Jim Barry's Florita Riesling is drawn from a historic vineyard, now owned by the Barry family. This eJournal includes a complete vertical tasting of the Florita stretching back to the 2004 vintage.
ANDREW CAILLARD MW
– VERTICALS –
FLORITA RIESLING
THE FLORITA VINEYARD The Clare Valley’s historic Florita Vineyard at Watervale, originally planted with fortified wine grape varieties, became the source of John Vickery’s exquisite Leo Buring DW series Watervale Rhine Riesling wines of the 1960s and 1970s. Renowned for their capacity to age well, these cold-fermented wines were hugely admired by the wine trade and collectors. These early contemporary Clare Valley Rieslings possessed a purity and precision that transcended almost everything else around at the time. Sealed under cork, many of the surviving bottles have now evolved beyond their best, but their legendary careers at wine shows and stylish modernity defined expectations of Clare Valley Riesling. Lean and tight, pure and simple, they developed extraordinary aromatic complexity and richness of flavour with age; never losing linear crispness or freshness. Under the moniker of ‘Jim Barry The Florita Riesling’, the vineyard is once again enjoying renewed fame and fortune. The story of the Florita Vineyard is fascinating and highlights the extraordinary transition of winemaking styles during the 1950s and 1960s. Originally it was purposed for fortified wine production and planted in 1946 with palomino, pedro ximinez, trebbiano and the versatile ‘workhorse’ — shiraz. It became the source of Leo Buring’s popular ‘Florita’ brand of sherries which enjoyed great success during the 1950s. In 1951 Leo Buring purchased the vineyard to guarantee supply of material. But after the acquisition of Leo Buring’s business in 1962, the vineyard was gradually replanted with riesling, reflecting extraordinary changes in market conditions and a desire by Ray Kidd, Lindeman’s managing director, to compete with Orlando’s ground-breaking Barossa Rieslings. The combination of John Vickery’s disciplined winemaking, new cold fermentation technology, and the happenstance of a great vineyard site established Florita’s legendary reputation. Dr Max Lake, author of Classic Wines of Australia , believed Florita was one of the finest vineyards in Australia. Although Leo Buring Watervale Rieslings enjoyed great fame during its heyday, Lindeman’s offloaded the vineyard in 1986 after struggling against commercial headwinds. The Florita Vineyard was subsequently acquired by Peter, Mark and John Barry, but the Florita brand was excluded from the deal. This
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The Vintage Journal – Verticals
caused 18 years of frustration within the Barry family because it was not possible to reference the vineyard in any meaningful way. But, for those in the know, Florita has always remained a prime Clare Valley vineyard site. Anonymously it contributed to the increasing reputation of Jim Barry’s Watervale Rieslings during the 1980s, 1990s, and beyond. Once trademark issues were settled (by dint of a trademark lapse), Peter Barry was able to launch the first 2004 Jim Barry Florita Riesling in homage to the vineyard’s past glory and in anticipation of a distinguished future. With a track record of nearly two decades, it has become one of the Clare Valley’s few recognised ‘Grand Cru’ Rieslings. Jim Barry The Florita Riesling is a micro-selection and represents the most exquisite parcels from the near 80-acre vineyard. Most of the vineyard’s production goes into Jim Barry’s highly undervalued and spectacularly good value Watervale Rieslings with Florita generally sourced from Block 26 in the north-western corner of the vineyard, which is the location of the original 1962 plantings. Growing at 398 metres, the Florita vines are well exposed and ventilated. Typically, they are planted on loamy soils over free draining calcareous siltstones derived from Mintaro slate which forms the bedrock. The root system reaches far down, which probably contributes to the nervosity and mineral quality often found in the Florita and Watervale Riesling styles. Typically, the fruit is handpicked and then destemmed and crushed. After draining and a light press through a membrane press, the juice is cold-fermented in stainless steel vats to retain fruit purity, vineyard character and preservation of natural acidity. Over 50% of production is held back for release at between 7 and 20 years of age. Austere, minerally, and vibrant, The Florita Rieslings, were made by winemaker Tom Barry, in part to honour Vickery’s DW style. The youthful precision is massively impressive. Although many bottles are inevitably enjoyed at an elemental age, there is always more to come. With bottle-age, the wines fill out with an increasing overlapping of aromas and flavours. They develop more richness and volume while the acidity binds and lengthens the palate. The alcohols are neatly balanced and create a roundness and appealing vinosity. The screw cap protects the wine from oxidation and promotes gentle maturation and freshness. These are long lived and fine-boned wines and represent a lovely expression of the Clare Valley Riesling aesthetic.
