popular. McLaren Vale will always be a place where stacks of pleasure and flavour are practically guaranteed. But as we tasted our way around McLaren Vale, it became clear that change was in the air. The wines, overall, were better balanced than in years past; taking the foot off the ripeness accelerator has been a move in the right direction. New oak use is coming back, and the sensible use of stalks also added detail. In the best wines, the terroir speaks with a ferruginous voice, bringing in a more savoury personality that beautifully complements McLaren Vale’s naturally sweeter side. But it is not only on the Shiraz front where McLaren Vale is spreading its wings: foremost with Grenache, but also other alternate varieties, particularly from Italy and Spain. The thirst for width was perhaps best illustrated at the recent McLaren Vale Wine Show, with the victory by the 2021 Hither & Yon Aglianico showing where many believe the future of the region lies. Drinkability and approachability appear to be front of mind for many winemakers, although there are plenty of wines clearly built for the cellar. Of the twenty-odd red grape varieties grown in McLaren Vale, shiraz is by far the most prolific, making up 70% of the crush. McLaren Vale Shiraz, though, is a diverse beast. In fact, some would argue that McLaren
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