Parker Estate - First Growth

This eJournal explores the founding of what was originally known as Parker Coonawarra Estate by John Parker through to the rise of the First Growth Cabernet Sauvignon into a regional icon. It includes a full vertical tasting from 1988 up to the yet to be released 2020 vintage.

ANDREW CAILLARD MW

VINTAGE JOURNAL – VERTICALS –

PARKER ESTATE – FIRST GROWTH

Parker Estate was first established by wine entrepreneur John Parker in 1985. At the time, Coonawarra was awakening from a long slumber and enjoying strong recognition by wine collectors. From around 1890 until the early 1960s, the region had failed to achieve the potential first envisioned by grazier and Coonawarra Fruit Colony pioneer John Riddoch, largely because the wines were not the styles required by the enormous South Australian burgundy export boom, which, after gathering pace during the 1890s, fizzled out during the First World War and then reignited during the 1920s and 1930s. Even so, wine from Coonawarra was used as a secret weapon by vignerons to improve and refine their bulk wines and bottlings. In 1936, the 1933 Woodley’s St Adele Claret was entered by Lieutenant-Colonel David Fulton of Woodley’s Wines into the Brewer’s Exhibition’s First Empire Competition in London and judged the best claret of the competition. George Fairbrother, the leading wine judge of the day, wrote that ‘it was one of the best Australian reds I have ever been privileged to taste’. However, this Empire recognition did not help Coonawarra, because its origins were not stated on the label. Later, after the reinstatement of wine shows around Australia in 1947, Bill Redman began winning prizes and, soon after, the rebadged St Adele Coonawarra Claret began to attract notice from wine drinkers. The story of 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Kalimna Shiraz brought more kudos to the region, as did other top-notch wines from Lindeman’s, Rouge Homme, Wynns Coonawarra Estate, and Petaluma during the 1970s and 1980s. Among the region’s investors was agri-business pioneer John Parker, who had made a name for himself with cotton farming and the establishment of Hungerford Hill in the Hunter Valley. He was also one of the architects of the 1970 takeover of the doomed Chateau Reynella, which has since been stripped of all of its once great vineyards and replaced with packing-case style dormitory housing as far as the eye can see. It is somewhat of an irony that Coonawarra has been a beneficiary of the rapid post war urbanisation of Adelaide and the construction of better railways and roads. Although

Parker Estate – First Growth

John Parker

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From left: Bill Redman, John Parker, Des Corcoran

Parker Estate – First Growth

largely symbolic today, the Coonawarra Railway platform, with its solitary tin shed, represents the beginnings of an important modern South Australian wine region. John Parker recognised the potential of Coonawarra while overseeing Hungerford Hill’s new vineyard investments. During the 1970s, a planting boom was taking place. The relatively cool climate, weathered terra rossa limestone soils, and seemingly unlimited access to ground water had captured the imagination of Australia’s corporate wine businesses. All of the key players, including Mildara, Wynns, Penfolds, and Lindeman’s, had purchased land and/or vineyards to guarantee fruit supply for claret type wines. Although the Coonawarra Fruit Colony had specified to its blockers to plant two thirds shiraz and one third cabernet sauvignon during the 1890s, the growing market for claret style during this time demanded that cabernet sauvignon be the star grape variety. By the early 1980s, wine writer Hugh Johnson described Coonawarra as the Medoc of the Southern Hemisphere. Among the key viticulturalists and growers in the region was Doug Balnaves, who had assisted Hungerford Hill in developing its vineyards. During the mid 1980s, a 50-hectare parcel of terra rossa land at the southern end of Coonawarra, near the township of Penola, became available for sale. After it was acquired by John Parker, Doug Balnaves planted the Abbey Vineyard, named after its former owners, with cabernet cuttings sourced from Hungerford Hill and Reynella vineyards. The provenance of this colonial vinestock material dates back to the earliest importation of cabernet sauvignon by William Macarthur in 1837. The Reynell Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, derived from Carew Reynell’s selections during the early 1900s, is probably genetic material originating from Camden Park nurseries in New South Wales. In 1845, John Reynell ordered vine cuttings from William Macarthur, including ‘1000 Scyras [ sic ], 1000 Carbenet [ sic ] Sauvignon and 1000 Malbec’. The original cabernet sauvignon vinestock ‘amongst the best sorts cultivated in the Medoc’ were brought out by Monsieur Didier Numa Joubert in 1837, and soon after planted at Camden Vineyards. Macarthur’s testimony of this material ‘being amongst the most valuable of our acquisitions’ suggests that he propagated these vines for commercial

