This eJournal is Andrew Caillard's definitive guide to the Bordeaux's En Primeur campaign for the outstanding 2022 vintage including over 250 tasting notes and scores.
ANDREW CAILLARD MW
– INTERNATIONAL SERIES –
BORDEAUX EN PRIMEUR 2022
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ii The Vintage Journal – International Series Château Lalande de Pomerol
CONTENTS
2022 BORDEAUX: INEXPLICABLY MAGNIFICENT!
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The 2022 Primeurs
11 12 12 13 13 14 15 16 16 17 18
Saint-Estèphe
Pauillac
Saint Julien
Margaux
Pessac-Léognan
Saint-Émilion
Pomerol
Bordeaux Blanc Sauternes-Barsac
A brief note on scores!
TASTING NOTES
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Place du Palais, Bordeaux
2022 BORDEAUX: INEXPLICABLY MAGNIFICENT!
The enlightened and charming Véronique Sanders of Pessac-Léognan’s Château Haut-Bailly described Bordeaux’s 2022 vintage as ‘prophetic’. Many other vignerons also believe that extreme weather conditions during the annual growing season will continue into the future. This outlook has resulted in remarkable investments in new equipment (frost machines, particularly), AI technologies and sustainable farming techniques. This challenge is also creating more enlightened thinking. The 2022 vintage season has shown that empathy, inventiveness, environmental responsibility and skill can overcome or mitigate the existential threat of climate change. The year 2022 could have been a disaster, but it wasn’t. It is a magnificent year, reflecting the best of nurture, the natural resilience of vines and the mystery of life. The scientific community, winemakers and vignerons are still reflecting on how such a miracle happened and where the vintage sits in history. Spring saw a series of black frosts in April, but most vignerons were prepared with their frost machines or frost pots. Early-ripening merlot vines were the most exposed, but cabernet sauvignon had not reached budburst and was not impacted. The three heatwaves that hit the region, in June, July and August, worried vignerons who believed that the vines would suffer greatly or die. There was also a feeling that the grapes would become overripe and lose their freshness and aromatic intensity. But these feelings of anxiety would later transform into ones of relief and elation. Although this is not a typical or traditional Bordeaux vintage (whatever that means these days!), the young primeur wines are incredibly beautiful, with superb fruit definition, richness of flavour and structure. They have some way to go, but the overall definition, balance and structures are very impressive. Olivier Berrouet of Château Petrus aptly described the 2022s as showing ‘lovely density but not being overly saturated’. Ultimately, this was a ‘solar vintage’ with remarkable
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freshness, unlike the 2003 vintage which suffered from extreme heat and above average night temperatures. In this respect 2022 is a great Bordeaux year of extraordinary singularity and may well become one of the legendary vintages of the 21st century. The hot dry sunny conditions from Spring onwards pushed along the growing season at a rapid rate, resulting in the earliest harvest ever recorded, with the first red wine grapes being gathered in late August. At Château Cheval Blanc in Saint-Émilion, the picking began on the 29th August and lasted until the 20th September. Château Lafite Rothschild, on the left bank, started harvesting on 31st August, while nearby Château Latour began on 6th September, but both finished on the 24th September. Château Lafite Rothschild reported ‘each of these plots, which we know by heart, reacted differently in the face of adversity. Mamizelle made sparks fly, while Caudeyrac got its fingers burnt.’ The high drama of the growing season created great anxieties, but the vineyards proved to be resilient and offered up the most surprising results. The fruit ripened perfectly, and the acidities were sufficient to provide freshness and mineral backbone. Although some Châteaux considered acidification (a common Australian practice) after high pH readings in pre-harvest samples, some extra natural acidities were released from the skins during fermentation, resulting in wines that completely exceeded expectations. Although the Bordeaux negociants and Château proprietors are prone to talking up the vintage, their descriptions of the 2022 being ‘a miracle’ or ‘magnificent’ year resonates. Although the many Châteaux across the sub-regions experienced slightly different circumstances, the overall season was the same, with an extraordinary number of sunshine hours during July (349) and August (348). This translated to 11 hours and 15 minutes of warm, full sunlight days and prodigious ripening conditions. Although daytime temperatures were much higher than average, nighttime temperatures were generally cool, which undoubtedly promoted the retention of acidities during the grape-ripening period. The rain in June (80mm in Saint-Émilion) replenished soil moistures and protected the root systems from hydric stress during the extreme summer heat and dry conditions. Although vignerons feared the worst and believed the vines might possibly shut down, there were few physical
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signs of struggle in many vineyards. In hindsight, many observers believe the vines adapted well to the weather conditions because the warm to hot weather gradually gathered momentum through May, June, July and August. This allowed the vines to adapt, and push their roots deeper into the soils to find moisture. Rather than giving in to the drought conditions, the vines proved remarkably resilient. The field of grapevine epigenetics may give vignerons a better understanding of how vines acclimatise to the environment. This phenotype plasticity, as it is called, is cause for optimism. It means that vignerons can look forward to a future with cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and other traditional regional varieties. And we can look forward to wines that connect with place and history. The extreme June heat culminated in a massive atmospheric upheaval on the 20th/ 21st June. A hailstorm of ice, the size of golf balls, cut a swathe through the vineyards of the Médoc and Saint-Estèphe, causing
