The Wine Journal 2023

and energy in Cullen wines. Although this cannot be proven by science (yet), the wines emit a feeling of place. But care of the land and ways of working towards sustainability cannot be defined by a single philosophy. The nature of learning and innovation promotes adaptation and new ways of thinking. Vasse Felix is on the way to becoming wholly organic, and the Lilliputian Cloudburst has taken its own hands- on approach to sustainability, borrowing from almost every book on the subject. Cape Mentelle has taken another approach by embracing science, technology, and AI machine learning. Laser sensors are attached to machinery to chart biomass in the vineyard and ascertain bud numbers, potential canopy growth, and grape crop weight. Soil mapping, climatic data, ‘Growing Degree Days’, and block-by-block analysis are all overlain to establish patterns of vine growth. Data is run through an algorithm to provide a vineyard performance dashboard. It can be accessed by iPhone or iPad in the field and used to plan or direct vineyard operations throughout the vineyard cycle. Areas of poor vitality can be composted, while more vigorous vines can carry a heavier crop load. Vineyard blocks with low soil moistures can be given supplementary water while preserving this limited resource. Herbicides are not needed, and compaction of soils is limited through less vineyard pass-throughs. This also leads to a significant reduction in diesel fuel costs and increased attention to biodiversity and regenerative practices. Voyager Estate is also trialling similar technologies and practices, including the use of Go-Pro cameras and machine learning to predict yields and identify growing patterns in their vineyards. At Leeuwin Estate, regenerative agriculture is a strong focus. Of note, also, is its commitment to sustainability and conservation. The previously neatly managed vineyards have become a ‘mess’ of vine health, biodiversity, and energy, but the quality of fruit, as the wines attest, has progressed. Similar regenerative work at Howard Park has also led to positive results.

Cape Mentelle (Photo Russell Ord)

152 The Wine Journal – 2023

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