The Barossa is unquestionably Australia’s most famous wine region. Certainly not the biggest producing district, nor the oldest (although not far off it), this is the name best known by winelovers around the globe. Rightly or wrongly, their iconic, bold, richly flavoured, idiosyncratic reds are often seen as representative of Australian wine in its entirety. That is, of course, very far from the truth, but what is certain is that many of its wines, especially the reds, are some of this country’s finest.
SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE GUIDE 2026
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
VINTAGE JOURNAL
INTRODUCTION
ANGUS HUGHSON When I first entered the wine trade, over 20 years ago, South Australia was widely described as ’The Wine State’. While other regions also had significant history and a library of fine wines, South Australia was this country’s undisputed centre of wine. The Barossa and Eden valleys were the pinnacles thanks to their sheer volume of quality wine, but McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek, Coonawarra, Adelaide Hills and others could, on their day, hit similar heights. The landscape has certainly changed over the last three decades. New South Wales has grown far past its Hunter Valley origins, Western Australia and Tasmania have asserted their fine wine credentials, and Victoria has blossomed across numerous regions. This has been an exciting time for Australian wine in general as it has grown out of adolescence into a more mature industry with greater self-confidence, technical skill, and genuine aspirations to match the greatest wines from around the world. While there has been a movement across all states and regions, increasingly the wines from South Australia have been forgotten or undervalued in a rush to cover the evolution in other parts of the country or new-wave styles. Yet South Australia is by far the largest state in terms of vineyard area and wine production with a long and proud history which has also enjoyed its own period of evolution, and will, without doubt, continue to deserve a significant focus. The South Australian Wine Guide 2026 has been launched to rebalance the ledger, and provide a definitive guide that throws a light on all of South Australia’s wine regions, with a singular focus on the unique wines from what is still ‘The Wine State’. A number of regions are regularly overlooked by sections of wine media or do not receive the recognition due to them for their contribution to the national wine story – a trend that seems to be getting worse over time. This guide will proudly put every South Australian region on a pedestal to identify the leading local wines and highlight unique regional stories often hidden from view. A key intention for the South Australian Wine Guide 2026 is to go beyond tasting notes and scores and tell the deeper stories of the regions and their recent vintages. Tasting wine is much more profound than simply enjoying an alcoholic beverage. It is tasting the land, its people, and history expressed through aromas, flavours, and textures. From our perspective, providing a regional context is as important as any
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score and a vital component of this guide. Each region opens with an introduction to the area and wines tasted, including standout vintages and varieties to keep an eye out for. Keen Riesling fans will be particularly interested in the Eden Valley and Clare Valley reports of the 2025 Riesling vintage by Tony Love and Jeni Port, respectively. Critic choice is clearly important in guiding consumers. The world of wine has never been more complex, nor have consumer tastes. So, to reflect this diversity, this guide includes reviews from 10 critics of different ages and backgrounds. On the one hand, we have highly experienced tasters such as Andrew Caillard MW, Tony Love, Ken Gargett, and Jeni Port, whose opinions comfortably sit alongside those of rising stars Shanteh Wale, Cyndal Petty, and Lisa Cardelli. We believe a range of palates with a vast array of backgrounds and experiences is essential to provide a compelling and all-encompassing guide that will resonate with all consumers, from novices starting out on their journey to collectors with vast cellars. Our overriding view is that there is a place and a consumer for every wine and so we taste with an open mind across a broad range of styles independent of any personal preference or bias. The South Australian Wine Guide 202 6 is our second foray into building greater recognition for the wines from all of South Australia. This is, we hope, just the start, and we can build the guide into a definitive resource and vinous bible for anyone keen to get a better handle on the wines of this key centrepiece of the Australian wine industry.
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BEST OF THE BEST
Alkina Striato, Shiraz 2023
Barossa
Angove Brightlands, Shiraz 2021
McLaren Vale Coonawarra
Balnaves, The Tally Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 Barton Rise & Barton View, Reserve Old Vine, Shiraz 2018
Barossa
Bekkers, Syrah 2023
McLaren Vale Adelaide Hills Langhorne Creek
BK Wines, Remy, Pinot Noir 2022 Bremerton, Old Adam, Shiraz 2022
Burge Family Winemakers, Draycott Reserve, Shiraz 2022 Charles Melton, Nine Popes, Red Blend 2022 Château Tanunda, 100 Year Old Vines, Shiraz 2022 Château Tanunda, 150 Year Old Vines, Shiraz 2022 Eisenstone, X11 Hoffmann Dallwitz Vineyard, Shiraz 2022
Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa
Elderton, Command, Shiraz 2022 First Drop, The Cream, Shiraz 2021
Henschke, Cyril Henschke, Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 Henschke, Hill of Grace, Shiraz 2021 Henschke, Hill of Roses, Shiraz 2021 Henschke, Mount Edelstone, Shiraz 2021 Hentley Farm, Clos Otto, Shiraz 2022 Hentley Farm, The Old Legend, Grenache 2023, Hickinbotham, The Peake, Cabernet Shiraz 2022 Jacob’s Creek, Our Limited Release Survivor Vine, Shiraz 2021
McLaren Vale
Barossa
Jim Barry Wines, The Armagh, Shiraz 2022 John Duval Wines, Eligo, Shiraz 2021 John Duval Wines, Integro, Cabernet Shiraz 2016 Kaesler Wines, Old Bastard, Shiraz 2022 Kilikanoon Wines, Walton 1946, Grenache 2021 Lake Breeze, Arthur’s Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot 2022 Langmeil Winery, The Freedom 1843, Shiraz 2022
