In our McLaren Vale tasting, it was a pleasure to see so many other varieties represented. Wines made from grenache blanc, roussanne, fiano, chenin blanc, vermentino, chardonnay, viognier, carignan, touriga, saperavi, tempranillo, mourvedre, cabernet franc, graciano, mencia, merlot, montepulciano, nero d’avola, petit verdot, primitivo and sangiovese scored over 90 points. The sheer diversity amply illustrates both McLaren Vale’s ‘give anything a go’ attitude and that the region’s Mediterranean climate can be successful for a wide variety of grapes. Many of these wines were made with relatively young vines, so the best is definitely still to come. In addition, most of these varieties are capable of crafting interesting local wines with generosity and approachability. The real question, though, is which are the standouts worth pursuing, outside of grenache and cabernet sauvignon? Our tasting certainly answered that question, with a handful of wines proving to be real eye-openers. Coriole’s Rubato Reserve Fiano 2021 was an absolute revelation, in terms of its complexity but also thanks to delicious volume and texture. This is a wine that could stand tall amongst stiff international competition. The Rhone twins of roussanne and grenache blanc from Yangarra also provided highlights: roussanne thanks to its raw power and immediate fruit complexity, while the delicacy and subtlety of the Ovitelli Grenache Blanc was quite breathtaking. For red wines it was the Rioja varietals of tempranillo and graciano combined with touriga, and wines from S.C. Pannel, Battle of Bosworth, and Hither & Yon, which seduced thanks to their slinky style, savoury appeal and hearty flavours. The Inkwell Primitivo also deserves a hearty mention, thanks to its impressive density, volume and sheer decadence. Other varieties, such as mourvedre, cabernet franc, mencia and nero d’avola, showed potential but are still developing their voice in the region. McLaren Vale offers consumers a dependable proposition, while local winemakers have an incredibly unique palate with which to work and create a wide range of impressive wines. As well, it feels like a region in flux that is embracing change and looking to the future. It will be exciting to see what the coming decades will bring.
McLaren Vale
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