our 19th century vinestock heritage. The handing down of experience, traditions and collaborations through six or even seven generations of Australians has had a profound effect on the way we see ourselves and want to be seen. And this interpretation of our place and ambitions in wine are portrayed by the wines we make, how we make them, and how we share them. The definition of single vineyard wines, the wide belief in sustainable practices, the development of new technologies and shared ambitions of a more inclusive society are all part of this journey. But we also need to adapt, share, and include. In the context of First Nations people, we nurture a land that was essentially taken away from them. Wine is not really a part of their culture, but the land is, and those ancient soils are connected to their spirituality as much as they are to the expressions of our wines. Their ancient sovereignty should co-exist, and this should be recognised. Perhaps we should start with co-naming wine regions or developing sub regional names in honour of their traditional landowners. Our old vine legacy cannot be taken for granted, and neither can those ancient soils. Living things must be nurtured. Over the last 10–15 years, many winemakers have focused strongly on sustainability. Technology is being employed to predict outbreaks of disease and forecast yields. The development of autonomous vehicles and drones, new improved clones, new varieties, and techniques to adapt to climate change all show opportunity for investment and progress. As will circularity, the efficient cycling of product from paddock to recycling, repurposing, and composting. Of course, efficiencies in energy, labour and environmental footprint are all part of this process. This will be led by the larger corporates, including retailers who have the resources to improve circularity in the community. But many smaller agricultural businesses and communities will also lead the way in sustainable and environmental practices. When I look at the boom-and-bust cycles over the last 200 or more years, and the challenges of our environments, we must aim to ‘premiumise’ our wines more broadly. We cannot remain in the groove of being a commodity winemaker. Our natural resources are finite and they must be protected for the benefit of all. But this can only happen with more responsible consumption and respect for the land. The Australian wine industry has absorbed many shocks throughout its 230- year history and ultimately prevailed. Generations before us have faced seemingly insurmountable challenges and survived through the most awful economic disasters and war. The forbearance, resilience, collaborative spirit and optimism of wine communities throughout Australia during the bushfires, the pandemic, the loss of the China market and other jolts reflect an enduring generosity, a creative force and belief, reminiscent of those generations before us who gave their lives and spirit to the cause of a modern and open-minded Australian culture.
Our Place in Wine 111
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