Clare Valley
Barossa Barossa Barossa
Clare Valley
Langhorne Creek
Barossa Barossa Barossa
Levrier Wines by Jo Irvine, Grand Levrier, Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Mirus Vineyards, Block 5 Sand Hill, Shiraz 2023
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Mr Riggs, The Chap, Shiraz Cabernet 2021 Orlando, Centenary Hill, Shiraz 2018
McLaren Vale
Barossa
Parker Estate, 95 Block, Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 2021
Coonawarra
Paulmara Estates, Aristotle, Shiraz 2021 Penfolds, Bin 95 Grange, Shiraz Blend 2021
Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa
Penfolds, RWT Bin 798, Shiraz 2023 Penfolds, St Henri, Shiraz 2022
Peter Lehmann Wines, Stonewell, Shiraz 2018 Peter Lehmann Wines, Stonewell, Shiraz 2019 Rieslingfreak, No. 10 Zenit, Riesling 2025
Rieslingfreak, No.4, Riesling 2025 Riposte, The, Pinot Noir 2025 Schild Estate, Moorooroo, Shiraz 2022
Adelaide Hills
Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa
Seppeltsfield, 100-Year-Old Para, Vintage Tawny 1925
Sons of Eden, Remus Old Vine, Shiraz 2022 Soul Growers, Belle Ame, Shiraz 2021 Soul Growers, Slow Grown, Shiraz 2023
Tarrawatta Wines, Ambervale, Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
Taylors, The Pioneer, Shiraz 2019
Clare Valley
Terre à Terre, Crayeres Vineyard Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Cabernet Franc 2021 Terre à Terre, Reserve, Sauvignon Blanc 2023 Thistledown, Sands of Time, Grenache 2024 Torbreck Vintners, Hillside Vineyard, Grenache 2023 Torbreck Vintners, RunRig, Shiraz Viognier 2022 Two Hands, Holy Grail Single Vineyard, Shiraz 2022 Two Hands, Yacca Block Single Vineyard, Shiraz 2022
Wrattonbully Wrattonbully McLaren Vale
Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa
Weaver, Riesling 2025
Adelaide Hills Clare Valley McLaren Vale McLaren Vale
Wines by KT, Howarth Vineyard, Shiraz Cabernet 2022 Yangarra, Hickinbotham Clarendon, Grenache 2023
Yangarra, High Sands, Grenache 2023
Yelland & Papps, Limited Cuvée, Grenache 2024
Barossa
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The Barossa Valley. Photo: David Longfield
BAROSSA
BAROSSA
ANDREW CAILLARD MW, KEN GARGETT, AND TONY LOVE SUMMARY BY KEN GARGETT
The Barossa is unquestionably Australia’s most famous wine region. Certainly not the biggest producing district, nor the oldest (although not far off it), this is the name best known by winelovers around the globe. Rightly or wrongly, their iconic, bold, richly flavoured, idiosyncratic reds are often seen as representative of Australian wine in its entirety. That is, of course, very far from the truth, but what is certain is that many of its wines, especially the reds, are some of this country’s finest. Situated around an hour to the north/northwest of Adelaide, the Barossa floor is guarded by the surrounding hills, notably those of the Eden Valley. A number of towns are scattered across the region, including Nuriootpa, Bethany, Tanunda, Angaston, and Lyndoch. The cultivation of grapes and the making of wine dates back to the 1840s with the arrival of the Silesian Lutherans. A number of familiar names have worked the region since those earliest days: Yalumba was established in 1849; the Seppelt family had set up Seppeltsfield Estate by 1851; Johann Gramp founded his operation on the banks of Jacob’s Creek in 1847; in the same year, Joseph Gilbert planted his vineyard, which he named after his family’s property back in Wiltshire, England, Pewsey Vale; the Henschke family had planted vineyards in both the Krondorf region in the Barossa and nearby Eden Valley by the 1860s; the list goes on. This has meant that the region is home to many vineyards containing some of the oldest vines on the planet, and of the most famous red varieties. So far, the fight to keep phylloxera at bay has been successful, and so this incredibly precious resource is planted on its own roots. It is astonishing to drink wines from grapes harvested from vines more than 150 years of age, and what an extraordinary link to history this provides. Nowhere in the world can match it. Over time, the Barossa has seen the rollercoaster ride so familiar to so many wine regions around the globe – economic ups and downs, climatic disasters and great seasons, considered flavour of the month one minute and toxic dross the next. The region has had its fair share of depressions, disasters, and wars – perhaps not locally, but to which they have contributed swathes of young men otherwise essential to progress. Nevertheless, the valley has come through with unflagging persistence,
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never wavering in its belief that the wines were world class. Even now, when the current winds of fashion are not filling the sails of Australian wine to the extent we might wish, the Barossa still has extraordinary support and loyalty. Much of this has been on the back of our most famous grape variety, Shiraz. Grown in almost every Australian wine region – and thanks to climate change, those where it is not will surely see it soon – nowhere has built a reputation of being able to provide wines as thrilling and richly flavoured as we see in the Barossa. No surprise then, that around 80% of the region is planted to this variety. It is worth mentioning that it does far more than just this style of red. Shiraz contributes to fortifieds, Rosé, wine casks, and blends – think that most famous of Aussie blends, Shiraz/Cabernet or Cabernet/ Shiraz, if you prefer. At least, it no longer suffers the indignity that was inflicted upon it in tougher times when Shiraz grapes were used in the baking of muffins. Cabernet Sauvignon may not seem obviously suited to this warm climate region, but if one accepts that all Cabernet does not have to replicate Bordeaux, Margaret River, or Napa, there are many excellent, flavoursome examples from the Barossa, especially in slightly cooler vintages. Mourvedre, or Mataro if we go with the old timers’ name for it, has long been a contributor. Usually in blends with Shiraz and/or Grenache, sometimes in Rosé or fortifieds, it has started to develop a reputation for solo ventures and should continue to do so.
The Barossa Valley. Photo: David Longfield
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Stonewell Vineyard, Barossa Valley. Andrew Caillard MW, 1990s, oil on boards.