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significant crop losses for some vignerons caught in its pathway. At Château Phélan Ségur, it wiped out a few prized cabernet sauvignon vineyards and, as a consequence, its 2022 vintage comprises an unusually high percentage of merlot – 56%. Although the left bank is associated with free-draining gravelly soils, the older vines, with their deep roots anchored in heavier moisture-holding clays, ultimately performed really well. Pessac-Léognan, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe all triumphed over the extreme challenges of the season. The right bank in Saint-Émilion, Pomerol and outlying satellite sub-regions, with their heavier limestone and clay soils, also excelled despite the heat and drought conditions. Typically, there are always one or two sub-regions that outperform others, but the homogeneity of the 2022 growing season across the entire Bordeaux wine region has resulted in a very uniform year, notwithstanding the individuality of vineyard plots and terroirs. Many vignerons in the region commented on the verdant and healthy conditions of the vineyards during the summer. Although some vineyard managers sprayed their vines with chalk/clay sunscreen applications to protect bunches from sunburn, many vignerons nurtured the vines through meticulous canopy management. Cover cropping and mulching between vine rows also helped keep soils in a healthy condition and reduce evaporation. The increasing use of regenerative agriculture and
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sustainable, organic and biodynamic viticulture have played a big part in keeping vineyards healthy. At Château Cheval Blanc, the extraordinary work spent building a resilient ecosystem appears to have paid off: the vineyards are spectacular and alive. Three thousand trees have been planted between the vines to promote biodiversity and fertility. Although agroforestry in vineyards is still specialised and rare, many of Bordeaux’s top Chateaux have introduced similar initiatives to promote biodiversity, soil health and resilience. Château Haut-Bailly, Château Pontet-Canet, Château Palmer, Château Latour and many others have shown leadership in building a long-term sustainable future. All of these initiatives also lead to less soil compaction, fewer pass-throughs, more biomass and improved natural balance. Although anxieties were heightened with the long absence of decent rain, the hot dry weather conditions and a lack of disease pressure in August and before allowed the grapes to ripen very well, with tannins reaching full phenological maturity by the end of the month. This was helped by light rainfall in late August, which cooled the air rather than rehydrating the soils. But some vineyards, mostly with newer plots, were unable to cope with the stress. Younger vines on gravelly soils with undeveloped root systems struggled or died, but by and large, most
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Buy from wineries.
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vineyards survived and prospered, although ill fate was experienced by some vignerons. The extreme hot weather around 11th August led to an outbreak of a ‘monster fire’ at Landiras, 30 kilometres south-east of Bordeaux. Although a few vineyards in the area were badly damaged – notably the cult vineyard Liber Pater – the overall impact of the fires was negligible, or so it seems. The fires swept through 27,000 hectares of tinder dry forest and around 10,000 people were advised to leave their homes. But the prevailing winds dispersed the smoke further south. Although some haze wafted over Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, the concentration of smoke was not enough to impact the grapes. Other fires were also prevalent in the Graves and Médoc regions, but it seems that the Chateaux have dodged the proverbial bullet. Having tasted many wines from the vintage, there seems to be no cause for concern. This is also confirmed by no reports of smoke taint in returning samples from laboratory tests. Fine weather during September allowed most vignerons to enjoy ‘à la carte harvesting’, where the mild and dry conditions provided ideal and leisurely picking conditions. Although yields were generally significantly down, the quality of the grapes was exceptional, with thick black skins, ripe tannins and sufficient acidities to give freshness and mineral length. Overall, merlot performed extremely well, developing thick skins, plenty of flavour and ripe tannins. The later-ripening cabernet sauvignon accumulated higher sugars and powerful tannin structures. Cabernet franc also ripened very well, adding a briskness and freshness to the final blends, especially in Saint-Émilion. Many Chateaux were able to use their press wines in their final blends because the tannins were so soft and pleasurable. Château Lafite Rothschild used 17% press wine in its final Grand Vin blend, which is remarkable. It promises to ‘exalt the soul’ of the wine. Château Léoville-Las Cases used around 8% and Château Margaux used around 12% in their final blends. This highlights the quality and suppleness of the tannins. Although yields were down to as little as 25 hectolitres per hectare (normally 30–35 hl/h), many producers didn’t bother to make second wines because of high-quality grand vin selections. On the other hand, cynics might argue that these decisions were made to mitigate potential financial shortfalls. Ultimately, however, the wines speak for themselves. Margaret River WA 6285 Cellar Door Leeuwin Estate View
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While sorting machines, precision and batch vinification techniques have been around for a long time now, it is interesting to see how plot-by- plot handling and more detailed attention have resulted in more purity and expression of fruit. Although maturation in oak barriques has been a long-term technique for wine aging, the use of larger format oak foudres and concrete amphorae are increasingly prevalent. At Château Latour, new oak flavours are diminished by hot-water steaming before the wine is matured in barrels. These practices highlight a vision for shaping wines that reflect vineyard sites and selection of the best parcels. In years gone by, new oak was seen as a mark of quality, but few people think that now. The complex maturation effect where the elements fold into each other, without any dominating, offers a far more exquisite and timeless experience. But these outlooks are not unique to Bordeaux. This trend is happening in Italy, Spain, other parts of France, Australia, California, South Africa, and elsewhere as well.
