wine industry, its propensity towards producing large volumes of pale- coloured wines was poorly viewed. In 1986 the government vine-pull scheme saw McLaren Vale alone lose 310 hectares of mostly old-vine grenache. Not all the vines were physically pulled out, however. Some growers couldn’t be bothered and just allowed their vineyards to run fallow. As it turned out, these hardy bush vines were almost impossible to kill, thriving even in complete neglect. Ironically, it is this very trait of grenache not only to survive but thrive in a warm, dry environment that has proven to be so important in the era of climate change. Grenache’s suitability to a warm, dry climate, together with its intrinsic hardiness, has resulted in a small but veritable treasure trove of old-vine grenache in McLaren Vale. Some vines are now more than 100 years old, often dry-grown, and still eking out small volumes of superb quality fruit. The renewed global interest in old vines, together with the current trend for lighter, fresher reds, has seen a reversal of grenache’s fortunes. In 2020, for the first time in more than 60 years, grape prices for grenache outstripped Shiraz in the region. The demand for low-yielding old bush vine fruit in particular has led to a mini arms race in the region, especially in the Blewitt Springs sub-region, as producers rush to either purchase remaining vineyards or source the best fruit from McLaren Vale’s most sought-after growers.
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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