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Fads, fashions, and flavours come and go, but few varieties are as intriguing at the moment as Grenache. Not just in the Barossa but across Australia. Once the most planted variety in Australia, it now forms only around 1% of our vineyards, with less than half that in the Barossa. Fortunately, despite the vinepull schemes of the past, much of this is very old plantings, providing low-yielding but high- quality fruit. There was a time when putting Grenache on a label was the marketing equivalent of a skull and crossbones, but today, finally, Australian winelovers are realising what alluring, ethereal and elegant wines great Grenache can be. The rest of the world can surely not be far behind. Whites, inevitably, play a secondary role but that does not mean we are not seeing some enjoyable efforts. Riesling is on offer, but most producers look to the higher elevations of the surrounding Eden Valley. Semillon was very popular once, less so now, but it is a very different animal to what our most famous Semillon region, the Hunter Valley, offers. Many of those from the Barossa have seen a degree of oak maturation and are more for earlier drinking than the long-lived gems from the Hunter. There are exceptions. Chardonnay is popular but does not cause the elite wines from more suitable regions for this grape many sleepless nights. What is exciting is some of the newer plantings, particularly of Italian varieties like Fiano and Vermentino. The Barossa may not enjoy the endless run of great vintages upon which a place like Margaret River seems to have a mortgage, but there have certainly been some special years this century. 2002, 2004, 2008, perhaps especially 2010, 2012 and then two brilliant years in 2016 and 2018 ensure that those who have cellared well, or who have access to older wines, will drink magnificently. More recently, we have seen a wonderful year in 2022, with excellent rains in the lead-in followed by slightly cooler conditions than average. The wines are certain to age superbly. 2023 had its challenges with a very wet spring and drier summer, but there are many fine wines from it, especially for those who put in the work. 2024 was a return to excellence. Reduced rainfall and drier conditions saw lower yields but high quality. It is early days for 2025, but there is plenty of excitement and the early wines reflect why. This leaves us with 2021. Rainfall was a little lower than average and there was some early heat, though milder conditions throughout harvest. It is, quite possibly, one of the finest vintages ever enjoyed by the region. The wines are scintillating and provide delicious early drinking, as well as much promise for the long haul. A must for every cellar. .
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EDEN VALLEY
SUMMARY BY TONY LOVE
The Eden Valley is calling. It’s a distinct Geographically Indicated region to its more famous Barossa Valley GI, which covers the floor and eastern and western ridges of the region, both falling under the greater zonal device as the Barossa. But Eden Valley stands tall for all the right reasons. The difference between the two regions is that Eden Valley rises in the east to higher altitudes, and therefore experiences cooler nights in summer and early autumn, which temper ripening, preserve natural acidity, and extend and enhance fruit flavours in its key Riesling and Shiraz varieties, both the hard-working flag-bearers of the district. The environment here is dramatic in its distinctive, toughened Australian manner, marked by impressive gum trees and rocky outcrops, the stoic landscape struggling to keep up its nutrients, thirsty for local ground and surface water, as there is no additional supply from the River Murray. Rolling hills, sloping vales, and varying aspects and exposures make for a complex terrain, soils featuring iron and quartz gravels amongst sand and clay layers; many growers and winemakers associate these with a unique minerality in the region’s wines. Which leads us to the crop of 2025 Rieslings that feature in this year’s Guide . Numbers at our annual tasting of the region’s signature white were down on last year, and the overall style was arguably a little different from the 2024 vintage, which was remarkably floral and fragrant. Rieslingfreak’s Belinda Hughes suggests this is because 2025 was a “uniquely challenging Riesling vintage”. The lead up, she commented, was notable for 2024 being the driest year on record in South Australia, as well as one of the warmest overall. A significant Spring frost event caused severe damage to early growth, but in many cases, vines bounced back with a secondary budburst, the resulting crop not surprisingly smaller than what the initial one had promised. Belinda’s seasonal reflections were reiterated by Max & Me winemaker Phil Lehman. His 2024 rainfall records could only be described in his own words as a “horror lead-in to the 24/25 growing season”, followed by the “absolute horror of December–April 2025, with only 20mm total for these five months, covering all the
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ripening and harvest season for Riesling. Many people had no irrigation water at all for their vines.” By the time the 2025 Rieslings were ready to look at en masse, Phil said: “I approached the ’25 Eden Valley Riesling tasting with a bit of trepidation, remembering how tough the season was leading up to harvest, but strangely, perhaps, the resultant wines don’t really show me any of this torment.” It was arguably a year where attention across the seasons was paramount. Rieslingfreak’s John Hughes says that most years can be defined as either “a variety’s vintage or a winemaker’s vintage, and 2025 was definitely the latter.” For he and Belinda, irrigation management, the use of sunburn and heat distress clay protectant, harvest timing, acid adjustments, and juice finings all required extra focus in order to get the results they seek. Across the board, the 2025 Rieslings generally showed more subdued citrus aromatics and flavours than in the preceding vintage. The region’s signature white florals often played more quietly upon the nose, though the best of the crop still showed their true colours in that department. Minerality, on the other hand, was keenly displayed in many examples. This is not an unwanted character, according to Eden Valley Riesling legend Andrew Wigan, who reported that: “The region’s minerally wines are much loved by many Eden Valley winemakers.” For Phil Lehmann, the standout wines featured prominent notes of orange blossom or jasmine florals and lime citrus. “But, yeah, quite minerally and more shy flavour drive,” he suggests. “In short, I like the wines a helluva lot more than I did the seasons leading into vintage!”
