Meanwhile, McLaren Vale’s Scarce Earth project was inaugurated by growers Adrian Kenny and Dudley Brown in 2011 to further the cause of Shiraz and single sites. With more than ‘30 geologies’ in the region, the project aimed to encourage winemakers to investigate the micro- geography of their vineyards including geology, soils, elevation, slope, aspect, rainfall, and distance from the coast. One of the most detailed geological wine maps in the world was also produced with the help of McLaren Vale resident wine writer Phillip White. Original workings by geologist Bill Fairburn were also improved by geologist Jeff Olliver and viticulturalist Jock Harvey. The value of old vines was further enhanced by the Old Vine Charter (inaugurated by the Barossa’s Yalumba in 2007), which defined the timelines of old vines (35 years +), Survivor Vines (75 years +), Centenarian Vines (100 years+), and Ancestor Vines (125 years+). Although this has not been officially adopted by McLaren Vale vignerons, the consumer has broadly accepted these definitions. Although the first vines were planted in the Southern Vales in the 1840s, urbanisation and economic pressures saw these early vineyards pulled out. The development of South Australia’s bulk red wine export market during the late 1880s, 1890s and 1900s saw many plantings in McLaren Vale. These form the majority of heirloom vineyards in the region. Significant plantings of Grenache in the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s highlight the wine industry’s reliance on fortified wine production after the export bounty Act of 1924 changed the trajectory of Australian wine. McLaren Vale’s heritage is steeped in 19th Century and early 20th Century aspirations, and I believe that its future is still connected strongly to Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Grenache. These heirloom grape varieties excel in the region and offer the best in quality, character and longevity. During the 1870s, Mataro and Carignan were also prolific. While alternative grape varieties allow winemakers to imagine new expressions of the McLaren Vale aesthetic, I think it is a mistake to believe that the region’s future depends on them. Nonetheless, there are a few very fine examples that show the potential of these grape varieties and the diversity they may offer. Fiano seems to be particularly expressive, while traditional white Rhone varieties seem to have potential. With plantings going back to the 1930s, Chenin Blanc also offers something different. Sangiovese, first brought to Australia in the late 1800s, remains relatively obscure but some great examples exist.
McLaren Vale
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