Florita Riesling
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FLORITA RIESLING VERTICAL 2022 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia
G 95+
Pale colour. Flinty lemon, hint grapefruit aromas with floral notes. Beautifully balanced wine with bitter lemon, grapefruit flavours, lacy textures, very good mid-palate concentration and linear fresh cutting acidity. Finishes minerally and long. Lively and animated but nervosity and tension dominate. Bottle age will allow the fruit to develop weight and volume. Cellar for a while. 12.1% alc. Drink 2024–2038 2021 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 96 Pale colour. Lovely floral, camomile, lemon curd, tonic water aromas. Pure fruited and elegant with pure lemon, hint grapefruit flavours, fine chalky/al dente textures, and long indelible acidity. Tonic water notes at the finish. Plenty of vinosity and freshness. Should build mid-palate richness with age. 12.2% alc. Drink now but best later–2032 2020 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 94+ Pale colour. Lifted lemon, lime, ripe grapefruit, hint toasty/oilskin aromas. Generously concentrated and supple with plentiful lemon curd, grapefruit flavours, fine chalky/lacy textures, very attractive mid-palate richness and underlying crunchy acidity. All the elements are in balance. Chalky dry hint bitter finish. A touch advanced but delicious to drink. 12.6% alc. Drink now–2032. 2019 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 95 Pale colour. Fresh complex lemon, thyme, graphite aromas with oilskin notes. Well concentrated and textural with developed baked lemon, herb notes, fine chalky dry textures, ample mid-palate body and fine persistent bell-clear acidity. Finishes chalky firm with superb mineral length. 12.5% alc. Drink now–2030. 2018 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 98 Pale colour. Very evocative wine with fragrant camomile, bitter lemon aromas and underlying toasty/bush garrigue elements. Classic bottle-aged ultra-fine Clare Valley Riesling with ample lemon, lime, toasty flavours, lovely mid-palate richness and superb linear fresh acidity. Brilliant density, complexity and mineral length. 12.1% alc. Drink now–2035.
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2017 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia
G 94
Pale colour. Advanced oilskin, toasty mandarin aromas with herb garden notes. Richly flavoured with developed lemon curd, toast flavours, fine slinky textures, ample fruit sweet/tonic water notes and integrated fresh acidity. Bittersweet finish with al-dente leafy notes. Drinking very well
now. 12.8% alc. Drink now–2030 94 points. 2016 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia
G 96
Pale colour. Intense oilskin, grapefruit lemon aromas with camomile/ herb notes. Ample and sweet-fruited with abundant sweet lemon curd, lime, grapefruit notes, lovely richness, and viscosity. Finishes minerally fresh. A lovely balance of bottle age and primary fruit. The acid structure is very precise and carries the flavours across the palate. A classic vintage. 11.7% alc. Drink now–2040 96 points. 2015 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 94 Pale colour. Fragrant graphite, white flowers, grapefruit, orange skin aromas with herb garden notes. Ample lemon curd, grapefruit, tonic water flavours, fine bittersweet textures and fresh persistent acidity. Finishes bittersweet, chalky and minerally. Plenty of phenolic torque but the structure slightly overshadows the fruit. 12.4% alc. Drink now–2028. 2014 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 96 Pale medium colour. Very complex lemon curd, grapefruit, tonic water, hint camomile aromas with crème brûlée, hint marzipan notes. Beautifully concentrated wine with generous lemon curd, grapefruit, toasty flavours, fine loose knit chalky textures. Finishes bittersweet and crunchy long. Very good. 11.9% alc. Drink now–2034. 2013 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 97 Pale medium colour. Intense grapefruit, lemon curd, mandarin, hint marzipan/ crème brûlée aromas. Beautifully concentrated wine with abundant lemon curd, mandarin fruits, roasted marzipan notes, superb mid-palate richness and fresh long indelible acidity. Finishes chalky and minerally with plentiful sweet-developed lemon curd tonic water notes. Powerful and expressive. 12.1% alc. Drink now–2035.