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The Reviews
Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2021
G 100
Medium-deep crimson. Expressive raspberry, blackberry, cassis, hint elderberry/ violet/ sage aromas with mocha, marzipan notes. Elegant yet powerful, dense but buoyant palate with ample blackberry pastille, blackcurrant, raspberry fruits, fine supple/ grainy tannins, lovely mid-palate volume/ richness and superbly balanced grilled almond, roasted chestnut notes. Finishes Claret-firm with a featherweight plume of bittersweet tannins. A beguiling and lasting landmark Hill of Grace vintage with wonderful definition, vinosity and torque. 14.5% alc Drink 2028–2048 Hentley Farm Clos Otto Shiraz 2022 G 100 Deep crimson. Dark cherry, blackberry pastille aromas with underlying mocha notes. Very pure and concentrated Shiraz with inky deep blackberry pastille, dark cherry fruits, supple/ smooth and velvety textures, superbly integrated marzipan, touch vanilla notes. Just a hint of bush garrigue at the finish. Liquorice notes appear at the final farewell. A great Barossa Shiraz of exceptional definition, density and resonance. Brilliant. Drink 2028–2045 Seppeltsfield 100-Year-Old Para Vintage Tawny 1925 G 100 Deep colour. Intense lifted ground coffee, praline, panforte aromas with smoky, liquorice, aniseed, clove notes. Generously concentrated, dense and richly flavoured with fresh espresso, dark chocolate, orange rind, sandalwood clove notes, fine supple textures, superb mid-palate volume/ viscosity and a persistent pure aniseed cut. Finishes smoky and long with apricot, panforte notes. A wonderful expression of Australian wine history and ambition. A living curio to share. Drink now–keep Torbreck Vintners RunRig Shiraz, Viognier 2022 G 100 Deep crimson. Intense dark plum, blackberry, liquorice, mocha/ espresso aromas with lifted star anise notes. Saturated dark plum, blackberry, apricot fruits, superb ultra-fine tannins and underlying roasted coffee/ espresso mocha notes. Finishes gravelly and long with persistent dark berry fruits/ cedar nuances. Exceptional balance and complexity. Should develop brilliantly well. Drink 2028–2046 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2021 G 99 Medium-deep crimson. Lovely intense raspberry, blackberry pastille, hint mocha aromas with herbgarden/ sage notes. Pure and inky-textured with superb raspberry pastille, blackberry fruits, persistent fine slinky/ brambly textures and underlying grilled nut, vanilla notes. Al dente firm at the finish with persistent sweet fruit notes and a kick of aniseed. This is a gorgeous reference Eden Valley Shiraz with superb fruit definition, energy and flow. 14.5% alc Drink 2027–2040
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Two Hands Yacca Block Single Vineyard Shiraz 2022
G 99
Deep crimson. Pure blackberry sage aromas with mocha notes. Generous and inky with ample blackberry pastille, chinotto flavours, fine slinky textures and beautifully balanced roasted chestnut, marzipan notes. Finishes long with a lovely graphite plume. Gorgeous wine. 14.6% alc Drink now–2042 Alkina Striato Shiraz 2023 G 98 Deep crimson. Pure blackberry pastille, geosmin aromas with espresso/ hint bush garrigue notes. Beautifully concentrated blackberry pastille, inky, espresso flavours, and fine, persistent chalky textures. A plume of lacy/ graphite tannins explodes out at the finish. Superb wine. Drink now–2035 Chateau Tanunda 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz 2022 G 98 Deep crimson. Intense dark plum, dark cherry wax polish, marzioan aromas. Beautifully balanced wine with sweet dark plum, black cherry, Black Forest flavours and superbly ripe chocolate tannins. Lovely inky density with the acidity giving linear freshness and length. This is a particularly stylish and resonating Barossa Shiraz. Drink now–2046 Hentley Farm The Old Legend Grenache 2023 G 98 Medium-deep crimson. Musky plum, strawberry, red cherry, dark chocolate aromas. Very impressive and classical Grenache with pure strawberry pastille, red cherry fruits, lacy firm textures and superb mid-palate viscosity. A reference style. Will keep, but best to drink with primary fruit. Gorgeous wine. Drink now–2032 John Duval Wines Integro Cabernet, Shiraz 2016 G 98 This is a museum release, but great to see wines given time in the cellar for those who enjoy more mature styles. A version of the great Aussie blend, Cabernet and Shiraz, with 70% of the fruit sourced from the Stonegarden Vineyard near Springton, which has plantings dating back into the 19th century. The remainder hails from the team’s best parcel at Ebenezer. Maturation was for a year and a half in French oak hogsheads, with 42% of them new. Under cork. Dark maroon in colour, this is a wine of maturity, complexity and still with promise. On top of that, great drinking now. We have notes of chocolate, mocha, bergamot, black fruits, charcuterie and a hint of sandalwood. This is dense but balanced and seriously long, a pleasing juicy style which will offer great drinking over the next two decades. Stunning stuff. Drink now–2045
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John Duval Wines Eligo Shiraz 2021
G 98
From one of the region’s greatest vintages for many years, the team describe this wine as representing the very best of that vintage. That raises the bar. The fruit came from the Barossa Valley, 62%, and the Eden Valley, 38%. Maturation was for a year and a half, 42% in new French oak hogsheads, with the balance in a mix of older hogsheads and puncheons. Under cork. The colour is dark cherry/magenta. On the nose we have notes of warm earth, blackberries, smoked meats, liquorice, black cherries and coffee grinds. A touch of toasty oak, but the wine has good concentration and immaculate balance with serious length. This is so seductive. A great year has given us a stunning Barossa Valley Shiraz. Enjoy this wonderful wine over the next 20 years. Drink now–2045 Langmeil The Freedom 1843 Shiraz 2022 G 98 Deep crimson. Intense dark cherry, blackberry praline aromas with ginger, marzipan notes. Richly concentrated and plush in structure with abundant blackberry pastille, dark cherry confit flavours, supple/ velvety tannins and beautifully integrated marzipan, vanilla notes. Chocolaty and bittersweet with an aniseed kick at