Scale There are now 200 wine producers crushing Margaret River fruit and 75 wineries in operation. Although the average crush is 158 tonnes, over 60% of producers crush less than 50 tonnes. Some are extremely small family- owned businesses, producing less than 1,000 cases per year. Interestingly, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot only make up around 41% of plantings, (17.3%, 19.5%, and 4%, respectively), yet dominate the fine wines scene. Shiraz (14.5%) tantalisingly shows promise with a few very successful wines, but the styles are still variable. Semillon (16.5%) and sauvignon blanc (18.2%) are often blended. Mike Peterkin at Cullen, and then Pierro, probably made the region’s first classic dry white style. This Vintage Journal review, however, focuses primarily on chardonnay, cabernet, and shiraz. Chardonnay The stature of the Gingin clone is fully on display in this tasting review. While Leeuwin Estate, Cullen, and Vasse Felix and such have a commanding position within the ultra-fine wine scene, there are other producers also making high-quality, precise Chardonnays with compelling regional identity. Cloudburst, Deep Woods, Howard Park, Juniper, McHenry, Hohnen, Voyager Estate, and Xanadu are making exquisite examples. Larry Cherubino’s portfolio of Chardonnays is bewildering, but there is an impressive and highly appealing consistency of character. There are other marques also worth following, notably Bruce Duke’s Domaine Naturaliste, Driftwood, Evans and Tate, Fraser Gallop, Flowstone, Joseph River, Hutton, La Kooki, Peccavi, and Robert Oatley. There are, of course, other producers who preferred not to submit their wines, and so there are gaps in these tasting notes. Pierro and Woodlands are the most obvious and, while not reviewed, are well respected in the collectible market. Nonetheless, the fidelity of fruit definition and regional character across this group of wines is extremely compelling. Although styles and attitudes differ, there is a common thread of authenticity and voice of place that weaves through Margaret River Chardonnay. The consistency, diversity, and creativity that bring these qualities into focus are hallmarks of a classic modern wine region.
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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