Bordeaux countryside
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Although the yields were generally much lower than normal, the exceptionally small berries and rich flavours gave a special shine to Bordeaux’s red wine vintage. The alcohols generally range between 14% and 14.5%, although there are several examples that hit 15% alcohol. These latter wines are mostly very well balanced and seem to have retained freshness and vinosity. One of the main markers of the vintage is the lovely bittersweet textures which lengthen the wines. Combined with the mineral, touch saline acidities, the amazing densities and torque, the 2022 vintage promises to produce some very long-lasting, complex and beautiful clarets. The even weather conditions also allowed Châteaux with modest reputations to make their best wines ever. This includes Martin and daughter Charlotte Krajewski’s Château Séraphine in Pomerol, the quirky Domaine de l’Aurage in Castillon and Château Phélan Ségur in Saint-Estèphe. Pomerol’s Château Rouget was a surprise and is probably the best I have seen. This is also the case for second wines
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(if they are produced this year), like Carruades de Lafite, Petit Mouton, La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou, Clos du Marquis, La Petite l’Église-Clinet, etc. If extreme weather conditions persist, once-marginal vineyard sites may well represent opportunity for entrepreneurial winemakers. Yet, the narrative of fine wine is not just about the soil. Tradition, history and generations of effort bring a sense of occasion when opening the wines when they are ready to drink. Although 2022 will be remembered as a great red wine year, there were some excellent white wines made, as well. Whilst Bordeaux Blanc is a highly specialised category in Australia, there were some very decent Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blends this year. Without disease pressure, the grapes reached optimum maturity and produced wines with lovely definition, roundness and minerality. While Haut-Brion Blanc is an exemplar, and something quite special, the price will be more mouth- watering than the acidities. Domaine de Chevalier and Pavillon Blanc (of Château Margaux) offer much better value. Sauternes-Barsac wines are also looking very good and have been the recipients of some hype, Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey being a prime example – although I found it a touch heavy, and way off a perfect score. Although time prevented me from visiting Châteaux Climens and d’Yquem this year, I tasted several wines from the vintage. They are quite classical in style, with plenty of honeyed botrytis notes, very good mid-palate viscosities and fresh acidities. Their exact place in vintage history will be subject to some debate, but the 2022 Sauternes-Barsacs are up there with many of the best. Château Coutet, an Australian favourite, was a stand-out. With higher interest rates, a weakening economy and the promise of higher release prices this year, the forthcoming 2022 Bordeaux Primeurs campaign will inevitably create a mixture of resistance and fear of missing out. Although some critics are hedging their bets regarding its absolute quality, most will agree that it is an exceptional vintage for red wines. It’s almost incomparable, and certainly transcends the impressive trifecta of the 2018, 2019 and 2020 vintages. Some people are recalling the great 1945, 1947 and 1949 vintages, but ultimately it is in a class of its own. For those who love Bordeaux wines, this is a vintage of the ages. The wines are so expressive, concentrated, buoyant, and fresh. With some years of cellaring, they will bring great pleasure to those who have the patience and enlightenment to wait for them to unfold.
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The 2022 Primeurs I first arrived in Bordeaux as a stagiaire in 1979 and worked the vintage at Château Paveil de Luze, near Soussans and close to Margaux. After a long time selling Bordeaux wines through live and silent bid wine auctions, Stewart Langton and I decided to jump in and import Bordeaux wines en primeur for Langton’s clientele. I have been regularly travelling to Bordeaux most Aprils to assess and report on the vintage for around 20 years. Unlike some of the key wine critics who spend several weeks tasting through every highway and byway of Bordeaux, we have always mainly concentrated on those wines imported into Australia. Over the years it has become more and more complicated to taste all of the wines. Many Châteaux insist on wine critics coming to their estates to taste their wines. The list gets longer and longer, and the appointments have become more of a struggle to manage. This year, I worked with Caroline Matthews of Bordeaux Uncorked and Emma Thienpont of International First Growths
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Château Palmer
to cover as many bases as possible. Meanwhile, the Bordeaux negoçiants and the Union des Grand Crus and other regional associations provide access to the majority of wines being sold through La Place de Bordeaux. Although I do taste a few wines blind, the overwhelming majority is assessed with the knowledge of the producer’s identity. Although this can lead to unconscious or even conscious bias, there is a truth that the best wines are made by the wealthiest and best resourced Châteaux. These are inevitably the First Growth Châteaux or equivalent. Their reputations are often richly deserved, although for us mere mortals, they are almost out of reach. Nonetheless, the 2022 Primeurs promise to offer collectors and wine drinkers a spectacular array of high-quality vintages that will be accessible at more modest prices. There are many outstanding petit chateaux and second-label wines, as well. Although there are predictions that the Châteaux will raise their prices a bit, there are some great wines to hunt down. Saint-Estèphe Although Saint-Estèphe, the most northerly sub region of the Médoc, experienced hail during June, and the dramas of a hot dry growing season, there are many great wines in the making. Château Cos d’Estournel and Château Montrose have made lovely wines but Château Calon-Ségur and neighbouring Château Phélan Ségur are especially worth seeking out. Château Tronquoy, previously known as Château Tronquoy-Lalande, is very modern and buoyant. Second labels La Dame de Montrose and Pagodes de Cos are very good and promise a wonderful cellaring future. Pauillac Château Latour has made an exceptional vintage, but the 2022 will not be released for many years, but for those people under 50, it will be an estate to seek out in the future. In the meantime, Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Lafite Rothschild are in brilliant form. But for those seeking value, the go-to wines are Château Batailley, Château Duhart- Milon, Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Château Lynch-Bages, Château Clerc Milon, Château d’Armailhac, Château Pichon Baron and Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. These are all beautiful wines