the finish. Very seductive wine with lovely extract and complexity, Drink now–2040 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz 2021 G 98 Deep crimson. Very expressive blackberry, praline, roasted hazelnut, espresso crème brûlée aromas with lifted Indian spice/ balsamic notes. Deeply concentrated blackberry, dark chocolate flavours, lovely mid-palate volume, plentiful fine chalky/ al dente tannins and well-balanced roasted chestnut, mocha, roasted coffee notes. Finishes gravelly with superb choco-berry fruits. A beautifully modulated Claret-style harking back to the original blueprint. Should develop into a classic Grange. Drink 2030–2060 Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2022 G 98 Deep crimson. Intense dark cherry, blackberry, roasted walnut, mocha/ praline, hint wax varnish aromas. Beautifully concentrated dark cherry, blackberry pastille, dark chocolate flavours, superb slinky firm bittersweet tannins, lovely inky density and well-integrated fresh acidity. Claret-firm at the finish. A classical St Henri. A great follow up to the stellar 2021 vintage. Outstanding. Drink now–2048
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Rieslingfreak No. 10 Zenit Riesling 2025
G 98
This is a special wine for John Hughes at Rieslingfreak. In 2017, the wine was first made in celebration of John’s wedding. Since then, John sees it as the pinnacle of their wines, made in tiny quantities and only in the very best years. This release is 71% Eden Valley and 29% from the Clare Valley. The Eden Valley component comes from the Leinert Vineyard in Flaxman Valley. The initial impression that hits one is the mouth-watering slaty acidity. The colour is a nearly invisible lemon and we have beautifully perfumed aromas, including florals, lavender, talc, citrus blossoms, bath salts, limes and lemons, chalk and grapefruit. That fine acidity runs the length, which is exceptional. The wine is balanced and pristine and delightfully energetic. It will surely provide immense pleasure for the next 20 years. Drink now–2045 Soul Growers Slow Grown Shiraz 2023 G 98 Deep crimsons. Espresso choco-berry aromas and flavours with some herbgarden, Inky deep and smooth with lovely pure blackberry, praline flavours, perfectly integrated supple tannins and fresh quartz-like acidity. A masterclass in selection
and intuitive winemaking. Drink now–2036 Two Hands Holy Grail Single Vineyard Shiraz 2022
G 98
Deep crimson. Classical blackberry dark chocolate aromas with chinotto, bush garrigue notes. Beautifully balanced and evocative wine with pure blackberry chinotto, dark chocolate, hint ginger flavours, fine loose-knit velvety textures and beautifully integrated mocha/ vanilla notes. Finishes chocolaty firm and bittersweet with superb mineral length. 14.5% alc Drink now–2046 Yelland & Papps Limited Cuvée Grenache 2024 G 98 Medium crimson. Fresh strawberry cola aromas with hints of herbgarden. Silky textured and pure with fresh strawberry pastille, chinotto fruits, lovely mid-palate viscosity and lovely long mineral acidity. Medium powered but graceful and flowing. Utterly delicious. Best to drink earlier than later though. Drink now–2030 Barton Rise & Barton View Old Vines Shiraz 2018 G 97 From one of the great vintages of the century for the Barossa region, this is just what one would seek in their old vine Shiraz. Under cork. Opaque/black in colour with a dark maroon edge, there is an immediate impression of vanillin oak, but handsomely integrated. The nose exhibits notes of chocolate, graphite, mocha, coffee beans, cocoa powder, truffles and sage. This is a textbook Barossa Valley blockbuster. The palate sees molten chocolate, cassis and blackberries – those cassis and chocolate notes never waver. Obvious? Yes, but who cares? A cushiony texture, silk tannins and a structure that is just supple, seductive and plush at all times. Love it. This is not a subtle style, but if you are drinking top-notch Barossa Shiraz, you are not seeking subtlety. 10–12 years. Drink now–2037
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Burge Family Winemakers Draycott Reserve Shiraz 2022
G 97
Under cork, this wine is a barrel selection from the estate’s oldest blocks of Shiraz. It is restricted to those vintages considered worthy. Maturation is for two and a half years in a mix of new French and American oak hogsheads. An inky opaque maroon, the nose reveals notes of blackberries, plums, mocha, soy, cedar, tobacco leaves, truffles, cassis and chocolate. The oak integration has been deftly handled and the wine has superb balance and great length. Intensity runs for the full journey, along with a line of bright acidity, finishing with the silkiest of tannins. Stunning stuff. Drink now–2040 Charles Melton Nine Popes Red blend 2022 G 97 It is likely that some of today’s younger wine lovers are not familiar with just how important this wine is in the overall scheme of Australian vinous history. Basically, by putting Grenache front and centre in this blend and trumpeting it, Charlie Melton removed a great deal of the stigma that the variety had lived with for many decades. Wine lovers, both locally and afar, began to realise that there was an awful lot more to the variety than just to act as a workhorse, filling in blends, bulk wine, making Rosé and fortifieds, and even being used in muffins (oh, the indignity). This was the wine which started the avalanche of GSMs and solo varietal Grenache from regions like the Barossa and McLaren Vale with which we are now blessed. This vintage is a blend of Grenache and Shiraz with a dollop of Mataro. Maturation was mostly in French oak barriques. It is one thing to be the leader in a new trend. It is entirely different to remain at the forefront over the decades to follow. This wine has always been one of the best of its style. The colour is a dark crimson/purple. The wine is seamless, generous and superbly crafted, beautifully fragrant with the nose giving us notes of mocha, cassis, plums, chocolate and creamy red cherries. There is fine balance, sleek tannins, very serious length and the inevitable complexity is already emerging. A cracker. 15–20 years. Drink now–2045 Château Tanunda 150-Year-Old Vines Shiraz 2022 If 100-year-old vines were impressive, how about 150? What a priceless resource. Under cork, this comes from an exceptional vintage. There is incredible intensity here. The colour is black/maroon and the nose reveals aromas of chocolate, truffles, cloves, blackcurrants, graphite, beef stock and soy. There is exceptional oak integration throughout, and the wine is well focused. The intensity is an absolute highlight and never wavers. The structure is seamless, right through to the finest of tannins. This is incredibly long on the palate. It should have no difficulty in providing pleasure for at least the next thirty years. Drink now–2055 G 97
