Thistledown Wines Cunning Plan Shiraz 2023
G 93
A meeting point of black, red and blue fruits. Boysenberry, red cherry and blackcurrant. Sage and thistle with hints of lilac blossoms. Oak hints at cassia bark and clove, but sits well behind the fruit. Its vibrating acidity maintains flavour right through to the finish. Some meaty spice of sumac and paprika too. Very good value and would suit many a dining table and cuisine. An all rounder if ever I tasted
one. Drink now–2026 Ulithorne Singularis Shiraz 2019
G 93
The fruit for this bottling comes from a 65-plus-year-old vineyard. Matured for 18 months in French oak. Hibiscus, red plum and Christmas cherries. Espresso coffee, dried cranberries and bitter hazelnut skin. Acidity lifts and carries the wine with supple tannins and a juicy, fleshy mid palate weight. Still taut and terrific under its diam cork. Drink now–2028 Varney Wines GSM Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre 2022 G 93 60% Grenache, 25% Shiraz, and 15% Mourvèdre. Around 30% whole bunch with some carbonic maceration. Matured in hogsheads for nine months. A cauldron of bubbling blackberry compote, açaí berry and juniper spice. Clove studs, cardamom and bitter chocolate. Scintillating acidity with powdery tannins and a velvety mid palate. Carob, cocoa pod and coffee grinds lengthen the palate further. This is well rounded and detailed; oak supports the black and blue fruited tones nicely. It’s a bit of a steal at the price. Drink now–2029 Varney Wines Shiraz Shiraz 2023 G 93 A mix of Clarendon and Blewitt Springs. Matured in French barriques for nine months. 30% whole berries. This is alive with intoxicating perfume. Roasted coffee beans, black cherry and fig hearts. Sandalwood, cumin and rye bread. Brooding and dark, there is intrigue here. The palate maintains its ripe black fruit with plenty of savoury woodsy elements; it delivers what the aromas promise with good length and line. A smart wine that will continue to develop in the cellar over the next five years. Drink now–2030 Wirra Wirra Farmer’s Heart Grenache 2023 G 93 Bilberry, juniper spice and soft liquorice. Ripe fat mulberries and purple taro root. A waft of potpourri and rose. Acidity is sappy and succulent with slippery tannins that elongate the buoyancy of the wine. There is a sprightliness to the wine that is endearing, and some lilac and dried cranberries on the finish. Excellent value. Drink now–2026
South Australia 2024
273
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