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showing wonderful definition, density and torque. Château Pontet- Canet was probably not showing its best when I visited the estate, but the concentration, suppleness and fruit power were impressive. Ultimately, Pauillac lies in the heart of cabernet sauvignon country. Saint Julien Château Léoville-Las Cases, which borders the vineyards of neighbouring Château Latour, is a pretender to being a First Growth. Although this will never happen, the market generally thinks very highly of this estate. Under Guillaume Prats, the whole image has been given a massive overhaul. The 2022 vintage has great density and richness, and should develop into something very special. Clos du Marquis, really an estate wine with its own identity, is very good and worth seeking out, as it does benefit from the Léoville-Las Cases stardust. Château Ducru-Beaucaillou is also spectacular, but so is La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou, essentially the estate’s second label, but in a year like this, it punches above its weight. Château Léoville-Poyferré and Château Léoville Barton are brilliant this year. The latter has always been a favourite of the English wine trade because it is reasonably priced, compared to others. This year there is an extra plushness, but the classic fine-grained textures and cedar notes confirm its origins. Château Talbot, Château Branaire-Ducru and, especially, Château Beychevelle are also worth seeking out. Margaux Château Margaux is marvellous, and one of the finest wines of the vintage, while its second label, Pavillon Rouge, is also impressive. Château Palmer and the merlot-dominant Alter Ego de Palmer are also a brilliant duo. Thomas Duroux has really taken this estate to a higher altitude and the Grand Vin flies in the company of the very best Chateaux of the left bank. Unfortunately, demand for it has seen prices escalate, but this doesn’t diminish its wonderful quality this year. For those with more careful pockets, Châteaux Giscours, Cantenac-Brown, Brane-Cantenac, Marquis de Terme and Rauzan-Ségla have performed well and should be on any buying list for those who like this sub region. Château Lascombes also shows promise and, under its new American owner, Gaylon Lawrence,
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and his star winemaker Axel Heinz, I expect the 2022 will ultimately show some very good form. Minerality – a combination of tannins and acidities – are a common thread. Although the region is best known for its slinky loose-knit red wines, Château Margaux’s Pavillon Blanc, based on sauvignon blanc, is also one of the best white wines of the vintage. Pessac-Léognan Château Haut-Brion and Château La Mission Haut-Brion are impressively concentrated, richly flavoured, complex wines that will develop brilliantly. But other stalwarts of the region have performed well too. Château Haut-Bailly has achieved greater recognition in recent years for its classicism and appealing age-worthiness. Although it’s not considered by many as being at the same level as Château Haut-Brion,
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it does have wonderful singularity and authenticity. The vineyard is in more open rolling country and still possesses surviving old vines going back to the late 19th century. The new cellars are amazing and foreshadow great things to come. I particularly like Haut-Bailly II which, in any other given year, might not resonate as much. Domaine de Chevalier, Château Les Carmes de Haut-Brion, Château Pape Clément and Château Smith Haut Lafitte have all made lovely wine with earthy richness and mineral torque. But this is also a region where some lesser known Chateaux have produced some good wines, notably Château La Garde and Château Rahoul. Saint-Émilion Château Cheval Blanc is the poster wine of the 2022 vintage in Saint- Émilion. It has marvellous volume, purity and mineral length. The team, headed up by Pierre Lurton and the remarkable talent Pierre Olivier Clouet, have transformed the estate in the last 10 years. The investment in regenerative agriculture and agro-forestry, combined with the best possible equipment and creative minds, have contributed to a golden era at the estate. Some observers believed that Cheval Blanc picked too early, but the wine is about as honest and authentic as perfection will allow. With no second label to be bottled, the wine highlights the homogeneity of the vintage. It promises to be remembered for its transcendent quality. But other estates also performed really well, highlighting the brilliance and resilience of merlot, not to mention an embarrassment of riches throughout the sub-region. Château Angélus, Château Ausone, Château Bélair Monange, Château Canon, Clos Cantenac, Clos Fourtet, Château Figeac, Château La Dominique, Château Pavie-Macquin, Château Quinault L’Enclos, the eccentric Château Le Tertre-Roteboeuf, Château Troplong Mondot, Château Trotte Vielle and Château Valandraud all performed well and promise to develop more complexity and interest with age. The concentrated and chocolaty Château Pavie is also an interesting wine and will have its avid followers – it’s very good, but I wonder how it will unfold. It could be better than I currently think, but it seems quite listless as a young wine.
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Pomerol The wonderful Château Vieux, Château Certan, and an extraordinarily pure but almost impossible to procure Château Petrus are highlights of the Pomerol vintage, but they lead a strong field of merlot-based wines. The richly concentrated fruits, superb tannins structures and freshness are very impressive. Château La Fleur-Pétrus is also in brilliant form and promises to unfold spectacularly over the next decade. The rare and Lilliputian Château Lafleur has also produced a stellar vintage, albeit in minute quantities. Its second label, Les Pensées (de Lafleur) follows brilliantly in its wake. In addition, Château La Conseillante, which has received massive investment in recent years, has made a wine of remarkable intensity, precision and volume. Le Pin, a small patch of vineyard near Cattusseau, highlights the essence of its terroir and will no doubt attract attention from those who can afford it. I once had a friend who sold 12 bottles of the 1982 vintage to buy a car. While Le Pin epitomises the exalted and rarefied status of the region’s most prized wines, there are other wines that also resonate. Château l’Eglise- Clinet, Château l’Evangile, Château Latour à Pomerol, Château Certan de May, Château Hosanna, Château Trotanoy and Lafleur-Gazin will be extremely pleasurable to drink in the future. My pick for value, factoring in the inevitable price rises, is Château Gazin. The postage-stamp-sized Château Séraphine, best known among English merchants, has made a very good wine this year. The peacock’s-tail symbol – relating to the Krajewski family’s Polish Cavalry ancestry – is particularly apt this year because of the wine’s long tannin plume. Château Nénin and Château Clinet are also worth seeking out, as they have great cellaring potential. Bordeaux Blanc It has been noted many times by observers that hot dry weather does not promote the best of white wine quality. By early August many producers believed that the vintage would not bring anything exceptional. But it was reported by Professor Axel Marchel’s team at Bordeaux University’s Oenological Science Unit that ‘the June rainfall nevertheless helped to preserve a certain freshness and above all, unexpected aromatic potential, especially on clay and clay-limestone soils with high water reserves’.