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Eisenstone X11 Hoffmann Dallwitz Vineyard Shiraz 2022
G 97
Medium-deep crimson. Pure dark cherry, blackberry pastille aromas with espresso, grilled nut, flinty notes. Inky and smooth with pure ripe dark cherry, blackberry pastille flavours, fine velvety tannins and well-integrated mocha, roasted coffee notes. Finishes Claret-firm with flinty, chinotto nuances. Beautifully balanced and resonating Barossa Shiraz. Drink now–2042 Elderton Command Shiraz 2022 Medium-deep crimson. Intense blackberry, mocha spice aromas with hints of wax polish and marzipan. Supple and evolved blackberry, spice, mocha, espresso flavours, lovely mid-palate richness, and plentiful chalky/touch ferruginous tannins. Some cedarwood, roasted chestnut notes at the finish. Very classical. Drink now–2040 First Drop The Cream Shiraz 2021 The team’s iconic red receives very similar oak treatment (20 months in a mix of 50% new and 50% one-year-old French hogsheads) to the sub-regional offerings, and again, 1200 bottles were produced under Diam. The regional blend for this wine is 40% Seppeltsfield, 35% Ebenezer, and 25% Greenock. An opaque maroon hue, this is a superbly constructed wine, intense and yet always refined, while remaining immaculately balanced. The nose exhibits notes of bay leaves, black fruits, plums, chocolate, warm earth, mocha, aniseed, coffee beans, and root vegetables. The oak is beautifully integrated and there is great length here. A triumph from a scintillating vintage. Drink now–2040 Henschke Cyril Henschke Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 97 Medium-deep crimson. Fragrant cassis, dark plum, sage aromas with hint marzipan notes. Inky deep and generous with saturated blackcurrant, dark plum fruits, some attractive herbal/ sage/ bush garrigue notes, lovely mid-palate density and underlying grilled nut notes. Finishes bittersweet with persistent cassis/ graphite/ brambly notes. A lovely Claret style infused with the perfume and terroir of the Eden Valley. 14.5% alc Drink 2027–2042 Henschke Hill of Roses Shiraz 2021 G 97 Medium-deep crimson. Seductive blackberry pastille, boysenberry, mocha aromas with herbgarden notes. Generously concentrated palate with ample dark berry fruits, some mocha, roasted walnut complexity, fine persistent al dente brambly textures and fresh long quartz-like acidity. Finishes with a grip of firm bittersweet tannins. A muscular version of Hill of Grace with lovely polish, density and flow. Should last the distance. 14.5% alc Drink 2027–2040 G 97 G 97
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Jacob’s Creek Our Limited Release Survivor Vine Shiraz 2021
G 97
An intense purple hue here. Tthe nose is all purple fruits, exhibiting aromas of plums and mulberries. This is plush and yet concentrated and reveals superb use of oak. The great 2021 vintage is shown to advantage here. Finely balanced, the palate moves more to black fruits with blackberry notes, along with tar and graphite. Seamless in structure, it is finely textured and beautifully crafted. A gorgeous Barossa Shiraz with a degree of refinement, there is so much to love here. Will handle twenty years without a hiccup. Under cork. Drink now–2045 Kaesler Wines Old Bastard Shiraz 2022 G 97 From a single vineyard planted in the Barossa back in 1983. Do not let the fun label and irreverent name fool you. This is serious wine. And seriously good wine. An opaque centre with a bright crimson rim, this is a mix of red and black fruits, with notes of cassis, spicy touches, tobacco leaves, chocolate, liquorice and coffee beans. The texture is delightfully plush with real intensity, immaculate balance and great length, finishing with cashmere tannins. The oak integration is superb. One can declare this a twenty-year proposition without hesitation. Love it. Drink now–2045 Levrier Wines by Jo Irvine Grand Levrier Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 G 97 Deep crimson. Very complex with fresh blackberry, vanilla, tobacco, dark chocolate, hint ginger notes. Plush and velvety textured with smooth dark chocolate blackberry fruits, some underlying tobacco notes, supple chocolaty tannins and well-integrated vanilla, marzipan notes. Finishes chocolaty with tobacco spice notes and slight tawny/ wax polish nuances. Impactful and multi-dimensional highlighting meticulous élevage. An experience! Drink now–2045 Mirus Vineyards Block 5 Sand Hill Shiraz 2023 G 97 Deep crimson. Beautiful pure blackberry pastille, mocha aromas with lifted aniseed/ bush garrigue notes. Smooth and chocolaty textured palate with lovely cassis, blackberry fruits, velvety tannins and well- balanced mocha/ espresso oak notes. Finishes chocolaty and long. Lovely richness and vinosity. Eye-catching Barossa Shiraz. Drink now–2036 Orlando Centenary Hill Shiraz 2018 G 97 From a cracking vintage for the region, this wine already has considerable time under its belt, which is very much to its advantage. This is a seriously good wine. The colour is dark purple. There is still concentrated oak evident, but it is high quality and beautifully handled with integration proceeding exactly as it should. There are aromas of chocolate, mocha, soy, graphite, coffee beans and blackberries. Despite the years of maturation it has already, the wine is still fresh and bright and with many years ahead of it. There are very fine tannins here, immaculate balance and extreme length. Love it. Drink now–2045
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Paulmara Estates Aristotle Shiraz 2021
G 97
