, al dente textures, and precise fresh acidity are common features found in Margaret River Chardonnay. Equally, Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon evokes a keen scent of place. The fresh pure blackcurrant aromas, superb inky density, and vigorous structure are typical. Although medium-bodied, the flavours fill out the mid palate with varying levels of new oak, bringing nuanced complexity. Sub regional differences also bring further interest, particularly from a tannin structure point of view. (The cooler sites tend to be more vigorous in style.)

Margaret River 157

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