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Generally, the whites were picked early and before the extra heat in late August and early September. This may explain why there are so many very good Bordeaux Blanc. Château Haut-Brion Blanc and Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc are exemplars of the modern styles, but value can be found elsewhere. Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Cos d’Estournel Blanc and Pavillon Blanc are standouts. But Bordeaux Blanc is a minor category in Australia, because better value can be had from elsewhere. But for dyed-in-the-wool fanatics, these wines offer classicism and refreshing minerality. Sauternes-Barsac Vignerons in the Sauternes-Barsac region were sorely put to the test during the 2022 growing season. Although the grapes had ripened evenly and well by August, drought conditions continued to prevail. The lack of humidity hindered the development of botrytis cinerea and caused great concern, but by the end of September, the rains finally arrived, and the spread of noble rot over the next few weeks ensured a very good year. Unfortunately, because of time constraints, I didn’t get down to the region to taste d’Yquem (no longer released en primeurs ) or Château Climens, but I understand that both are very good. I was particularly impressed by Château Coutet, Château Doisy Daëne, Château de Fargues, Château Suduiraut and Château La Tour Blanche. Château Guiraud is less heavy than in the past and, as a consequence, has more freshness and animation. Château Lafaurie Peyraguey is slightly on the heavier side, but I suspect that prices will be recalibrated this year for reasons that will become obvious (to those who follow relationships between some critics and producers).
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A brief note on scores! My list of tasting notes and scores reflects the results of a brilliant 2022 Bordeaux vintage. Most Châteaux produced very expressive, concentrated and beautifully balanced wines. For those who strictly follow scores and hang on to every word and comment, it is worth pointing out that we are tasting wines that have been drawn out of barrel soon after the end of malo-lactic fermentation and have yet to go through the magical stage of oak maturation, etc. The young wines are largely elemental and without great complexity. We can judge the year as being great because experience has shown that wines with definition, precise structures, volume and density are made of the right stuffing to develop evenly through the maturation phase and then in bottle. One can imagine their progress, and for the most part, these young wines do achieve their predicted potential. But as a consumer buyer, I would recommend that you choose your wines not only on critic’s scores but also on the reputation of the Château and the sub region. A score of above 87 is quite reasonable, even though not brilliant. But it would be a pity to simply rely on 95+ scores. In the end, scores just calibrate the wealth and comparative hierarchies of the vintage. I will be buying wines based on value as well. This forthcoming 2022 en-primeurs campaign will be one for the ages. Audere Credere
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Tasting Notes
Rouge
Médoc G d’Estournel
92–93 Deep colour. Pure blackcurrant, graphite aromas with hints of lead pencil cedar/chinotto. Beautifully concentrated blackcurrant, dark cherry, fine bittersweet tannins, very good mid palate density and juicy long acidity. 67% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3.6% Cabernet Franc, 0.4% Petit Verdot. 13.67% alc La Tour de By 91–92 Deep crimson colour. Pure dark cherry, blackcurrant aromas with some pippy notes. Dense and sweet fruited with plentiful dark chocolate, dark cherry, plum fruits and fine chocolaty tannins. Finishes minerally and juicy with bittersweet notes. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot. 25% new oak. Potensac 91–92 Deep crimson colour. Intense black cherry, cassis, dark plum aromas with chocolate notes. Richly concentrated, chocolaty, touch soupy textured wine with ample dark berry fruits, fine loose-knit chalky tannins. Chewy al dente finish with juicy elements. Dense and minerally wine. 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36.5% Merlot, 19.5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. 20% new oak, 13% press wine. 14.52% alc
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Haut-Médoc
La Lagune 94–95 Deep crimson colour. Classical claret with intense blackcurrant, black cherry, cedar, dark chocolate aromas, fine grainy tannins, lovely mid palate density and well integrated acidity. Very good volume, richness and torque. Very precise. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. Roughly 50% new oak. La Tour Carnet 94–95 Deep crimson colour. Intense blackcurrant praline vanilla nougat aromas. Supple and sweet fruited with ripe cassis, chocolaty notes, fine loose-knit grainy tannins and underlying espresso, roasted coffee notes. Firm chalky finish with seductive sweet fruits. Very modern and approachable. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc. 30+% new oak. Larrivaux 94–95 Deep crimson colour. Attractive dark plum, blackcurrant, touch espresso aromas with grilled nut notes. Richly concentrated and supple with ample dark plum, blackcurrant fruits, fine loose-knit chocolaty tannins. Surprising and impressive wine that punches well above its reputational weight. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. Coufran 93–94 Deep crimson colour. Lovely dark chocolate, dark plum, herb garden potpourri aromas and flavours, fine chocolaty textures, some underlying cedar marzipan notes. Really well balanced with plenty of potential. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon. 25% new oak. de Lamarque 93–94 Deep crimson colour. Lifted cassis, black cherry, chinotto aromas. Animated palate with ample dark berry fruits, some brambly notes, lovely inky density and vigorous firm tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot. 40% new oak. Reysson 93–94 Medium-deep crimson colour. Fresh plum, cassis, hint marzipan, nougat aromas. Fresh loose-knit minerally wine with lovely pure dark berry fruits, cassis, strawberry flavours and sinuous velvety firm tannins. Finishes slinky, minerally and long. The only Cru Bourgeois without Cabernet Sauvignon. Very attractive wine. 88% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc. 20% new oak.
