Eisenstone McDonald Marananga SV904 Shiraz 2022
G 95
The grapes here hail from a vineyard on the famed Roennfeldt Road, a mix of old Crouchen vines grafted to Shiraz in 1974 and also plantings of the Penfolds SC clone of Shiraz in 1998. The wine spent a year-and-a-half maturing in French oak, half of it new. Just 800 bottles made. The colour here seems jet black with very dark purple rims. This is still very young, but it is certainly a most intense Shiraz. We have notes of blackberries, chocolate, delicatessen meats, soy, cloves, miso and the clever use of oak. A muscular style with juicy acidity, sleek tannins, the balance that seems typical of the entire range and a very long finish. This will provide pleasure for at least 15 years. Drink now–2039 Elderton Eden Valley Riesling Riesling 2024 G 95 Lovely, delicate white orchard florals with superb citrus/ lemon flavours and decisive palate cut. Great balance and delivery with aromatics, flavours, acidity all linking hands in a finely crafted wine of the highest standard. Drink now–2035 Gatt Wines Riesling 2024 G 95 A fragrant mix to begin – orchard florals, musk and lavender – with all of it flowing attractively into the palate where varietal acidity sitting right in there to underpin and lift pure lemony thrills. Good balance and energy levels with controlled drive and finish. Drink now–2035 Gibson The Dirtman Shiraz 2022 G 95 This is one of those wonderfully reliable wines which never puts a foot wrong, year after year. One of those wines I’d feel comfortable buying sight unseen. And it always represents terrific buying. Named in tribute to maker Rob Gibson, it is a blend of fruit from both the Barossa and the Eden Valley. Near black/purple, this is a classic and cracking Shiraz, redolent of plums, liquorice, chocolate, florals, cassis, mocha and beef stock – all the good things one hopes for in a wine like this. Generous and approachable, this is well structured, with finely integrated oak, offering a slippery texture, with a lingering finish maintaining its intensity throughout. The palate sees cocoa powder, ripe plums and coffee beans. Silky tannins tie the package together. There is a rather wicked decadence here. A superb wine which will drink beautifully for at least a decade. From a stellar vintage like this, one expects something special. One is not disappointed. Drink now–2034
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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