Dead Arm Cabernet Shiraz (it switched to Shiraz in 1994), based on “truncated, gap-toothed” old vines dating back to 1912, which brought renewed interest and understanding of McLaren Vale’s heritage. Inspired by the classic South Australian wines of the 1950s and 1960s, particularly Penfolds, Roman Bratasiuk, a former biochemist, bought the old Elysium winery at Blewitt Springs, near Clarendon in McLaren Vale. By chance, he found the nearby 10-acre Astralis Vineyard as a source of “as good as you can get” Shiraz. The vines were first planted in 1920 with 19th-century colonial vinestock derived from Chateau Reynella. The 1994 vintage sparked controversy and awe by becoming Australia’s first wine to be released at over $100 a bottle. The polarising 1996 vintage caused an even bigger stir with derision and ridicule among Australian wine show judges and critics. But like Grange of the 1950s, Astralis ultimately transcended this cosy club of opinion makers. Around the 2000s, a new influx of Italian and European grape varieties was made available to Australian vignerons. Chalmers Nurseries, established by Bruce and Jenni Chalmers during the 1980s, were instrumental in diversifying and improving the availability of new vinestock material, especially after the importation of 70 clones and grape varieties in 2000. Italian varieties are, in theory, well suited to the Mediterranean and warm climate conditions across Australia with their naturally high acidities and flavour profiles. During the 2000s, many vignerons around Australia including McLaren Vale, increasingly aware of the changing climate, water availability and the need for sustainable practices, looked at alternative grape varieties as both insurance and opportunity. Vignerons including Coriole, d’Arenberg, Geoff Hardy, Serafino, Oliver’s Taranga, Alpha Box and Dice and Steven Pannell were particularly active in establishing new vineyards with Sangiovese, Primitivo, Nebbiolo, Mencia, Barbera, Nero d’Avola, Montepulciano, Pinot Grigio, Fiano, Vermentino and other varieties. Mark Lloyd at Coriole was early to recognise McLaren Vale’s potential for Italian varieties and planted Sangiovese back in 1985, with the first wines becoming available in the late 1980s. From the early 2000s, McLaren Vale was enjoying renewed prestige with fine wine collectors. A subtle change was beginning to emerge with the arrival of new entrants. Oliver’s Taranga, well-known grape growers in the area, pivoted to wine production and immediately captured
McLaren Vale
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