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The Vintage Journal – International Series
Sociando Mallet 93–94 Deep crimson colour. Intense dark cherry, dark plum, blackcurrant aromas with touch of carob. Richly flavoured and chocolaty textured with pure dark cherry, cassis flavours and fine loose-knit supple tannins. Slinky firm and minerally. This should develop very well. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. Belgrave 92–93 Deep crimson colour. Intense aromatic mulberry, blackcurrant, hint black olive peppery aromas. Fresh sweet mulberry, red cherry, cassis fruits, fine dense loose-knit grainy/cedary tannins and well integrated savoury/ roasted chestnut oak notes. Finishes graphite firm and minerally. Should develop very well. 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. 29% new oak, with small percentage of amphorae. Cambon La Pelouse 92–93 Deep colour. Fresh cassis, blackberry, petrichor aromas with sesame, roasted chestnut notes. Supple and sweet fruited with blackberry jam, touch cedar flavours, fine loose-knit grained tannins, attractive mid palate volume and well integrated mineral acidity. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot. Senejac 91–92 Deep crimson colour. Crushed blackberry, cassis aromas with herb garden espresso notes. Elemental, blackberry, cassis, cacao flavours, fine touch leafy tannins and underlying roasted coffee notes. Finishes bittersweet with fresh long acidity. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. Clément-Pichon 90–91 Deep crimson colour. Intense dark chocolate, dark cherry, blackcurrant aromas with nougat, vanilla notes. Fresh inky deep wine with lovely ripe dark berry, blackcurrant pastille flavours, fine gravelly/al dente tannins, and well balanced vanilla notes. Finishes chalky firm and minerally. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. Madame de Beaucaillou 90–91 Deep colour. Intense liquorice, elderberry, blackcurrant fruits with roasted chestnut notes. Well concentrated elderberry, blackcurrant fruits, grainy al dente textures, very good mid palate richness and density. Cutting acidity and a touch soupy. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. 15% alc
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Beaumont 89–90 Deep colour. Intense blackcurrant pastille, dark chocolate aromas with leafy/brambly notes. Chocolaty firm and concentrated with ample dark berry dark chocolate fruits, bittersweet, touch pippy tannins and well integrated touch saline acidity. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot. 30% new oak. Lanessan 89–90 Deep crimson colour. Fresh elderberry, blackcurrant, black cherry aromas with brambly notes. Inky deep and vigorous with plentiful elderberry blackcurrant fruits, brambly/sinewy textures and marked juicy acidity. Finishes chalky firm and long. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc. Cantemerle 88–89 Medium-deep crimson colour. Fresh cassis, plum, mulberry strawberry aromas with hint vanilla/nougat. Sweet supple, touch confectionery- like with strawberry pastille, mulberry fruits, fine loose-knit chalky/ cedar textures and sweet fruited finish. Gentle vigour. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot with small parcels of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 35% new oak. Citran 88–89 Deep colour. Intense salted liquorice, black cherry pastille, hint vanilla aromas. Well concentrated black cherry, cedar wood flavours, fine chalky firm tannins, very good mid palate volume and fresh integrated acidity. Will need to time to build fruit complexity on the mid palate. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. 30% new oak. de Camensac 88–89 Medium-deep crimson colour. Fresh black cherry, brambly, violet, hint wood varnish aromas. Concentrated black cherry, blackcurrant, touch spicy flavours, chalky bitter firm tannins and some attractive savoury oak notes. Firm abrupt finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. 40% new oak.
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The Vintage Journal – International Series
Listrac-Médoc
Clarke 94–95 Deep crimson colour. Lovely fresh elemental blackcurrant, elderberry, inky aromas and flavours, classical fine-grained tannins, well balanced savoury oak and long minerally acidity. Lovely density, fruit complexity and vigour. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon. 70% new oak. Fourcas Hosten 94–95 Deep crimson colour. Lovely cassis, dark cherry, touch brambly aromas with cedar vanilla notes. Velvety textured wine with pure dark berry fruits, a touch of leafy complexity, fine grainy firm tannins, superb savoury oak complexity and linear fresh acidity. Very well balanced wine with lovely potential. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot. 30%+ new oak. Fourcas Dupré 92–93 Deep crimson colour. Blackcurrant, blackberry, chinotto, cola aromas. Well concentrated wine with plentiful juicy dark berry fruits, fine chocolaty textures, some bittersweet notes and underlying cedar complexity. Very good density, volume and torque. (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot. 30% new oak.) Fonréaud 88–89 Deep crimson colour. Cedar mocha dark berry aromas with hints of aniseed. Oak dominant palate with strong cedar mocha sesame flavours, some juicy blackcurrant, black cherry fruits and firm gritty tannins. This will eventually settle down. (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot. 30%+ new oak.)