Deep crimson. Classical dark berry dark chocolate aromas with hints of demi- glace and spice. Concentrated choco-berry fruits with raspberry pastille notes and persistent velvety tannins. Finishes chocolaty with a lovely tannin plume. Complex crème brûlée, roasted chestnut, hint wax polish notes at the finish. Very intuitive winemaking. Drink now–2040 Peter Lehmann Wines Stonewell Shiraz 2018 G 97 Deep crimson. Profoundly intense blackcurrant, brambly dark chocolate aromas with cedarwood/ tobacco leaf notes. Inky deep palate with blackberry pastille, cassis, dark chocolate flavorus, ripe, supple/ gravelly tannins and well-integrated espresso/ cedar notes. A Claret-firm finish with superb length. Wonderful complexity, richness and volume. Drink now–2048 Peter Lehmann Wines Stonewell Shiraz 2019 G 97 For many years, this has been seen as one of the iconic Barossa Shiraz. It is a wine which never lets you down. This is quintessential Barossa Shiraz. The wine spends 15 months maturing in a mix of new and seasoned oak hogsheads before bottling. A very dark maroon colour, this is plush and generous. The nose reveals an explosion of aromas, including blackberries, redcurrants, plums, mulberries, dried herbs, tobacco leaves, cassis and liquorice. Excellent oak integration is evident, and when we move to the palate, the flavours of chocolate, mocha and cassis really come to the fore. The wine has direction, focus, finesse and length. A stunning Barossa Valley Shiraz. 15–20 years standing on its head. Drink now–2045 Rieslingfreak No. 4 Riesling 2025 G 97 A beautifully natural aromatic blossom and minerals with superb fruit acidity and flavour to follow. Effortless and sublime. A great expression to celebrate the region. Drink now–2040 Saltram No 1 Shiraz Shiraz 2021 G 97 2021 has already attained legendary status as one of the greatest vintages for this region for many decades. This wine will do nothing to harm that reputation. Maturation was in large format, older French oak casks, as well as a mix of new and older French oak barrels for a period of 16 months. The move to French oak has paid off in spades. The colour is an opaque black/maroon. This is big, bold, and full of flavour. Classic Barossa Valley Shiraz, this is generous and approachable. Plush, lush and with tongue-coating tannins, this is a cracking wine from a great vintage which has twenty years ahead of it. The flavours revolve around notes of chocolate, coffee beans, cassis, and mocha. Drink 2028–2048
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Schild Estate Moorooroo Shiraz 2022
G 97
Deep crimson. Intense blackberry, dark chocolate aromas with marzipan cedar notes. Massively concentrated and inky with abundant choco-berry fruits, velvety firm tannins and pronounced cedar/ vanilla notes. Finishes chocolaty and smooth. Plush, elemental and monumental, yet not overly dense or cumbersome. Needs more time to come around. Should all come together into one piece. Impressive. Drink 2028–2045 Sons of Eden Remus Old Vine Shiraz 2022 G 97 Deep crimson. Raspberry, blackberry mocha aromas with marzipan, hint bush garrigue notes. Richly flavoured wine, the plentiful red and dark berry fruits, perfectly ripe, gravelly tannins and underlying chinotto notes. Very expressive and beautifully balanced wine. Drink now–2038 Soul Growers Belle Ame Shiraz 2021 G 97 Deep crimson. Espresso, dark chocolate, blackberry, dark plum aromas with hints of star anise. Plush and smooth in texture with superbly/ massively concentrated blackberry dark chocolate, roasted coffee flavours, supple chocolaty/ velvety textures and fresh underlying acidity. Some marzipan notes at the finish. Powerful, yet intricately well balanced. Drink now–2040 Tarrawatta Wines Ambervale Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 97 Deep crimson. Beautiful pure blackcurrant, dark chocolate aromas with hints of violet and herbs. Inky deep with ample cassis, dark chocolate fruits, persistent grainy firm tannins and well-integrated marzipan, vanilla notes. Finishes firm and minerally with some aniseed notes. Top-notch Barossa Cabernet. Drink now–2038 Torbreck Vintners Hillside Vineyard Grenache 2023 G 97 Medium-deep crimson. Beautiful red plum, strawberry, chinotto, liquorice aromas with espresso notes. Gorgeously seductive and buoyant with pure strawberry, red plum fruits, fine slinky textures, lovely mid-palate volume and long pure acidity. Cola/ bittersweet notes at the finish. Very expressive with superb definition, extract and abundance. Drink now–2034
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Yalumba The Steeple Shiraz 2021
G 97
Anyone who ever saw Darren Lockyer or David Campese slice through an opposition backline, Wayne Gretzky on ice, or Michael Jordan on a basketball court will understand the concept of gliding. This supple and sleek texture, with its silky tannins, is the vinous equivalent, gliding effortlessly to a very long finish. From a stellar vintage, this is a single vineyard wine hailing from the sub-region of Light Pass. The vines, biodynamically grown, were planted back in 1919. Fair to say, much can be expected. And much is delivered. A wild ferment before the wine spent 16 months in oak, 15% of which is new, termed the Tonnellerie Sylvain’ Artistic Series’ barriques. They were made from a 365-year-old oak tree (not completely sure that if it was the marketing team, I’d promote chopping up such a venerable old oak tree, but we can say that its demise was not in vain). The wine has a black cherry hue, with a wonderfully enticing nose, which just screams first class Barossa Shiraz. Full of dark berries, chocolate, roast meats, cassis, bay leaves, sage, and mocha, the texture is plush in the extreme. Excellent oak integration (thankfully), there is a supple texture here and immaculate balance. Silky tannins, seriously good length and intensity maintained for the full journey, this is simply delicious, although it surely has at least 15 years ahead of it. Notes of graphite are more prevalent on the palate. It seems that this wine often takes a backseat to some of the others in the portfolio, which seems criminally unfair. This is a gem. Drink now–2040 Penfolds RWT Bin 798 Shiraz 2023 G 96+ Deep crimson. Classic blackberry dark chocolate aromas with marzipan, hint violet notes. Well-concentrated and inky deep with plentiful blackberry pastille, praline flavours, plentiful chalky / graphite/ al-dente tannins, very good mid-palate density and well-balanced marzipan, roasted chestnut notes. Finishes chocolaty with some cedarwood/ bittersweet notes. Still