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advantage. Renowned for its intensity and concentration, Reynell Selection Cabernet Sauvignon is widely planted in Coonawarra and is a longstanding component of Parker Estate First Growth and present in many others, such as Wynn’s John Riddoch Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Parker Estate’s Abbey Vineyard represents the ambitions and ideals of contemporary generations, where heritage and modernity are beautifully blended. Ancient genetic vinestock material and classic terra rossa soils

Andrew Hardy and Brett Williams

Parker Estate – First Growth

form the foundation of Parker Estate’s First Growth Cabernet Sauvignon, yet technology and precision management amplify the character and fidelity of vineyard site. Vintage can take place approximately two weeks after picking commences at the northern end of Coonawarra. The extended growing season of 220–240 days highlights the reason why cabernet varieties perform so well in the region. The exceptional concentration, flavour, and tannin development are hallmarks of the region’s ultra-fine Cabernet wines. When the 1988 Parker Estate First Growth won praise in various forums, such as the 1991 Perth Show (Penfold Hyland Trophy) and London’s International Wine Challenge, it marked the beginning of a remarkable run of successes. Within the secondary wine market arena, the wine attracted significant attention from collectors and buyers. In the early 1990s, I would occasionally catch up with Sydney-based John Parker because he was a keen observer of our auctions at Langton’s. He told me that he named his wine ‘First Growth’ because it represented the best parcels of the vintage from the estate. This was clearly his translation of Grand Vin. But although we had arguments over this, the ambition behind the name has proven enduring. After John Parker died in 2002, the estate was acquired by the Rathbone family and then, in 2012, by the Hesketh family. Under all these guises, the Parker First Growth has performed very well, highlighting the quality of the vineyard and the respect given to the growing season and vintage conditions by the various winemakers behind the label, which include Chris Cameron, Pete Bissell, Phil Lehmann, and Andrew Hardy since 2019. There is an intriguing and impressive continuity that threads through the vintages. By dint of good fortune there are no marked changes in style. The growing season, varietal character and the vineyard site are the dominating features behind the wine. All the same, consistency has also been achieved through ruthless selection, or no selection at all. In challenging cooler vintages, where it has been difficult to achieve phenolic ripeness, First Growth Cabernet Sauvignon has not been made at all. These decisions expose ambitions for the wine to be something of genuine difference, its price reflective of the time, effort, skill and quality of the vintage.

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Typically, Parker Estate’s First Growth, predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with small parcels of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, is vinified along traditional Bordelais lines, with extended 30-day post ferment maceration and maturation in a combination of tightly grained new and seasoned French oak for around 20 to 24 months. The final cuvée is a selection of the finest parcels of the vintage and reflective of a style that is made for long term ageing. The wines generally need around five to six years to unfold. Although Coonawarra has proven to be an exceptional place to grow cabernet sauvignon, the fortunes of the region have waxed and waned over the last few decades. Its over-reliance on the retail sector, prone to discounting and bulk selling, and its distance from capital cities have held back its potential and reputation. Coonawarra is not fashionable, but it is making some of the country’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Parker Estate First Growth Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the region’s marquee brands, and in this regard, the wine lives up to its name. Vineyard manager Brett Williams continues to improve and refine practices, and Andrew Ox Hardy, a veteran of 39 vintages, brings an experienced lens to winemaking. For collectors and buyers who enjoy the vinosity and torque of great claret style wines, Parker Estate First Growth Cabernet Sauvignon represents a classical expression of ultra-fine Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon.

Parker Estate – First Growth

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TASTING NOTES 1988 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth, Coonawarra, South Australia

G 94

Medium deep colour. Lovely old smoky tobacco leaf cassis aromas with herb garden, dried herb notes. Still holding up well with well-developed cassis tobacco leaf, lacy textures, attractive viscosity, and integrated fresh acidity. In very good shape, showing classic Coonawarra lines. Now– soon. 13.5% alc 1989 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth, Coonawarra, South Australia G 87 Medium-deep colour. Developed sweet tobacco forest floor, redcurrant, leather polish aromas with bush garrigue notes. Supple sweet tobacco leaf, redcurrant flavours, fine slinky tannins and slightly high-pitched

acidity. Sweet and sour wine. Still holding on. Now. 13% alc 1990 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth Coonawarra, South Australia