Bordeaux 2022
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Moulis-en-Médoc Chasse Spleen
92–93 Deep crimson colour. Wax varnish, marzipan, dark chocolate, blackcurrant graphite aromas. Inky graphite blackcurrant flavours, fine chalky dry tannins, very good volume and well balanced savoury oak notes. Finishes peppery and long with a fine grippy tannin plume. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot with small parcels of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. 40% new oak. Poujeaux 91–92 Deep crimson colour. Elemental cassis, cedar aromas. Fresh and concentrated with deep-set blackcurrant, cedar flavours and brambly textures. Builds up very firm and tight at the finish. Vigorous and a touch soupy but should settle down and develop. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. About 30% new oak. Maucaillou 87–88 Deep crimson colour. Ripe black cherry, roasted walnut, vanilla aromas. Inky deep with attractive ripe black cherry, mulberry fruits, fine cedary textures and slightly dominant roasted walnut notes. Brambly/sinewy at the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot. 40–60% new oak.
St Estephe La Boscq
94–95 Deep crimson colour. Ripe cassis, plum, panforte, cedar aromas. Concentrated and velvety wine with abundant dark cherry, cassis, dark plum, strawberry fruits, plentiful chocolaty firm tannins, marvellous concentration and fresh long graphite tannins. Builds up chewy and long. Impressive St Estèphe wine. Low yield vintage because of June hailstorm. 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc. 37% new oak, with small percentage in amphorae.
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The Vintage Journal – International Series
Pauillac Lafite-Rothschild
98–99+ Deep colour. Intense dark cherry, blackcurrant mocha espresso aromas. Inky deep dark cherry, cassis flavours, supple graphite/touch al dente textures and underlying savoury oak notes. Finishes chocolaty and long. Fresh and complex with lovely gentle vigour and smoothness. Well balanced wine. 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. 17% press wine. Mouton Rothschild 98–99 Deep colour. Intense blackcurrant, blackberry roasted chestnut hint cedar aromas. Generous, supple wine with lovely ripe cassis/blackcurrant fruits, long cedar/grainy tannins, lovely mid palate volume and well integrated fresh acidity. Finishes firm and tight. Brilliant wine with superb potential. 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot. 100% new oak. 14% alc Latour 98–100 Deep crimson colour. Intense blackcurrant, marzipan mocha aromas. Generous voluminous and expansive, with ample blackcurrant black cherry fruits, superb density and torque. Impressive wine with lovely bittersweet finish. 92.45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7.4% Merlot, 0.15% Petit Verdot. 14.19% alc Pichon Baron (de Longueville) 96–97 Deep crimson colour. Classic pure blackcurrant, dark cherry aromas with vanilla, hint aniseed notes. Beautifully balanced and richly flavoured wine with cassis, dark cherry fruits, some dark chocolate notes, superb fine grainy/hint cedar tannins and well balanced juicy freshness. Finishes al dente/bittersweet. A brilliant vintage for this estate. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. 60–70% new oak. Batailley 95–96+ Deep crimson colour. Expressive blackcurrant, black cherry, cedar aromas with espresso notes. Inky deep and vigorous with plentiful cassis, black cherry, hint cigar leaf flavours, fine grainy firm/sturdy tannins and well integrated mineral acidity. Very good mid palate richness, definition and torque. Very stylish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. 50–60% new oak. Grand Puy Lacoste 95–96+ Deep colour. Classic pure blackcurrant, cedar aromas with roasted chestnut notes. Generous and inky deep with fresh blackcurrant, cassis flavours, fine grained/velvety tannins and roasted chestnut notes. Finishes firm and long. Very good vintage. 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot. 75% new oak. 14% alc
Bordeaux 2022
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Pontet Canet 95–96+ Deep colour. Intense elderberry, cassis, vanilla aromas with a touch of violet. Richly concentrated and complex with deep-set dark berry pastille fruits, underlying grilled nut notes, a touch cheesy/creamy on the mid palate and well balanced grainy/chocolaty dense tannins. Extraordinary viscosity and power, with tannins building up soupy at the finish. But this could be something transcendent. 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot. 50% new oak, 15% first use, 35% concrete amphorae. Clerc Milon 95–96 Deep crimson colour. Intense blackcurrant, mocha roasted chestnut aromas. Lovely concentrated wine with ample cassis, espresso, roasted chestnut flavours, long velveteen tannins, superb mid palate richness and well balanced quartz acidity. Finishes firm, juicy and minerally. 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 1% Carménère . 55% new oak. 14.5% alc d’Armailhac 95–96 Deep crimson colour. Intense dark cherry, blackcurrant, mocha aromas with hints of marzipan, vanilla notes. Classical fine grained palate with pure cassis, cedar flavours, some vanilla marzipan mocha notes, lovely density and mineral torque. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. 50% new oak. 14.5% alc Duhart Milon 95–96 Medium-deep crimson colour. Glossy blackcurrant marzipan mocha wax polish geosmin aromas. Beautifully structured with ample black cherry, cassis, touch smoky panforte flavours. Finishes cedary firm with pronounced acidity. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot. Les Forts de Latour 95–96 Deep crimson colour. Intense, blackcurrant, black cherry, black olive, geosmin aromas. Concentrated pure blackcurrant, black cherry fruits, plentiful fine grainy/chocolaty tannins and well balanced cedar mocha notes with bittersweet notes at finish. 14.47% alc Lynch Bages 95–96 Deep crimson colour. Inky blackcurrant dark plum aromas with wax polish, hint shellac notes. Deep-set blackcurrant, blackberry, plum flavours, lovely bittersweet tannins, attractive savoury oak notes and long juicy acidity. All in parts but should develop very well. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot. 75% new oak.