Florita Riesling
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2012 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia
G 95
Pale medium colour. Developed graphite, camomile, ripe grapefruit, toasty aromas with herb notes. Sweet fruited, ample-bodied and viscid with ripe grapefruit tonic water, toasty flavours, fine loose knit chalky/ al dente textures and underlying linear acidity. Still fresh and delicious to drink. Very well-developed and lasting wine at the peak of drinking. 12.3% alc. Drink now–2030. 2011 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 92 Medium pale colour. Fresh toasty, oil skin, orange mandarin botrytis sage aromas with butterscotch notes. Fully developed wine with plentiful baked citrus fruits, marzipan, butterscotch notes, fine leafy/chalky dry textures and long crisp acidity. Some orange skin notes at the finish. Still drinking well but atypical style. 12.7% alc. Drink now–2028. 2010 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 94 Medium colour. crème brûlée verbena, lime aromas with toasty oils kin notes. Richly concentrated wine with ample brown lime, baked lemon, crème brûlée /toffee flavours, fine slinky/pear skin textures and crunchy long acidity. Mouthwatering finish. Fully developed and delicious to drink. 12.1% alc. Drink now–2028. 2009 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 91 Medium colour. Advanced crème brûlée, toffee-apple, brown lime, bruised fruit aromas with toasty/ oil skin notes. Richly concentrated with abundant developed toasty, lime, crème brûlée flavours, fine loose knit textures and integrated mineral acidity. Ready to drink but should hold. 12.1% alc. Drink now–2028. 2008 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 92 Medium pale colour. Fragrant camomile, herb garden, lemon, pyrethrum aromas with leafy notes. Baked lemon, lime flavours, fine chalky/leafy textures and persistent high-pitched racy acidity. Finishes minerally and tight. 11.4% alc. Drink now–2030. 2007 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 93 Medium colour. Very developed toffee, crème brûlée, butterscotch and baked lemon aromas. Very developed palate with ample fruit complexity, fine loose knit chalky textures, attractive mid-pale viscosity and integrated acidity. Very satisfying but ready to drink. Reminiscent of Leo Buring wines. 13.3% alc. Drink now–soon.
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2005 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia
G 99
Medium colour. Beautifully complex wine with toasty, honeyed. Lemon curd aromas. Superbly concentrated and complex wine with lemon honey, toasty flavours, fine loose knit chalky/al dente textures, super viscosity, and fresh linear acidity. A wonderful old wine. 13.4% alc. Drink now–soon. 2004 Jim Barry Florita Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia G 93 Medium colour. Intense lemon curd, amontillado, nutty with herb leafy notes. Well concentrated and developed with toasty amontillado, baked lemon fruits, fine chalky textures, some viscosity and fresh long mineral acidity. Bittersweet finish with tobacco leaf notes. 12.8% alc. Drink now–soon.
Florita Riesling
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Copyright © The Vintage Journal 2022 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without the prior permission in writing from the author and copyright holders.
About the Author Andrew Caillard MW is the author of several books including Penfolds The Rewards of Patience (six editions), Imagining Coonawarra, A Travel Through Time (the history of leading Spanish winery Marques de Riscal) and co-authored educational books Australian Wine and A Taste Around The World of Wine . The Essence of Dreams (the history of the Mornington Peninsula’s wine industry) will be published in 2022. Andrew has also written a definitive history of Australian wine with plans for publication in 2023. The Vintage Journal draws on research, experience and tasting expertise gathered during over 40 years working in the secondary market, the corporate retail world, the wine media, film and painting.
Florita Riesling
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