Oliver’s Taranga Fiano Fiano 2024
G 95
Alphonso mango skin, cantaloupe and lemon balm. Yellow peach and honeysuckle. A wealth of fruit weight with a tread of natural, elegant acidity. There is a creaminess of custard apple and lemon curd with a dry finish and salted peanut brittle note. The meaty nature of Fiano is captured here with the cascade of refreshing citrus pulp. It makes for enjoyable drinking on its own or could easily sit beside almost any entree or main course dish. This will get you obsessed with Fiano. Drink now–2028 Oliver’s Taranga Falanghina Falanghina 2024 G 95 The edible delights of Falanghina can be found here. A buffet fit for Pooh Bear. Blush peaches, apricot, Meyer lemon and jars of oozing honey. Cashew praline, honeysuckle blossoms and nectar. The palate rounds the corner with its U-turn of dryness and then explodes with candied pear, peach and dried mango. Swiftly followed by halva, roast almond butter and cumin. Excellent example of the variety grown by the sea and sun of McLaren Vale. Drink now–2027 Ox Hardy 1891 Ancestor Vine Shiraz 2015 G 95 Selected from a few special rows in the Ancestor vines planted in 1891 by Andrew’s great-grandfather. Matured for two years in seasoned barriques before release. Copper penny, dried goji and stewed figs. Adzuki bean, sumac spice and raspberry leaf. The wine feels as though it has been poured into its slinky dress of fine acidity and powdery tannins. A crunch still left in the redcurrants and cherry skin. There is cumin and grated nutmeg oak spice and a mellow, almost treacle-like bitterness. Flavour for days, reminiscing of years of yonder. This is what great age-worthy wine is all about. Drink now–2028 Paxton Quandong Farm Shiraz 2022 G 95 100% Single Vineyard Shiraz. Matured for 12 months in French oak. Top-of-the- tree mulberries and Bing cherries. Blood plums, lilac and mocha spice. The wine captures a sweet roasted beetroot note that lingers past its fresh acidity and pillowy tannins. A subtle touch of cassia bark and cedar. The fullness of middle palate is striking and charged. A wine with both richness and dexterity. Drink now–2028 Penny’s Hill Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 G 95 Matured for 16 months in French barriques. Small compact cabernet berries can be detected here. There is a hint of lilac and underbrush, Christmas cherries and plum skin. Kampot peppers, shiso and sage leaf. A wealth of fresh redcurrant acidity and fine lace of tannins. It’s dialled up in its rigour with a spice trail of sumac, paprika and poppy seed. Here, we see the McLaren Vale ardour with the cellar potential of a decade or so. Impressive stuff. Drink now–2032
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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