The Wine Journal 2023

experimental wine in 1951. He harnessed winemaking practices introduced during the height of the 1890s Burgundy boom, including headed down open fermentation and partial fermentation in barrel; he used Australian seasoned American oak hogsheads; and, crucially, he employed the technical discoveries made by Penfolds oenologist Arthur Ray Beckwith during the 1930s. These had all been kept secret because of the huge commercial advantage in having discovered how to prevent sweet wine disease and bacterial spoilage. The Penfolds technique of regular splashing, racking and returns to expose the wine to air also brought a resilience and sturdy quality that would guarantee ageing. All up Grange is the invention of a brand new Australian wine aesthetic. The lack of support by senior management and the working-class heroics behind the scenes to ensure the survival of Grange captures the Aussie spirit and the belief that everyone is equal.

Our Place in Wine 109

Max Schubert with Grange

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