During the 1980s the boutique wine boom gathered pace. Observers believed that the Barossa and McLaren Vale would be obsolete by the end of the century. Vignerons started looking for altitude, southerly latitudes or cool ocean breezes to plant their vines. Margaret River, Coonawarra, Central Victoria, the Yarra Valley and Tasmania all became fashionable. New plant material became available with new clones of pinot noir and chardonnay. A new breed of winemakers obsessed with making authentic Burgundy styles arrived on the scene, often disparaging of the classic bold red wines of South Australia. But this debate, this conflict of ideas, has been the making of diversity and interest in Australia wine. Ironically, it is colonial vinestock material that plays a central role, in addition to improved French clones. An example is MV6, mother vine 6, the most prolific and successful Australian Pinot Noir clone/selection, which was originally sourced from Mount Pleasant’s circa 1921 plantings by NSW State Viticulturist Graham Gregory in the early 1960s. It belonged to a collection of cuttings that were propagated at CSIRO Merbein, near Mildura, in Victoria. This material is genetically connected to the 1830s-planted James Busby Collection pinot noir vines at Kirkton (which were pulled up in 1930). MV6 is of enormous importance to the Australian wine industry because of its Grand Cru origins, 19th century pre-phylloxera genetic code, and its superb adaptation to the antipodean landscape. Despite all of the modern importations of Burgundian clones, nothing has ever rivalled MV6 in terms of reputation or consistency of quality. And of course, observers who predicted the demise of the Barossa were completely wrong. The wines are some of the most collectible and valuable in our armoury. No one ever knows the future, although when we arrive at any point, the prism of hindsight and history often shows that we have arrived at a similar place before. Right now, a growing storm of challenges face the wine industry, not least a spate of redundancies, many highly skilled grape growers and winemakers having been let go by corporates facing the reality of the tap being turned off by China. The flow- on effect to wine communities, like the Barossa particularly, are already noticeable. Service industries, including bottling facilities, are shedding staff and reducing hours. Grape prices are also weakening, meaning some vineyards risk being sold, abandoned, or pulled up, depending on the grape varieties and the reputation of the region. As the wine industry navigates through these very difficult times, it is worth noting that booms and crises are not new to Australian wine producers. Market shocks happen periodically. Fashions, wars, government manipulation, exchange rates, disease and panic have all caused pain. Inevitably, there are winners and losers, but ultimately the industry will survive and prosper. We must continue to believe in the future and to be optimistic about the cause of Australian wine. We must protect the stories and values that are highlighted by
110 The Wine Journal – 2023
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