G 95

Medium-deep crimson. Fresh complex cassis, tobacco leaf, dark chocolate, hint caramel aromas with herb garden, hint sage notes. Inky textured and smooth with ample developed blackcurrant tobacco leaf, cedar flavours, fine chalky/lacy tannins and a touch of capsicum. Acidity holding the wine together. Finishes firm, supple and inky. Very attractive aged Coonawarra Claret. Now–soon. 13% alc 1991 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth Coonawarra, South Australia G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Developed cassis grilled nut, leafy, graphite aromas with hint marzipan notes. Buoyant cassis, red plum, tobacco leaf flavours, fine grainy al dente textures, lovely mid palate density and underlying savoury complexity. Chalky firm minerally finish. Expressive, fresh and classic. Now–2028. 13% alc 1992 – No Vintage 1993 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth G 87 Medium-deep crimson. Lifted sweet tobacco leaf, hint minty aromas with underlying developed cassis chinotto notes. Soupy palate with sweet cassis, tobacco leaf flavours, fine al dente/leafy tannins and persistent linear acidity. Bittersweet crunchy finish. Now–soon. 13.3% alc

Parker Estate – First Growth

1994 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth

G 94

Medium-deep crimson. Roasted walnut, panforte, cassis aromas with leafy notes. Generously concentrated wine with ample cassis strawberry, capsicum, fruits, fine lacy/grippy tannins, very good mid palate richness and underlying espresso, vanilla, wax polish notes. Finishes gravelly

firm. In very good condition. Now–soon. 13.5% alc 1996 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth

G 96

Medium-deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, apricot leafy aromas with vanilla, roasted hazelnut notes. Richly flavoured wine with ample cassis, plummy, touch apricot, burnt toffee flavours, fine loose-knit grainy/ cedar tannins and integrated savoury, vanilla oak complexity. Classical

firm earthy finish. Beautiful condition. Now–2030. 13.5% alc 1998 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth

G 95

Deep crimson. Complex dark plum, dark cherry, panforte, roasted walnut wax polish aromas. Richly concentrated with ample blackcurrant, dark plum, panforte, tobacco leaf mocha flavours, fine grainy al dente tannins, lovely inky density, and mineral length. Classically claret firm at the finish. A very good vintage, with some life to go. Now–2030. 13.5% alc 1999 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth Deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, marzipan, mocha, graphite aromas with leafy notes. Beautifully concentrated wine with deep- set blackcurrant, dark plum, panforte flavours, fine grainy/graphite/ muscular tannins and underlying savoury oak. Dry firm finish. Alas, the structure dominates the fruit these days. Not a great bottle, but still an important wine in the canon of Australian vintages. Soon. 14% alc 2000 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth G 93 Deep crimson. Redcurrant, strawberry, graphite aromas with leafy, hint marzipan notes. Velvety textured wine with redcurrant, strawberry fruits, some panforte notes, fine grainy/al dente firm tannins. Finishes leafy firm with a whip of acidity. Drink now–2030. 14% alc G 88

The Vintage Journal – Verticals

2001 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth

G 94

Medium-deep crimson. Fresh red plum, blackcurrant cedar aromas with roasted chestnut, leafy aromas. Well concentrated slinky plate with ample cassis, plum, cedar, chinotto flavours, fine grainy/grippy tannins and well-balanced vanilla roasted chestnut oak. A vigorous but flavourful finish. Now–2032. 14% alc

2002 – No Vintage 2003 – No Vintage 2004 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth

G 93

Deep crimson. Lovely intense blackcurrant, praline, leafy aromas with mocha notes. Well concentrated blackcurrant, cassis flavours, fine sinewy/al dente tannins, very good mid palate richness/volume, inky density and underpinning mocha vanilla oak. Crunchy firm finish. Modern style with ample dark fruits and linear freshness. Now–2032. 14.5% alc 2005 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth G 95 Medium-deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, cedar aromas with hint bush garrigue notes. Well concentrated cassis, cedar, mocha vanilla flavours, fine grainy grippy tannins, attractive density and mineral cut. Finishes chewy firm with a long core of sweet fruit. Now–2035 14.5% alc

