(if they are produced this year), like Carruades de Lafite, Petit Mouton, La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou, Clos du Marquis, La Petite l’Église-Clinet, etc. If extreme weather conditions persist, once-marginal vineyard sites may well represent opportunity for entrepreneurial winemakers. Yet, the narrative of fine wine is not just about the soil. Tradition, history and generations of effort bring a sense of occasion when opening the wines when they are ready to drink. Although 2022 will be remembered as a great red wine year, there were some excellent white wines made, as well. Whilst Bordeaux Blanc is a highly specialised category in Australia, there were some very decent Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blends this year. Without disease pressure, the grapes reached optimum maturity and produced wines with lovely definition, roundness and minerality. While Haut-Brion Blanc is an exemplar, and something quite special, the price will be more mouth- watering than the acidities. Domaine de Chevalier and Pavillon Blanc (of Château Margaux) offer much better value. Sauternes-Barsac wines are also looking very good and have been the recipients of some hype, Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey being a prime example – although I found it a touch heavy, and way off a perfect score. Although time prevented me from visiting Châteaux Climens and d’Yquem this year, I tasted several wines from the vintage. They are quite classical in style, with plenty of honeyed botrytis notes, very good mid-palate viscosities and fresh acidities. Their exact place in vintage history will be subject to some debate, but the 2022 Sauternes-Barsacs are up there with many of the best. Château Coutet, an Australian favourite, was a stand-out. With higher interest rates, a weakening economy and the promise of higher release prices this year, the forthcoming 2022 Bordeaux Primeurs campaign will inevitably create a mixture of resistance and fear of missing out. Although some critics are hedging their bets regarding its absolute quality, most will agree that it is an exceptional vintage for red wines. It’s almost incomparable, and certainly transcends the impressive trifecta of the 2018, 2019 and 2020 vintages. Some people are recalling the great 1945, 1947 and 1949 vintages, but ultimately it is in a class of its own. For those who love Bordeaux wines, this is a vintage of the ages. The wines are so expressive, concentrated, buoyant, and fresh. With some years of cellaring, they will bring great pleasure to those who have the patience and enlightenment to wait for them to unfold.
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The Vintage Journal – International Series
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