in parts, but lovely shape, volume and flow. Should develop very well. Drink 2028–2045 Torbreck Vintners The Factor Shiraz 2022 G 96+ Deep crimson. Very attractive dark chocolate dark berry wax polish, touch marzipan notes. Richly concentrated and flavourful with black cherry, dark plum stone fruit, cedar marzipan flavours, very good mid- palate richness and plentiful loose-knit grainy tannins. Finishes clearly firm with aniseed notes. Impressively dense and vigorous with lovely flow and length. Stylish and individually Torbreck in style. Let the elements fold further, though. Drink 2027–2038+ Barr Eden Estate Love Over Gold Shiraz 2020 G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Lovely black cherry, raspberry, mocha aromas with hints of bush garrigue. Generous and round with lovely black cherry, raspberry, panforte, mocha flavours and persistent chocolaty/ velvety tannins. Finishes bittersweet and minerally with chinotto/ negroni notes. Lovely balance, density, complexity and vigour. Drink now–2038
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Bethany LE Shiraz 2022
G 96
For me, this is the star of the premium collection for this vintage. The fruit is sourced from a single vineyard in the Flaxman Valley sub-region of the Eden Valley. The fine 2022 vintage seems ideally suited to providing refinement and elegance in the best reds from that region. This wine is a tribute to Lawrence and Edna Schrapel who, for more than half a century, were custodians of the Bethany vineyard. Under cork. A whole berry fermentation was followed by a year and a half of maturation in a combination of French oak hogsheads and puncheons, 72% new. A very dark maroon colour, with purple rim, chocolate, plums, spices, blackberries, mocha, violets and vanilla are all present on the nose. There is seriously impressive oak integration here. The palate is ripe and lifts further, making this a most exuberant style. On the palate we see the move to flavours of mocha, coffee beans and cassis. Richly flavoured, this is absolutely delicious and will drink beautifully over the next 15–20 years. The wine finishes with wonderful length and the silkiest of tannins. Drink now–2045 Burge Family Winemakers Draycott Shiraz 2021 G 96 Now we are right into the exciting stuff. This glorious Barossa Shiraz from the wonderful 2021 vintage, under cork, is opaque purple in colour. The nose ranges through a veritable peacock’s tail of aromas, including chocolate, coffee beans, smoked meats, a touch of vanilla and cinnamon, mocha and liquorice. Excellent oak integration, the wine is balanced with focus, a seductive texture and yet serious intensity, silky tannins and wonderful persistence. This will handle 15 years or more in the cellar with ease, but provide pleasure at any time along the journey. Love it. Drink now–2040 Château Tanunda 100-Year-Old Vines Shiraz 2023 G 96 What a treat wine lovers in Australia can enjoy, with shiraz vines going back over 100 years. These are dry-grown bush vines and the grapes are fermented in small open fermenters with regular hand-plunging. Under cork, 492 dozen were made. An opaque maroon colour, with a dark rim, there is good oak integration proceeding here. The nose gives us notes of chocolate, coffee beans, cocoa powder, aniseed, graphite, black fruits and plums, as well as hints of vanilla from the oak. There is good intensity and a lingering finish. On the palate we see a move to notes of soy, cloves and the aniseed really emerging. The wine finishes with satiny tannins and will drink beautifully over the next 10–20 years. Drink now–2045 Chateau Tanunda 50 Year Old Vines ` Shiraz 2022 G 96 Deep crimson. Richly raspberry, dark cherry aromas with roasted walnut, marzipan notes. Smooth and velvety textured with attractive sweet fruits, sinuous melting tannins and underlying aniseed notes. Lovely chocolaty finish. Archetypal Barossa Shiraz with medium- to long-term ageing potential. Drink now–2035
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Chateau Tanunda 150 Year Old Vines Grenache 2022
G 96
Medium-deep crimson. Pure and ethereal strawberry red cherry aromas with praline, herbgarden notes. Fresh strawberry, red cherry, peppery flavours, fine slinky textures, lovely inky density and underlying roasted walnut nuance. Builds up crunchy and grippy at the finish. Lovely presence, vigour and flow. Very expressive and individual with a medium- to long-term cellaring potential. Drink now–2038 Chateau Tanunda The Everest Shiraz 2022 G 96 Deep crimson. Deep blackberry, roasted chestnut spice, wax polish liquorice aromas. Richly flavoured blackberry panforte liquorice, mocha ginger flavours, chocolaty textures, lovely mid-palate richness and well-integrated crunchy acidity. Should
develop really well. Drink 2028–2044 Corryton Burge Percival Norman Shiraz 2021
G 96
Deep crimson. Attractive blackberry, chinotto, melted chocolate aromas with hint of mint. Generously concentrated with deep-set blackberry, liquorice flavours, fine dense chalky tannins and well-balanced savoury oak nuances. Finishes grainy/ chewy and long. Very good impact and torque. Should cellar for decades. Drink 2027–2045 Craneford Fire Station Truro 1859 Shiraz 2022 G 96 From the excellent 2022 vintage, the fruit was pressed into American oak hogsheads, 40% of them new. Maturation was for an average of two years and only the top barrels were selected for the final blend. The wine is under Diam. Opaque maroon with a purple rim, the nose gives us notes of chocolate, aniseed, mocha, cassis, graphite, mulberries and even a hint of plums and blueberries. Beautifully handled oak here, giving the wine a touch of toast. It offers intensity, balance, satiny tannins and serious length. Dense but dancing, the wine has great length and focus while remaining generous and plush. Enjoy this for the next 15 years. A cracker. Drink now–2040 Eisenstone SV901 Mattcheoss Vineyard Greenock Shiraz 2022 G 96 Deep crimson. Intense black cherry, blackberry aromas with cedar, roasted chestnut hint varnishy notes. Beautifully concentrated, inky deep and buoyant with pure dark berry fruits, fine chocolaty tannins and well-balanced vanilla and roasted chestnut notes. Claret-like finish with attractive mineral length. Keep for a while. Drink 2027–2042
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