Paxton AAA Grenache Shiraz 2022
Thistledown Wines Cunning Plan Shiraz 2023
G 93
G 93
Shiraz 51%, Grenache 41%, Mataro 8%. A medley of red berries underpinned by richly layered coffee and baking spices. There are earthy tones too, of leaf mulch and wet clay. The attractive nature of both varieties visible here. The palate is juicy and lush without relying on the sweet tones of oak or over-ripeness. Instead, it’s plump berries swimming in a pool of brisk acidity with a spice jar finish. Excellent value wine, which demonstrates the harmony in these blends. Drink now–2026 Richard Hamilton Burtons Vineyard Old Vine Grenache 2022 G 93 Red raspberry, persimmon and ripe figs. A heady mix of baking spices, nutmeg, clove and dusty cinnamon. Fig leaf, rosemary twig, and maple candy. It’s a cacophony of red fruits, autumn leaves and dried spice with oak playing a backseat to the primary fruit notes. Acidity is persistent and tannins are fine and silty. Succulence is at the heart of the Old Vine Grenache. Drink now–2028 S.C. Pannell Aglianico Aglianico 2021 G 93 Hauntingly aromatic, the wine opens with pitted cherries, beetroot juice and bramble. Hawthorn, mulberry and sage leaf. It leads with tannins and then acid as the southern native variety should; it loops around with chinchona bark and brown spices, nutmeg and cumin. Astute and curt, this will continue to age well. One of the top examples of this variety in this country. Drink now–2034 Silent Noise Cloudy but Fine Primitivo under flor 2023 G 93 A burst of purple hyacinth, grape soda and cassis dreams. Aleppo peppers, clove and chipotle. The inky colour alone is something to write home about, but this wine is more than just a wacky weekend idea. It captures the polarising intensity of Primitivo and places it in a space where under a veil of flor, the bitter notes of Brazil nut and crushed cocoa nibs add dimension and complexity. Tannins unfurl and the bitterness feels pleasing, like all good digestifs do. It’s an adventure in realms of the unknown, and I, for one, am totally into it. Bravo for doing life differently! Drink now–2029 The Old Faithful Pino’s Block Shiraz 2021 G 93 Fruit is sourced from Pino’s Block in McLaren Flat and matured for 24 months in oak puncheons. A peppery number with sansho, black peppercorns and juniper spice alongside runs of black cherries and a ribbon of red liquorice straps. There is a saltbush salinity with balsamic glaze, chinchona bark and cedar. Dried plums and a round rich palate. It’s distinctive in its pepper spice and plumpness of black fruit. Lasting impressions are made. Drink now–2028
A meeting point of black, red and blue fruits. Boysenberry, red cherry and blackcurrant. Sage and thistle with hints of lilac blossoms. Oak hints at cassia bark and clove, but sits well behind the fruit. Its vibrating acidity maintains flavour right through to the finish. Some meaty spice of sumac and paprika too. Very good value and would suit many a dining table and cuisine. An all rounder if ever I tasted
one. Drink now–2026 Ulithorne Singularis Shiraz 2019
G 93
The fruit for this bottling comes from a 65-plus-year-old vineyard. Matured for 18 months in French oak. Hibiscus, red plum and Christmas cherries. Espresso coffee, dried cranberries and bitter hazelnut skin. Acidity lifts and carries the wine with supple tannins and a juicy, fleshy mid palate weight. Still taut and terrific under its diam cork. Drink now–2028 Varney Wines GSM Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre 2022 G 93 60% Grenache, 25% Shiraz, and 15% Mourvèdre. Around 30% whole bunch with some carbonic maceration. Matured in hogsheads for nine months. A cauldron of bubbling blackberry compote, açaí berry and juniper spice. Clove studs, cardamom and bitter chocolate. Scintillating acidity with powdery tannins and a velvety mid palate. Carob, cocoa pod and coffee grinds lengthen the palate further. This is well rounded and detailed; oak supports the black and blue fruited tones nicely. It’s a bit of a steal at the price. Drink now–2029 Varney Wines Shiraz Shiraz 2023 G 93 A mix of Clarendon and Blewitt Springs. Matured in French barriques for nine months. 30% whole berries. This is alive with intoxicating perfume. Roasted coffee beans, black cherry and fig hearts. Sandalwood, cumin and rye bread. Brooding and dark, there is intrigue here. The palate maintains its ripe black fruit with plenty of savoury woodsy elements; it delivers what the aromas promise with good length and line. A smart wine that will continue to develop in the cellar over the next five years. Drink now–2030 Wirra Wirra Farmer’s Heart Grenache 2023 G 93 Bilberry, juniper spice and soft liquorice. Ripe fat mulberries and purple taro root. A waft of potpourri and rose. Acidity is sappy and succulent with slippery tannins that elongate the buoyancy of the wine. There is a sprightliness to the wine that is endearing, and some lilac and dried cranberries on the finish. Excellent value. Drink now–2026
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
273
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