it does have wonderful singularity and authenticity. The vineyard is in more open rolling country and still possesses surviving old vines going back to the late 19th century. The new cellars are amazing and foreshadow great things to come. I particularly like Haut-Bailly II which, in any other given year, might not resonate as much. Domaine de Chevalier, Château Les Carmes de Haut-Brion, Château Pape Clément and Château Smith Haut Lafitte have all made lovely wine with earthy richness and mineral torque. But this is also a region where some lesser known Chateaux have produced some good wines, notably Château La Garde and Château Rahoul. Saint-Émilion Château Cheval Blanc is the poster wine of the 2022 vintage in Saint- Émilion. It has marvellous volume, purity and mineral length. The team, headed up by Pierre Lurton and the remarkable talent Pierre Olivier Clouet, have transformed the estate in the last 10 years. The investment in regenerative agriculture and agro-forestry, combined with the best possible equipment and creative minds, have contributed to a golden era at the estate. Some observers believed that Cheval Blanc picked too early, but the wine is about as honest and authentic as perfection will allow. With no second label to be bottled, the wine highlights the homogeneity of the vintage. It promises to be remembered for its transcendent quality. But other estates also performed really well, highlighting the brilliance and resilience of merlot, not to mention an embarrassment of riches throughout the sub-region. Château Angélus, Château Ausone, Château Bélair Monange, Château Canon, Clos Cantenac, Clos Fourtet, Château Figeac, Château La Dominique, Château Pavie-Macquin, Château Quinault L’Enclos, the eccentric Château Le Tertre-Roteboeuf, Château Troplong Mondot, Château Trotte Vielle and Château Valandraud all performed well and promise to develop more complexity and interest with age. The concentrated and chocolaty Château Pavie is also an interesting wine and will have its avid followers – it’s very good, but I wonder how it will unfold. It could be better than I currently think, but it seems quite listless as a young wine.
Bordeaux 2022
15
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