SA Wine Guide 2025

Murdoch Hill The Tilbury Chardonnay 2023

G 94

Lemon straw in hue. Grapefruit, lemongrass, sumac, tonic water and a kiss of flint. Charming fruit weight, the palate oscillates from bright acidity to a suppleness. Citrus, green olive and tonic water flavours, brushed by phenolics. The wine’s lacy texture is married with a line of indelible acidity. A star in the making. Drink now– 2032 Murdoch Hill Apollo Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023 G 94 From Murdoch Hill’s Lenswood vineyard, a more minerally infused expression, some powdery, talc-like fragrance, with cherry fruits in slow release and a peppery spice as well. A definite textural statement more than fruit driven, though that may even out with a few years maturing. 12.5% alc Drink now–2034 Penny’s Hill The Agreement Sauvignon Blanc 2024 G 94 Super pale and incredibly aromatic, bursting with all the Sauvignon things – cut grass, just-split passionfruit, tomato leaf, then easing back on the pedal in the palate with a quieter rendition of all of those elements, expertly tempered acidity and pithiness to allow its pure tropical fruit salad flavours to carry the day. Very smart style. 13% alc Drink now–2028 Pike & Joyce Vue de Nord Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023 G 94 From the Lenswood estate. Lovely aromatics of cherry, woodlands, Asian spices, all slipping easily into a light-hearted and spicy/peppery palate, a bit of fruit tang in there as well, fitting in neatly with a light grippy finish. Fresh and flavourful. 13.5% alc Drink now–2028 Pike & Joyce W.J.J. Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2022 G 94 From the P&J estate vineyard in Lenswood, crafted in a Reserve style with a decent amount of structure built in. Darker cherry notes, a faint suggestion of blood orange, light oak charring, medium bodied with present tannins and even acidity. A more complex expression of Hills Pinot. 13.5% alc Drink now–2032 Riposte The Scimitar Riesling 2024 G 94 Riposte Wines proprietor/winemaker Tim Knappstein knows a thing or two about Clare Valley Riesling, sourcing this from a prized vineyard east of the Watervale village in one of the region’s most renowned districts. To begin, the wine is all about the exotic nature of ripe lime fruit, blossom and flesh, with faint but effusive heady scents of lily playing along with their pretty aromatic depth. That lime thing just gets deeper and deeper into the core of the palate, accompanied by delicate acidity with an almost spicy edge. It’s delicious and very approachable, with fairy dust chalkiness in the finish. Riesling which delivers flavour above and beyond its natural varietal zing. (An extra note: The label now carries a side-line: Tim Knappstein and Son, pointing to a promising future for the brand.) Drink now–2030

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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus

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