Paxton AAA Grenache Shiraz 2022
G 93
Shiraz 51%, Grenache 41%, Mataro 8%. A medley of red berries underpinned by richly layered coffee and baking spices. There are earthy tones too, of leaf mulch and wet clay. The attractive nature of both varieties visible here. The palate is juicy and lush without relying on the sweet tones of oak or over-ripeness. Instead, it’s plump berries swimming in a pool of brisk acidity with a spice jar finish. Excellent value wine, which demonstrates the harmony in these blends. Drink now–2026 Richard Hamilton Burtons Vineyard Old Vine Grenache 2022 G 93 Red raspberry, persimmon and ripe figs. A heady mix of baking spices, nutmeg, clove and dusty cinnamon. Fig leaf, rosemary twig, and maple candy. It’s a cacophony of red fruits, autumn leaves and dried spice with oak playing a backseat to the primary fruit notes. Acidity is persistent and tannins are fine and silty. Succulence is at the heart of the Old Vine Grenache. Drink now–2028 S.C. Pannell Aglianico Aglianico 2021 G 93 Hauntingly aromatic, the wine opens with pitted cherries, beetroot juice and bramble. Hawthorn, mulberry and sage leaf. It leads with tannins and then acid as the southern native variety should; it loops around with chinchona bark and brown spices, nutmeg and cumin. Astute and curt, this will continue to age well. One of the top examples of this variety in this country. Drink now–2034 Silent Noise Cloudy but Fine Primitivo under flor 2023 G 93 A burst of purple hyacinth, grape soda and cassis dreams. Aleppo peppers, clove and chipotle. The inky colour alone is something to write home about, but this wine is more than just a wacky weekend idea. It captures the polarising intensity of Primitivo and places it in a space where under a veil of flor, the bitter notes of Brazil nut and crushed cocoa nibs add dimension and complexity. Tannins unfurl and the bitterness feels pleasing, like all good digestifs do. It’s an adventure in realms of the unknown, and I, for one, am totally into it. Bravo for doing life differently! Drink now–2029 The Old Faithful Pino’s Block Shiraz 2021 G 93 Fruit is sourced from Pino’s Block in McLaren Flat and matured for 24 months in oak puncheons. A peppery number with sansho, black peppercorns and juniper spice alongside runs of black cherries and a ribbon of red liquorice straps. There is a saltbush salinity with balsamic glaze, chinchona bark and cedar. Dried plums and a round rich palate. It’s distinctive in its pepper spice and plumpness of black fruit. Lasting impressions are made. Drink now–2028
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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