Camino Marananga Paradigm Vineyard Shiraz 2021
Head Wines Wilton Hill Shiraz 2021
G 97
G 97
The vineyard was planted in 1965 at an elevation of 480 metres above sea level in the Barossa Ranges. Alex was keen to highlight a unique site, and he could hardly have chosen a better one. 30% whole bunches are used here; the wine spent 17 months in oak, and 25% new Troncais. This wine represents less than half of one per cent of Alex’s production, but what a cracking wine. Simply, so much here is deeply impressive. Deep maroon in colour, the nose exhibits notes of smoked meats, blackcurrants, soy, beef stock, dark berries, dry herbs, leather and bacon fat. A savoury style with serious complexity. The palate sees the flavours move more to the coffee bean, chocolate end of the spectrum. Supple, finely balanced and with great length and intensity, this is a star. A touch of almond bitterness ties up the finish. A 15- to 20-year proposition, there is so much going on here that it is impossible not to love it. Drink now–2034 Henschke Julius Riesling 2024 G 97 Pale colour. Intense lime pastille, camomile aromas with herb garden, hint flinty notes. Beautifully concentrated and pure fruited Riesling, with ample lime, lemon glacé fruits, fine bittersweet textures, a hint of tonic water and long fresh quartz- like acidity. Wonderful volume and mineral length; the fruit density offsetting the lowish alcohol beautifully. This has all the hallmarks of a classic bottling. Delicious to drink now, but bottle age complexity beckons. Drink now–2045+ Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2013 G 97 Medium deep crimson. Scented blackberry pastille, herb garden sage aromas with dark chocolate, touch tobacco leaf notes. Smooth and concentrated wine with attractive pure blackberry, mulberry, chinotto flavours, fine loose-knit chalky/ al dente textures and underlying mocha notes. Builds up powdery/ graphite firm with hints of tobacco leaf. Delicious bottle-aged wine with lovely symmetry and backbone. Henschke-embossed bottle. Vino-lok seal. 14.5% alc Drink now–2032+ Henschke Julius Riesling, Eden Valley 2024 G 97 Pale colour. Intense lime pastille, camomile aromas with herb garden, hint flinty notes. Beautifully concentrated and pure fruited riesling, with ample lime, lemon glacé fruits, fine bittersweet textures, a hint of tonic water and long fresh quartz- like acidity. Wonderful volume and mineral length; the fruit density offsetting the lowish alcohol beautifully. This has all the hallmarks of a classic bottling. Delicious to drink now, but bottle age complexity beckons. 11% alc Drink now–or keep for as long as you like (2045+)
Winemaker Jason Barrette spent a couple of decades working with Penfolds and around the globe and has now released his own very impressive array of wines. If things continue in the manner as they have begun, expect these wines to become cult favourites. This is the flagship, hailing from a single vineyard, the Paradigm Vineyard, located in the Marananga sub-region, which is, for many, the jewel of the Barossa. The vines are 80–100 years old. It spent 19 months in American oak hogsheads. Under cork, this is a hedonistic joy. The colour is an opaque maroon. Such an alluring and gorgeous aroma here, with spices, mocha, vanilla, chocolate, black fruits, coffee grinds and some oak still evident but integrating well. A ripe style, this is compelling and utterly delicious, as one might expect from a top release from such a stellar vintage. Fine balance, extraordinary length and the silkiest of tannins, this is a 10- to 20-year proposition. These wines are really worth checking out, most especially this one. Drink now–2044 Château Tanunda The Everest Shiraz 2021 G 97 Deep crimson. Intense blackberry dark chocolate aromas with roasted chestnut notes. Richly concentrated blackberry pastille, praline, roasted chestnut marzipan, demi-glace flavours, fine loose-knit chocolaty textures and well-balanced acidity. Beautifully crafted wine with lovely density, richness and vigour. Drink now–2038 14.9% alc Cirillo 1850 Grenache 2018 G 97 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh red plum, strawberry with chinotto, touch negroni notes. Attractive sweet red plum strawberry negroni flavours, lovely mid-palate volume, fine slinky textures and fresh long acidity. Delicious wine. Lovely richness and extract. A reference style for the Barossa. 1848 Grenache vines. 13.9% alc Drink 2030–2042 Curator Seppeltsfield Shiraz 2022 G 97 For me, this is the absolute star of the range, among some serious competition. From a vineyard at Seppeltsfield, which was planted back in the 1950s, the wine saw 18% of whole bunches (the remainder whole berries) in the ferment – a natural fermentation – before it was pressed to French oak, 15% new, for maturation over the next year and a half. Only 2100 bottles sealed under diam. A near-opaque maroon hue here, the aromas swirl around, giving us characters reminiscent of plush new leather, chocolate, tar, mocha, ripe plums, graphite, liquorice, bay leaves and blueberries. A creamy texture leading to fine, supple tannins, this is a wine of great length which never waivers in intensity. A 20-year proposition. Just gorgeous. Drink now–2044
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
71
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