SA Wine Guide 2025

Eisenstone McDonald Marananga SV904 Shiraz 2022

Gibson Burkes Hill Riesling 2024

G 95

G 95

The grapes here hail from a vineyard on the famed Roennfeldt Road, a mix of old Crouchen vines grafted to Shiraz in 1974 and also plantings of the Penfolds SC clone of Shiraz in 1998. The wine spent a year-and-a-half maturing in French oak, half of it new. Just 800 bottles made. The colour here seems jet black with very dark purple rims. This is still very young, but it is certainly a most intense Shiraz. We have notes of blackberries, chocolate, delicatessen meats, soy, cloves, miso and the clever use of oak. A muscular style with juicy acidity, sleek tannins, the balance that seems typical of the entire range and a very long finish. This will provide pleasure for at least 15 years. Drink now–2039 Elderton Eden Valley Riesling Riesling 2024 G 95 Lovely, delicate white orchard florals with superb citrus/ lemon flavours and decisive palate cut. Great balance and delivery with aromatics, flavours, acidity all linking hands in a finely crafted wine of the highest standard. Drink now–2035 Gatt Wines Riesling 2024 G 95 A fragrant mix to begin – orchard florals, musk and lavender – with all of it flowing attractively into the palate where varietal acidity sitting right in there to underpin and lift pure lemony thrills. Good balance and energy levels with controlled drive and finish. Drink now–2035 Gibson The Dirtman Shiraz 2022 G 95 This is one of those wonderfully reliable wines which never puts a foot wrong, year after year. One of those wines I’d feel comfortable buying sight unseen. And it always represents terrific buying. Named in tribute to maker Rob Gibson, it is a blend of fruit from both the Barossa and the Eden Valley. Near black/purple, this is a classic and cracking Shiraz, redolent of plums, liquorice, chocolate, florals, cassis, mocha and beef stock – all the good things one hopes for in a wine like this. Generous and approachable, this is well structured, with finely integrated oak, offering a slippery texture, with a lingering finish maintaining its intensity throughout. The palate sees cocoa powder, ripe plums and coffee beans. Silky tannins tie the package together. There is a rather wicked decadence here. A superb wine which will drink beautifully for at least a decade. From a stellar vintage like this, one expects something special. One is not disappointed. Drink now–2034

If the idea of a cracking Riesling from the Eden Valley, from a top vintage, doesn’t grab you, perhaps if I told you that local Riesling legend Andrew Wigan, had come on board to assist in making the wine, would that pique the interest? No wonder it is so seriously good. A gleaming pale green/gold hue, right from the very first sniff we have such an alluring nose, with limes, citrus, jasmine and peach skin notes. This is a bit special. Immaculately balanced with juicy acidity, this is clean, elegant and fresh with great length and intensity maintained for the full journey. A superb Riesling offering 10 to 12 years of pleasure at least. Drink now–2036 Grant Burge Meshach Shiraz 2021 G 95 Deep crimson. Intense dark berry, praline, mocha, marzipan aromas with panforte notes. Richly flavoured with dense dark berry, praline, espresso flavours, abundant chocolaty tannins and fresh long acidity. A tannin plume and some bittersweet/ liquorice notes at the finish. HATCH Wines Eden Valley Flaxman Riesling Riesling 2024 G 95 Smells of purity the moment you approach. Superb floral/citrus nose with some crushed granite-like dust as well – a definition of minerality? A fine, elegant palate expressing varietal flavours, aromatics and acidity with equality and composure. All up an elite wine of the highest grade. Drink now–2034 Head Wines Wilton Hill Shiraz 2022 G 95 Deep colour. Very expressive blackberry pastille, boysenberry aromas with some ginger/roasted chestnut, hint cedar notes. Generous and deeply set with ample dark berry fruits, a touch of smoked meats, dense chocolaty tannins and plentiful new oak notes. Finishes cedar firm and long. Still quite elemental but clearly from a superb vintage. Drink 2026–2040 14.5% alc Heirloom A’lambra Shiraz 2023 G 95 The team use their absolute best Barossa Shiraz for this flagship star. The harvest is sorted bunch by bunch, wild fermented, and then matures in French oak barriques. This complex Shiraz impresses from start to finish. An inky dark purple hue, the wine is exuberant and gorgeous. We have notes of blackcurrants, plums, grape juice (yes, obvious, but here it is), liquorice, cloves and leather. There is some cassis and cocoa powder before we get to the finish and its sour cherry hints. The wine is superbly structured, with silky tannins, bright acidity and extensive length. Will offer superb drinking over the next four to six years, but then surely plateau for another decade or more. Lots to love here. Drink now–2030

84

The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus

South Australia 2024

85

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