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The Vintage Journal – International Series
Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 95–96 Deep crimson colour. Intense black cherry, blackcurrant, chinotto aromas with hints of spice. Beautifully concentrated black cherry pastille, cassis fruits, a touch of chinotto/Amaro and well balanced marzipan notes. Finishes cedar firm and long. Very good richness, concentration and mineral length. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon 17% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Around 60% new oak. Carruades de Lafite 94–95+ Medium-deep colour. Intense redcurrant cassis vanilla aromas. Supple sinuous wine with redcurrant cassis fruits, underlying mocha notes, some fresh al dente tannins. Finishes firm and tight. 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. 14.5% alc Haut-Batailley 94–95 Deep crimson colour. Vigorous and expressive, but elemental wine with ample elderberry, cassis, dark chocolate aromas, persistent fine bittersweet tannins and some savoury notes. Very good density and linear freshness. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc. 30+% new oak. Lacoste Borie 94–95 Medium-deep colour. Intense blackcurrant, mulberry aromas with hints of dark chocolate. Supple pure cassis, blackberry jam, brambly textures, savoury nuances with lovely mineral length and roasted chestnut notes. Impressive. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc. Petit Mouton 94–95 Medium-deep colour. Cedar, roasted walnut, dark berry aromas with hints of herbs. Well concentrated oak dominant wine with ample dark cherry/mocha cedar flavours, fine grainy/gravelly tannins and integrated acidity. Impressively concentrated wine and looking very good. 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. 60% new oak. 14.2% alc Lynch Moussas 93–94+ Deep crimson colour. Refreshing minerally wine with attractive blackcurrant, mulberry hint mocha aromas. Grainy and bittersweet on the palate with ample dark berry fruits and fresh brambly/leafy tannins. Cedary at the finish. Very good inky density and mineral length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. 55% new oak.
Bordeaux 2022
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Grand Puy Ducasse 93–94 Deep crimson colour. Elderberry, black cherry, cassis aromas and flavours with praline notes, grainy firm/al dente tannins and well balanced marzipan/roasted almond notes. Finishes bittersweet. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, 35% new oak. Pauillac (de Chateau Latour) 93–94 Medium-deep crimson colour. Black cherry liquorice aniseed with inky graphite notes. Well concentrated and vibrant with pure black cherry, cassis flavours, fine grainy tannins and bright crunchy acidity. Very good density and vinosity. 48.8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46.2% Merlot, 5% Petit 92–93 Medium-deep colour. Pure cassis espresso aromas with touch of orange peel. Supple sweet fruited cassis orange peel, hint vanilla notes, fine loose-knit grainy tannins. Touch of graphite before finishing minerally and long. 87% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. Croizet Bages 91–92 Medium-deep crimson colour. Dark berry vanilla wax polish aromas with chinotto notes. Concentrated juicy blackcurrant, dark cherry fruits, grainy textures and touch dominant vanilla/marzipan notes. Firm and sweet at the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot with small parcels of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 50%+ new oak. Pastourelle de Clerc Milon 91–92 Deep crimson colour. Intense blackcurrant cedar, chinotto aniseed aromas. Sweet juicy wine with classical cassis, cedar flavours, fine grippy textures. Lovely mid palate volume and very attractive mineral graphite finish. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Carménère, 1% Petit Verdot. 14.5% alc Verdot. 14.19% alc Moulin de Duhart
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The Vintage Journal – International Series
Saint-Julien
Ducru Beaucaillou 97–98 Deep crimson colour. Liquorice, dark cherry, blackcurrant, mocha, hint saline meaty aromas with vanilla notes. Richly concentrated dense dark chocolate, dark cherry liquorice flavours, fine bittersweet tannins, grainy cedar oak plus graphite firm finish. Very polished and precise wine with sweet and savoury notes. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. 100% new oak. Léoville Las Cases 97–98 Medium-deep crimson colour. Violet, cassis, blackcurrant touch strawberry aromas. Richly concentrated cassis, blackcurrant flavours and fine dense chalky/gravelly tannins. Some bittersweet notes and fresh mineral acidity. Lovely richness, density and energy. A classical vintage. 83.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10.5% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot. 84% new oak, 8% press wine. 14.25% alc Beychevelle 95–96 Deep crimson colour. Intense inky blackcurrant cedar aromas and flavours, sweet almost velvety textures, superb mid palate volume and well integrated oak complexity. Minerally and long at the finish. A classic vintage for Beychevelle. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc. 60% new oak. Clos de Marquis 95–96 Deep crimson colour. Intense violet, cassis, dark chocolate aromas with cedar notes. Generously concentrated and silky textured wine with pure cassis blackberry inky flavours and beautifully ripe tannins with a touch of savoury complexity and fresh linear acidity. This should evolve very well. 45.5% Merlot, 44.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. 53% new oak, 7% press wine. 14.25% alc La Croix Ducru Beaucaillou 95–96 Deep crimson colour. Intense dark cherry, dark chocolate. Salted liquorice aromas with mocha, marzipan notes. Richly concentrated dark cherry panforte flavours, vigorous chocolatey/velveteen tannins, some cedar notes, superb mid palate density, bittersweet firm finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot. 60% new oak. Lagrange 95–96 Deep crimson colour. Youthful and exuberant wine with plentiful elderberry, dark cherry, hint marzipan aromas and flavours, supple ripe chocolaty tannins and well integrated saline/mineral notes. Very expressive wine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot. 50–60% new oak.
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