Parker Estate – First Growth

2006 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth

G 92

Medium-deep crimson. Blackcurrant, mocha, minty, bush garrigue aromas. Glossy wine with ample pure blackcurrant chinotto flavours, fine chewy textures, well-balanced vanilla mocha oak notes and long fresh linear acidity. Very attractive inky density and length, but the acidity is too high for the wine; might add another 10 years to its life though. Now–2040. 15% alc 2008 Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth G 94 Medium-deep crimson. Complex cassis, blackberry aromas with marzipan, vanilla oak notes. A touch of leafy complexity. Lovely ripe cassis, blackberry, marzipan, hint panforte notes, fine loose-knit cedary tannins and well-integrated vanilla marzipan oak complexity. Grippy claret-like finish, with acidity well tucked into the fruit. Now–2030. 14.5% alc 2009 Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth G 94+ Medium-deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, leafy chinotto aromas with vanilla aniseed notes. Well concentrated blackcurrant, tea leaf, chinotto flavours, fine loose-knit gravelly/grippy tannins and underlying vanilla marzipan spice notes. Finishes grippy firm and long. Very good extract, density and torque, but a touch gritty. Now–2034. 14.5% 2010 Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth G 95 Medium-deep crimson. Dark chocolate, dark plum, herb garden graphite, coal dust aromas. Richly concentrated dark chocolate, dark plum, blackberry flavours, persistent firm gravelly tannins, very good mid palate density and well-balanced vanilla oak notes. Finishes muscular firm and minerally with leafy nuances. Now–2036. 14.5% alc

2011 – No Vintage 2012 Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth

G 93

Medium-deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant dark cherry, leafy hint graphite aromas. Richly concentrated palate with deep-set blackcurrant dark cherry fruits, vigorous firm/chewy tannins and underlying savoury complexity and minerally finish. Elegantly styled wine with the structure in charge. Now–2034. 14% alc

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2013 Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth

G 93

Medium-deep crimson. Lifted cassis, spice, vanilla aromas with dark chocolate, bush garrigue, sage notes. Well concentrated blackcurrant, dark chocolate, spicy flavours, fine grainy cedary tannins, refined grilled nut oak complexity and fresh indelible acidity. Finishes cedary firm with

attractive mineral freshness. Now–2032. 14% alc 2014 Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth

G 95

Medium-deep crimson. Classical blackcurrant, leafy, mocha aromas. Well-developed cassis, dark chocolate, fine-grained tannins, beautiful concentration and attractive mocha, marzipan flavours. Finishes cedar firm, lovely seductive cassis fruits with some leafy notes. Very modern wine. Now–2035. 14.5% alc 2015 Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth G 92 Medium-deep crimson. Leafy, capsicum, blackcurrant aromas with hints of marzipan. Inky-textured wine with ample leafy cassis dark plum flavours, hint of bush garrigue/mint, fine gravelly firm/touch leafy tannins, vanilla marzipan notes and fresh linear acidity. Finishes grippy/ pippy and long. Now–2035. 14.5% alc

Parker Estate – First Growth

2016 Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth

G 95

Medium-deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant brambly aromas with mocha, hint liquorice, bush garrigue notes. Well concentrated cassis, blackberry, mulberry fruits, fine slinky firm bittersweet tannins, lovely mid palate viscosity and well-integrated vanilla, marzipan oak. Finishes graphite firm and minerally. Now–2035. 14.5% alc 2017 – No Vintage 2018 Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth G 95 Medium-deep crimson. Lovely expressive blackcurrant, black cherry, mulberry aromas with vanilla, toasty, aniseed notes. Beautifully concentrated wine with plentiful ripe blackcurrant, black cherry fruits, fine grainy cedary tannins and very well integrated new oak complexity. Finishes firm with very attractive mineral length. 2026–2040. 14.5% alc 2019 Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Classically beautiful wine with intense blackcurrant pastille leafy aromas with vanilla, toasty marzipan notes. Well concentrated smoothly textured wine with ample ripe soft cassis, dark plum, hint panforte fruits, fine grained/cedar tannins, attractive mid palate viscosity, toasty vanilla notes and well-integrated acidity.

Finishes claret firm. 2028–2042. 14.5% alc 2020 Parker Coonawarra Estate First Growth

G 93+

Medium-deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, cedar tomato leaf, with hint capsicum notes. Well balanced wine with blackcurrant, mulberry fruits, cedary tannins, lovely inky density, some light vanilla, marzipan notes and fresh long crisp acidity. Still in parts, but a throwback to the 1980s. Now–2045. 14.5%

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About the Author Andrew Caillard MW is the author of several books including Penfolds: The Rewards of Patience (six editions), Imagining Coonawarra, A Travel Through Time (the history of leading Spanish winery Marques de Riscal) and co-authored educational books Australian Wine and A Taste Around the World of Wine and The Essence of Dreams (the history of the Mornington Peninsula’s wine industry). Andrew has also written The Australian Ark , a definitive history of Australian wine, which will be published late 2023. The Vintage Journal draws on research, experience and tasting expertise gathered during over 40 years working in the secondary market, the corporate retail world, the wine media, film, and painting.

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